Serious front of engine oil leak '04 XC70

[jonesg]

Jellystone is spectacular. We are near Glacier, which is sometimes otherworldly.

Going to the sun road, been there.!

Hope you have a heated garage.
I spent the fall installing insulation in my little garage but im not interested in working in there unless the car has a winter emergency that can't wait.

Are you changing anything else in there, when I found oil on the timing belt I changed everything, water pump too. I wanted to know everything was new even though it wasn't due yet. I wanted a baseline as the car was new to me.

[BlackBart]

Yeah, what a place. Been hiking there since I was 20 and I'm still always amazed. Went up onto Sperry Glacier last year...wow.

No heat, attached garage. That is a long range project that keeps getting put off.....lessee...the roof, the bathroom, the painting, the new tree, the garden lighting..... Every car fixit seems to be a winter emergency around here! If I can get it up to 40 or 50 with heaters that isn't so bad. Cold tools are no fun. Breaking cold plastic is no fun. I sometimes wear cheap hardware store cotton gloves with the rubber dots. Low 20s today, above freezing tomorrow, so I may try it.

Yes, new TB and tensioners - they are new but oil-soaked now and I'm not happy with the off-brands the former mechanic was using. WP is brand new so I'll leave it. Putting in new turbo control vac hoses at the back of the head as long as I have that big hose off.

This engine is really grimy & dusty. My 850 is way cleaner. I don't think the previous owner lifted the hood, although they took it into the shop regularly, so I have good records.

[jonesg]

Yeah, what a place. Been hiking there since I was 20 and I'm still always amazed. Went up onto Sperry Glacier last year...wow.

No heat, attached garage. That is a long range project that keeps getting put off.....lessee...the roof, the bathroom, the painting, the new tree, the garden lighting..... Every car fixit seems to be a winter emergency around here! If I can get it up to 40 or 50 with heaters that isn't so bad. Cold tools are no fun. Breaking cold plastic is no fun. I sometimes wear cheap hardware store cotton gloves with the rubber dots. Low 20s today, above freezing tomorrow, so I may try it.

Yes, new TB and tensioners - they are new but oil-soaked now and I'm not happy with the off-brands the former mechanic was using. WP is brand new so I'll leave it. Putting in new turbo control vac hoses at the back of the head as long as I have that big hose off.

This engine is really grimy & dusty. My 850 is way cleaner. I don't think the previous owner lifted the hood, although they took it into the shop regularly, so I have good records.

A turbo boost gauge is a good addition to those hoses. Paid $55 for my little guage, the pod to house it was priced at $100 !
I glued the gauge to the pillar with a blob of goop instead. Were not too fussy up here on the redneck Riviera.

[BlackBart]

Were not too fussy up here on the redneck Riviera.

I thought that was the FL panhandle!

It was SEVEN degrees in my garage this morning....nope....nuh uh...

[BlackBart]

OK, going very slowly through various guides while fussing with my engine. Seeing the crank teeth / oil pump timing mark is very difficult. I think I have it pretty well centered, and the cam marks are right.

In F250s guide, the cam locking tool slots need to "be parallel to the line formed by the top half of the head meeting the bottom half" ...so, essentially parallel to the deck surface. With my timing marks aligned, my rear cam slots are NOT parallel to the deck plane. He makes a fuss over that, and then he says the tool should go right in, but "if necessary, use the cam locking tool for any minor cam rotational adjustments."

Then in this video linked earlier, they align their timing marks, paint mark the BACK of the cam wheels to the head, pull the timing belt, then install the locking tool. It shows right in the video where he tweaks the cam with a big screwdriver to align the slots.


So I'm leaning towards the video where, once the cam wheels are marked with paint, you can pull the TB and mess with the cams and it's OK?

[BlackBart]

Cam slots are rotated CCW towards the front of the car from being parallel to the head.

Timing marks are on. Back of cams have a paint dot at current position.
Is the point here to get timing aligned, mark the cam positions at the head, then the cams can get out of alignment just to get the tool on? I don't want to end up one tooth or maybe maybe many degrees off......

[BlackBart]

Welp, now I've done it.....

Putting the cam holder tool on....both guides say put this on good and tight, the cam bolt is 85 lb-ft, blah blah......I sheared off a bolt.....INSIDE the G-dam camshaft. I wasn't even cranking on it - one hand on a 3/8 ratchet is not "good and tight." The instant I felt it start to turn, BOOM, snapped right off. 18-19mm of bolt are missing, deep inside the camshaft.

So this bargain version is what, EWK brand? Never heard of it. Had I been thinking, or not trusting this tool, I would have gone down and bought hardened bolts for it.

So now this afternoon job turned into a damn mess - I'm assuming the top of the head comes off to get the cam bearing caps off, to somehow get a bolt extractor in there..........??


My day's going great, thanks for asking, how's yours?

[BlackBart]

18-19mm of bolt is missing. I'm curious about the markings on the bolt that didn't shear - was it starting to spin? Is it bottoming in the hole? Is the bolt too short and those are the only threads engaged? If only two or three threads, how was there enough torque to shear it off?

That Volvo shop video clearly shows him snugging it up tight with two hands. I'm assuming cheep Chinese soft steel bolts came with this tool. None of that matters really, it's how do I move forward? Drilling in that tight area seems really sketchy, and I doubt it would work. Pull the top of the head (which I was not prepared for), pull the cams, quality fastenal reverse drill bit at a machine shop? ($$) Replace the cam with a used / new one? ($$$)

Does removing the head and cams mean you start over setting up your cam timing and VVT?

I really wasn't planning on becoming educated on white block cylinder head assembly.......

[BlackBart]

The rest of the threads look unmarked, like that's as far as it reached. They have that soft black finish on them. The end of the bolt isn't marred, like it didn't bottom out (unless it's only the threads that bottom...?) They must be pretty soft steel.

Is it crazy to think a hand-held drill with a reverse bit could fit in there off the end of the exhaust cam and grab that thing? You don't want to ruin the threads inside.

[jonesg]

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The rest of the threads look unmarked, like that's as far as it reached. They have that soft black finish on them. The end of the bolt isn't marred, like it didn't bottom out (unless it's only the threads that bottom...?) They must be pretty soft steel.

Is it crazy to think a hand-held drill with a reverse bit could fit in there off the end of the exhaust cam and grab that thing? You don't want to ruin the threads inside.

Yeh, that should come right out, I've broken bolts like that and the tension is released when they snap. I've extracted them by spinning a pin, twirling the pin is more correct. Reverse drill bit might work too.

Try with a narrow flat blade screwdriver, it might have a ridge sticking up where it sheared.

Unless the threads crossed ...it should be loose .

If you opt for reverse drill, put a bushing around the drill shank to center it on the bolt. Brass or hardwood, to protect threads.

I wouldn't pull the cam unless all attempts failed.