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2006 XC70 IPOD connector install

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive "P2" platform cars.

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scot850
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2006 XC70 IPOD connector install

Post by scot850 » Sat Jan 23, 2016 7:48 am

I am not an electrical whizz, but I can do most things electrical on a car, but the one thing I need help with is figuring out wire sizes.

I have 2 wires that need to spliced into the existing radio wiring harness, and I'd rather not damage the exiting wires too much. After some research I have found many recommendations for Posi-lock connectors that push a pin through the wire. They appear very highly rated, but I need to figure out what size(s) I may need.

From the UK originally, where most of the automotive wiring I bought was (almost) idiot proofed with a current rating and not a wire gauge.

Is there a simple method to figuring out wire gauges for dummies? The main issue for me is that the existing wires I am connecting to are of a larger diameter, so I will need a 'reducer' version to work. Otherwise the install is fairly simple.

http://www.posi-products.com/

This is the I-pod/auxiliary connector unit I am using:

https://www.usaspec.com/p-346-pa11-vol.aspx

Neil.
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - New project and test bed - Sold

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JudgeRat
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Re: 2006 XC70 IPOD connector install

Post by JudgeRat » Sat Jan 23, 2016 11:05 am

Okay, so I'm not real thrilled that you have to tap the lines (the best designs I've seen in the past actually have connectors that let you connect directly between the radio head unit and the harness with a "plug and play" sort of set up), but you should still be okay using the taps as long as you are careful.

Voltage is your constant; most auto electrical systems use some combination of 5V or 7.5V or 12V to feed various systems. The thing to know when working electrical systems is the general rule that the larger the wire, the lower the resistance and therefore the higher the amperage. Adding a new unit inline is going to increase your load on that particular circuit, so one of the biggest concerns will be not increasing the load (amperage mainly) beyond the tolerance of the fuse that protects that circuit or you will be blowing fuses all of the time. The other, and worse concern, is if the load isn't high enough for the fuse to blow, but the wire is so small that the resistance is too high for the amperage that is running through it. At that point, you have a dangerous situation where the itty-bitty wire overheats, doesn't blow the fuse, and, viola, you have an instant car fire.

I don't think you should have to worry about that last issue, though, (and hopefully not even the first issue) since it looks like they specifically designed the unit you purchased for a Volvo (hopefully specifically for your model), and that's a good thing. It's also probably safe to assume that they designed it with wires rated to handle the expected load (but just because I'm paranoid, doesn't mean they're not out to get me :lol: ). If you are as anal...um, detail oriented...as I am about such things, it would still be a good idea to use a meter to measure the readings of the new unit, get the numbers for the existing circuit from the vehicle's wiring diagram, and then do some quick calculations to ensure you don't exceed tolerances with the new circuit.

I'd be interested in seeing how well this works for you; I've been thinking that I would eventually get around to adding an iPhone connection to my little beastie if I ever get my mechanical issues resolved satisfactorily. Good luck with this, and let us know how it turns out.
"Molly" - Black 2004 2.4L i5 (non-turbo) T5 Auto FWD P2 Volvo s60 w/all options

Old-school race guy: "Brakes 1st, then steering, tires, wheels, & suspension, only then engine and drive-train. No sense making it go if you can't stop & steer properly...Safety first people!"

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Re: 2006 XC70 IPOD connector install

Post by JRL » Sat Jan 23, 2016 2:22 pm

You don't tap any lines, all you need is one hot wire
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.

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scot850
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Re: 2006 XC70 IPOD connector install

Post by scot850 » Sat Jan 23, 2016 3:18 pm

This needs to tap the wires as it works with the buttons on your steering wheel and the radio presets to control the I-pod. Not sure if it will work with an Android device, but we will find out in due course.

I'll update as and when I get to this.

Still looking for guidance on how to identify wire gauges so I can figure out the correct sizing of the Posi-locks. Note the Posi-locks are rated for aircraft use, and also motor-cycle use for harsh environments. Advantage is if you need to remove it you have only punctured a small hole in the wire and this can be easily covered with a small amount of tape.

Neil.
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - New project and test bed - Sold

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Re: 2006 XC70 IPOD connector install

Post by sparky65 » Sat Jan 23, 2016 8:13 pm

Current draw on the steering wheel controls is going to negligible. These are just control lines and will not be carrying anything but a small current for very short periods of time. I would say that 22AWG will be more than sufficient. But, I'd actually recommend not cutting into your harnesses at all. Get the appropriate pigtail for your installation and keep your harnesses original. As far as higher amperage power supply is concerned, you have to select your gauge as well as fuse size based on amperage requirement and length on the run. Don't forget that the ground wiring either, that's your return path and is as important as the supply. And one more thing, Posi-locks are not rated for aircraft use regardless of what the sales pitch says.

scot850
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Re: 2006 XC70 IPOD connector install

Post by scot850 » Sat Jan 23, 2016 11:18 pm

What do you mean about getting the appropriate pig-tail? Where do you go to get that? The supplier of the unit doesn't supply it.

