Login Register

Drive shaft stuck extended out after control arm replacement

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Driveshaft Knuckle Came Out
Post Reply
condor
Posts: 7
Joined: 19 November 2008
Year and Model:
Location:

Volvo Repair Database Drive shaft stuck extended out after control arm replacement

Post by condor »

'05 XC70: After replacing my lower control arm on the passenger side the drive shaft seems to be stuck extended too far out from the joint within the inner boot. The inner boot is extended fairly far with the bellows extended quite a bit further than the how the bellows look on the outer boot. In doing the control arm, I had removed the two bolts that attached the strut to the knuckle in order to get as mush play as possible when wrestling the lower control arm and ball joint back together. I am assuming in that in the process of wrestling the control arm and ball joint bolt to align, without the knuckle being attached to the strut, I inadvertently angled the knuckle too far past the travel limit of the inner joint on the drive shaft. I have tried various angles of the control arm height (with the assistance of a jack) and steering linkage, while also jiggling the rotor around, to see if I could get the drive shaft to align and slide back in. No luck.

I don’t know how the inner joint is configured, so I’m working blind on how to expect it to line up and contract again underneath the boot.

Any suggests are much appreciated.


In the mean time, I’m going to detach the outer tie rod from the knuckle to see if having that extra play with the knuckle will help. I’m doubtful as I should be able to get the right angle with the steering linkage attached, but maybe.

From there I guess it would be remove the right drive axle and either get it to align and reinstall, have it repaired or replace it if I somehow totally ruined it, or if the $130 part from IPD is cheaper than a repair anyway.

What a PIA I’ve made for myself on what I thought was going to be a couple of hour job!
'05 XC70

JimBee
Posts: 1915
Joined: 9 December 2008
Year and Model: 93 and 2 96 850's
Location: Minneapolis
Has thanked: 25 times
Been thanked: 42 times

Post by JimBee »

If you have a few days leeway, you might want to order a boot and grease kit from FCPGroton. Cut the old boot off and remove the bands that hold its ends. Then you'll see how it's put together. My 850 had a split boot so I did this. Mine has a circlip that holds the inner part of the shaft into the "roller joint". It's hard to imagine you pulled that apart, but if so, the axel is splined and I assume you could slip it back together. While you're in there, of course, you'd want to flush and repack the joint before replacing the boot. Then you'll have a rebuilt axel that should last like a new one (assuming you don't find the "shell" in which the balls roll around to be scored). I think cost around $12.00 Good luck.

gjz30075
Posts: 57
Joined: 7 September 2007
Year and Model:
Location:

Post by gjz30075 »

Thought I'd bring up this old post because I, too , had this problem on the rh side trying to replace the control arm. I cut the boot circlips and pulled the boot back to see why the joint wouldn't go back to together. It's an incredibly simply joint and it looked like I just had to wrestle it back in. Jacking up the strut was near impossible because there's nothing to guide it straight up and the pressure from the spring is pushing it down. So I compressed the spring using external spring compressors enough to wrestle the hub and axle up and with my third hand :-) I managed to rotate the axle enough to push it back in the joint. I then quickly attached the control arm to keep it in place.
Greg Z

'97 850 wagon

User avatar
matthew1
Site Admin
Posts: 14463
Joined: 14 September 2002
Year and Model: 850 T5, 1997
Location: Denver, Colorado, US
Has thanked: 2652 times
Been thanked: 1240 times
Contact:

Post by matthew1 »

Thanks for this input, Greg.

When I did my control arms I was worried about the joints getting pushed out from the force of the spring. When the control arm comes off there's little holding (or nothing, depending how much you've detached) the joint in, and we all know the springs push hard. For what it's worth to everyone out there, they push far, too.

I used both your method of spring compressors and a jack stand under the wheel hub/rotor to prevent this.
Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.

Also -> Amazon link
. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!

1998 V70, no dash lights on

1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace

2004 V70 R [gone]

How to Thank someone for their post

Image

Jonnyt
Posts: 3
Joined: 18 June 2006
Year and Model:
Location: Luton

Post by Jonnyt »

Oh if only I'd read this yesterday morning!!!

I've got a V70 2003 and doing the driver's side (driver's right side of the car) the joint at the end of the drive shaft has come out of the CV joint at the gearbox end. It wasn't any sort of spectacular failure so am pretty sure that there isn't a circlip that I've broken, but could someone just confirm whether there is a circlip preventing the shaft from coming out of the joint?

If there isn't it should just slide back - easy.....

ed7
Posts: 207
Joined: 3 September 2010
Year and Model: V70XC 2005, 2001
Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
Has thanked: 2 times

Post by ed7 »

The circlip should be on the shaft. You should have resistance refitting the shaft to the joint.
A minor wrap with a dead blow mallet should do the trick.
Ed

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post