2004 S60 Oil Pan Removal & Low Oil Pressure warning light Topic is solved

[oragex]

I spoke with the mechanic and not good. Basically the mechanic has cleaned the oil pan (Very very heavy sludge) and cleaned the oil pump filter which had some buildup. He put it back together, used synthetic and after 20 minutes, the light went back on. He then reopened the oil pan, replaced the oil pump with OEM Volvo refilled synthetic and again the oil light went on, not good : ( (had him do the timing belt as the car has 105k).

Then the mechanic thought that the oil return channels from the Head may be clogged as it seems that the oil is getting to the head and slowly draining back down to the oil pan. He opened the head and said to that of the oil pan- sludge and caked on old oil. He cleaned all this out and checked the oil return channels which appear fine. The rod bearings seem to be fine as well as the valve heads. Started the car and again after 15 minutes the light went on. Note that upon initial cold start the car runs fine, there is no sound of valve chatter, the light does not go on... It is only after about 15 to 20 minutes that the light goes on and you can hear valve chatter when revving the engine. While idle this does not happen.

Any idea from the forum? The mechanic is top notch, excellent knowledge inside out, he is baffled.. so am I.

Unfortunately, from the histories on forums, once the sludge is there the rod bearings start to wear which causes the low oil pressure. Try perhaps a thicker oil at least ..W40 or even ..W50

[Erikinstockholm]

Update on my 2004 S60 with "Low Oil pressure" indicator light.

The mechanic who has been working on this problem is not able to come to a conclusion. Perhaps a fellow forum member can assist.

The mechanic is a high performance engine builder and very knowledgeable.
He has:
-Cleaned the sludge from the bottom of the oil pan (Very heavy deposits)..
-Replaced the Oil Pump and the Oil Pump filter screen.
-Removed the valve cover and cleaned the deposits checked the oil return channels (again heavy build up on valve cover).
-Checked the Turbo unit pressure lines and return lines and all clean
-Activated the variable valve timing to check for any change

The car starts cold fine and about 5 to 9 minutes in the light comes on and Valve Chatter.

Could it be the engine bearings, even if there is no unusual sounds during start up, idle and even after the oil pressure light comes on (except the valve chatter)?

Could it have bad lifters?

Do the O rings play such a crucial role? I am asking this as I have forgot to ask the mechanic if he has replaced them...

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[oragex]

Wait, tell me when the mechanic removed the oil pan he did check the rod bearings for clearance. He only had to push with his fingers on the rod ends. Did he check that?

Otherwise he's not a good mechanic.

If the bearings are shot, there is still s way to replace them without removing the engine. Not a perfect repair, but it can last and it's better than not having the car. There are videos on Youtube with people replacing the bearings with the engine in the car.

Also, you have to replace the PCV system right away. The sludge it's because it's clogged and that's what killed the rod bearings.

[precopster]

Im going back through this thread and the first mechanic stated he wanted to replace the o rings feeding the oil pump and pick-up pipe.

Once you have swapped mechanics the 2nd guy hasn't replaced the o rings (he's been concentrating on the sludge build-up) and as there are some very important reasons why he should have replaced these at the time, as this forum is full of Volvos with o ring problems.

As I stated earlier you have solid lifters not hydraulic so that's why you don't hear much valve clatter due to low oil pressure.

Revisit all the o rings including the pick up pipe one and I think you may solve this finally.

[oragex]

O-rings have been an issue especially with vehicles until early 2000's. From what I read on the forums, there were little issues with cars after 2002, and I haven't heard of many with the S60's. So it could be.

But what is sure, is that the sludge that builds up in the oil pan, gets inside the rod bearings and eats them. I've read of many people who replaced the o-rings (and even the oil pump), cleaned the sludge and still wondered why the oil pressure was still low.

One easy way to check the bearings is also to have the spark plugs removed, crank the engine by hand, and press down with a thin rod (preferably made of wood or plastic) to check each piston for free play just after the piston starts going down.

[precopster]

The o ring's design hasn't changed at all so why would their longevity? The same kit suits all whiteblocks up to 2007 in V70s and 2009 in S60s. The point I'm trying to make about the o rings is that if the pan were disturbed it would be prudent & ridiculously easy to replace them. They are not caught early enough on post 2000s until damage is done because of the lack of tappet noise when oil pressure is low (due to the non hydraulic design after 1999)

I agree with the rod bearings (and possibly main bearings as well) being part of the problem here but I would want to eliminate a $20 set of seals first before embarking on such a large repair. You don't just slide new rod bearings in even if it looks easy enough. You would want to take plastic guage measurements on all the conrod to crank clearances. In any case once the sump is re-opened all these items can be rechecked easily enough.

[oragex]

The o ring's design hasn't changed at all so why would their longevity? The same kit suits all whiteblocks up to 2007 in V70s and 2009 in S60s. The point I'm trying to make about the o rings is that if the pan were disturbed it would be prudent & ridiculously easy to replace them. They are not caught early enough on post 2000s until damage is done because of the lack of tappet noise when oil pressure is low (due to the non hydraulic design after 1999)

I agree with the rod bearings (and possibly main bearings as well) being part of the problem here but I would want to eliminate a $20 set of seals first before embarking on such a large repair. You don't just slide new rod bearings in even if it looks easy enough. You would want to take plastic guage measurements on all the conrod to crank clearances. In any case once the sump is re-opened all these items can be rechecked easily enough.

Just reading back, the only thing he doesn't mention is o-rings replacement. Was it done or not? PCV system oil drains were clear?

He says about checking the bearings, but there were metal fillings he found in the drained oil. It's not normal on any engine at this mileage, so were from?

[frothberg]

any news?? did you try thicker oil? new o rings?

[Markus]

Hi all,

I'm German so please apologize my poor english.
Although this thread is quite old I would like to add my findings on my wife's V70 2.4 MY2001 with the same issue. After going through all the recommended bits like oil pressure switch incl. wiring, cleaning oil sump, replacing o-rings I replaced the valve which is placed on top of the oil filter housing (oil sump side) and the issue was gone! If the valve stays open due to slush oil flows from the filter housing back into the oil sump.
Hope this finding helps people to fix there oil pressuire issue.

Markus

[oragex]

Hi all,

I'm German so please apologize my poor english.
Although this thread is quite old I would like to add my findings on my wife's V70 2.4 MY2001 with the same issue. After going through all the recommended bits like oil pressure switch incl. wiring, cleaning oil sump, replacing o-rings I replaced the valve which is placed on top of the oil filter housing (oil sump side) and the issue was gone! If the valve stays open due to slush oil flows from the filter housing back into the oil sump.
Hope this finding helps people to fix there oil pressuire issue.

Markus

Good to know, thanks for sharing