I did consider trying to remove the 2 appropriate pins, and join the wires there, but from experience that usually ends up with a broken connector.

There are only 2 wires to connect on this install. 1 as you guys have mentioned that goes to either the radio ground or vehicle ground, and the other 2 the battery B+ wire. So technically, if I can find a suitable nearby ground I only need to find a way of connecting to the B+ cable.

Neil.
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - New project and test bed - Sold

sparky65
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Re: 2006 XC70 IPOD connector install

Post by sparky65 » Sat Jan 23, 2016 11:51 pm

To pick up +12VDC without cutting into your wiring, a fuse tap is probably the way to go. http://www.wirthco.com/fuse-related-acc ... -l-en.html
Yes, should be ok to use an existing screw or bolt for the ground.

scot850
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Re: 2006 XC70 IPOD connector install

Post by scot850 » Sun Jan 24, 2016 12:32 pm

Thanks for the help. For future info, it may be worth looking at these 2 similar youtube videos for install. 1 is for S60, the other is an IPD for a P2 with a variation for -04 and the other for 04-.






While I don't necessarily agree to how this was done, they are similar, and the IPD version is more helpful as it identifies there is an earth connector screw that can be utilised on the rear of the radio casing.

That just leaves to B+ connection and I am going to copy the IPD method of using a Posi-tap connector. This will be the least intrusive and easy for me.

Thanks for the advice sparky65. Appreciate this is not the perfect way as you would like. but I am going with the best for my abilities.

The unit I am using is the USASPEC PA11-VOL for future reference, and was removed from a 06 XC70, which is what I am installing it into.
I may have to extend the 2 wires that have to be connected, as they look a little short, but I will be soldering them and heat-shrink cover the joins.

Neil.
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - New project and test bed - Sold

scot850
Posts: 5672
Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2010 2:46 pm
Year and Model: 2000 V70 R
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scot850

Re: 2006 XC70 IPOD connector install

Post by scot850 » Tue Feb 16, 2016 5:04 pm

As promised I have finally installed the USA Spec PA11-VOL iPod/AUX unit into our 06 XC70 as I have been promising my son for over 6 months!

I used the 2 videos linked above as guides and they are very useful, but I will add a few points that may be of further help.

The first issue is to disconnect the battery after chocking the wheels and putting the shift leaver in 'N'. Also put the passenger seat all the way back before disconnecting the battery.

The main reason for this is that the job can take longer than it would appear in the videos, but also you can't remove the key unless someone can tell me how when the shift lever is not in 'P'.

So disconnect the -ve battery cable. Our 06 does not have a RADIO CODE, but CHECK if your car does before starting!!!

I used a quarter coin to remove the 'screw' at the rear of the side plate in the passenger foot-well. See video.

Once the screw has been turned 90 degrees CCW you can slide the lower trim piece to the rear of the car by about 0.5" to release it.

Remove the gear shift surround as per the video. What the video does not show is that in our car, Volvo as usual have added an un-necessary complexity of cable tying 2 cables to a plastic extension on the PS of the underside of the shift lever surround. This prevented my from being able to move the surround back enough to access the 2 screws (Torx) for the radio and A/C unit to be removed, and the unit then to have the lower edge pulled straight backwards and up to release the upper edge.

So carefully cut the cable tie and have a small one to replace when finished.

Otherwise the process is as per the videos.

I fed the wire for the power connections to the radio from above down the side of the centre console into the passenger foot-well.

I used a Posi-tie for the +ve connection and connected the -ve to the ground on the rear of the radio unit.

I removed the cup-holder from beside the parking brake lever (open the centre console cubby cover, remove the crap, and push gently in on the lower back edge of the cup holder assembly to release it).

I drilled a 12mm (0.5") hole in the RH front corner of the console base under the cup holder to allow me to fish the AUX cable up into the console as my son will mainly use that with his Android phone/music. I also drilled another hole in the back edge of the cup-holder assembly to feed the AUX connector through that into the cubby. I used rubber grommets at each hole to prevent the wire chaffing if pulled.

I fed the iPod connector up through the front of the centre console using a metal wire from the front LH side of the glove box to leave the cable hidden there.

As per the video, I was able to hide the cables under the side of the carpet on the passenger side of the console, and the unit I placed just in front of the air outlet as advised in the video.

When setting the unit up, if you are only using for iPod then there are 2 little sliders on the control unit. #1 and #2 should both be in the OFF position and if you want to use the AUX cable, then #1 is OFF and #2 is ON.

The booklet gave a good description of this.

A major point to note: When I connected our 4th gen iPod nano's to the iPod connection the screen on the iPods both said the unit is not compatible with the iPod nano's for charging. I spoke to USA SPEC to a very helpful guy called Victor, and we walked through trying to re-boot the iPod's to see if this would fix it, but I noticed that the green battery charge icon on the iPod did actually show it was charging in-spite of the screen message.

Have to say the install was straight forward, and the unit sounds great, and much better than the old FM modulator. If you like using the iPod/iPhone then the great part is you can control them from the steering wheel controls.

Hope this is of help.

Neil.
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - New project and test bed - Sold

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