2007 XC70 (P2) - Excessive Vibrations Under Acceleration Topic is solved

cmayo1 · Post by **cmayo1** » 17 Dec 2025, 18:50

Went back and read my old posts and realized I posted about this a year ago. Two new wheel bearings, 3 engine mounts and tie rod ends later, back at the same front end shop.

One weekend (month) later from my last post, I took it to a front-end shop and they told me my passenger side control arm is junk and that my driver side is on it's way out. For one control arm it's about $700 w/o alignment and for both it's $1135.

I'm looking at videos online and this looks dummy easy, but I'm just a driveway mechanic. At the same time, I'm looking through these forums and finding that people have had a decent amount of trouble with it.
I really don't feel like spending a bunch of time out in the cold working on this, it's almost Christmas, but the vibrations are getting worse and it doesn't feel safe. At the same time, $1200 seems like I'm getting raked through the coals.

thoughts?

Post by **matthew1** » 17 Dec 2025, 19:17

DIY if you can. Suspension is one of the easier things I've done. It's just big, heavy, metal Lego pieces that need to fit where they go. There's a learning curve and it will suck in the cold. If you have an impact wrench it'll be easier.

cmayo1 · Post by **cmayo1** » 17 Dec 2025, 19:19

After reading through more posts on this blessed forum, I was reminded of the agony from siezed bolts I had experienced when doing front-end work on this thing and have decided I'm biting the bullet. It may cost me my pride to suck it up and pay for it, but it's saving my back, my knuckles, and most importantly, I'll be able to enjoy Christmas.

I'm still curious to what people would do in my situation, so lmk.

While it was there, they told me the drive shaft was spinning for the rear wheels but no power too 'em. I started noticing it felt more like the car was pulling itself rather than everything working in tandem. I assume (from my 4% knowledge of cars) the fluid was never changed before my ownership and maybe there's water in the fluid causing it to freeze up. It's been consistently below freezing (10° at night, 25-29° during the day) for probably the entire month of December so far, so it makes sense to me.

A project for another day

Cheers!

Post by **vtl** » 18 Dec 2025, 05:55

Get yourself an induction heater, there won't be such thing as frozen bolt anymore. As an owner of two Toyotas (rusty frames + might be grade 8 bolts) I can contest this tool is a must.

I pressed in/out LCA bushings a few times, only using a cheap Harbor Freight 12 ton press. New Lemforder LCAs are easier of course.

Post by **DavidE7** » 18 Dec 2025, 08:15

Removing the lower control arms is difficult the first couple times. Replacing the bushings is not easy unless you have a hydraulic press. Buying the 4 new bushings is much less expensive than any other option - get the OE Lemforder brand. Here are a couple pictures of how I pressed out the bushings using a friend's hydraulic press. The Harbor Freight press mentioned by VTL above would work similarly.

I used big sockets for pressing the bushings. The one bushing is in-line with the other so I used scraps of steel to get the press force around the joint that was in the way. The Vida instructions for this procedure are very detailed and helpful. Volvo has some small hydraulic press tools that are even easier to use than what I show in the pictures above.

Post by **vtl** » 18 Dec 2025, 08:18

I would also suggest to heat the LCA around the bushing up well, it will ease the removal. Heat it up again for installation. If a bew bushing was left in fridge overnight, the installation takes almost no effort.

cmayo1 · Post by **cmayo1** » 18 Dec 2025, 08:48

This is good advice for the future, I appreciate all of it!

Post by **jonesg** » 18 Dec 2025, 08:50

if it were me , at those prices ? I'm driving it the way it is until spring. As long as the ball joint isn't flapping around.
actually the next 3 days in northern Maine are going to be in the mid 40's to 50F.

Rear drive shaft is supposed to spin with the trans in D engine running,
nothing engages at the rear end until the haldex commands it. Mine hasn't worked for the last 8 years.
You can get a better idea with VIDA, mine has a code because I pulled the fuse but no CEL.

Post by **jonesg** » 18 Dec 2025, 09:01

For the control arms the only special tool I needed was an offset 17mm box end wrench to reach the nuts that are recessed in the subframe. Once the new arm was in position its difficult to pull it down so the balljoint can be seated in the knuckle,
for that I used a decent sized ratchet strap and winched it down.
If you can get the car high enough you can use an "S" hook to pull it down.

Post by **jonesg** » 18 Dec 2025, 09:07

vtl wrote: ↑18 Dec 2025, 05:55 Get yourself an induction heater, there won't be such thing as frozen bolt anymore.

which induction heater do you have, I've been after one for a while but most have bad reviews on amazon,
typical they work a few times then dead.

2007 XC70 (P2) - Excessive Vibrations Under Acceleration Topic is solved

Re: 2007 XC70 (P2) - Excessive Vibrations Under Acceleration