What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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abscate
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Re: What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

Post by abscate »

Use the heat, Luke. Save the Force for the Death Star
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gnalan
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Post by gnalan »

- Pete - wrote: Wed Dec 30, 2020 10:46 am An old mechanic once showed me how to use an air hammer on the side of the caliper casting while simultaneously using a box wrench on the bleeder. Someone posted a video of it somewhere a while ago also.
An air hammer? Is that to help clean any crud out of the threads while loosening the bleeder, or to help remove air from the bleeder after cracking it open?
2001 S60, B5244S, AW-55/50, FWD
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Post by volvolugnut »

The vibration from the air hammer may help to loosen the bleeder. Similar to an ultrasonic cleaner loosening dirt.
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2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple parts cars.

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Post by - Pete - »



This is the concept.
2001 V70XC 167k
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ndphotonl
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Post by ndphotonl »

Nice tip!

I was finally able to replace the rear lowering shocks (Vogtland) on my S80. I already tried before and failed, as I was unable to get the original spring out. Finally saw a video on Youtube where they disconnected the trailing arm on 1 side and decided to try that. That worked, but aligning the bolt with the bushing was an absolute nightmare.

But Im very happy that they are fitted as the rear is lowered a bit (havent measured) and the driving characteristics have improved and tie in with the front now.

ImageVolvo S80 2.4T Vogtland Rear Lowering Springs by Andy Ramdin, on Flickr

ImageVolvo S80 2.4T Vogtland Rear Lowering Springs by Andy Ramdin, on Flickr
Volvo S80 2.4T Wasa Limited Edition (+-230-240BHP)
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Post by ndphotonl »

Replaced the high beams with new LEDs. The old ones were from NightEye (right) and the new ones from Bullvision (left). They are a lot brighter and look like better quality.

ImageVolvo S80 2.4T H7 LED by Andy Ramdin, on Flickr
Volvo S80 2.4T Wasa Limited Edition (+-230-240BHP)
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Post by ndphotonl »

Also treated the S80 to some suspension mods, Ultra Racing strut bars. Highly recommended!

More pics here: viewtopic.php?f=11&t=96239

ImageVolvo S80 2.4T Ultra Racing Strut Bars Front Rear Upper by Andy Ramdin, on Flickr

ImageVolvo S80 2.4T Ultra Racing Strut Bars Front Rear Upper by Andy Ramdin, on Flickr
Volvo S80 2.4T Wasa Limited Edition (+-230-240BHP)
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Post by csh »

Today I glued my driver's side mirror back on...for the second time.

Last time I think I used a spray adhesive, but it seems to not have done well with weather and temperature changes. This time I used Gorilla heavy duty construction adhesive.

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Post by MoVolvos »

ndphotonl wrote: Thu Jan 07, 2021 6:37 am Replaced the high beams with new LEDs. The old ones were from NightEye (right) and the new ones from Bullvision (left). They are a lot brighter and look like better quality.

ImageVolvo S80 2.4T H7 LED by Andy Ramdin, on Flickr
*

Have gone through over half a dozen LED's on two cars. Gave up on one as it just never last so gone back to Halogens for now. The best was the first set and it had the heatsink rather than the fan.

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Blessings,

BKM


2003 S80 T6
2008 C30 T5

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Post by MoVolvos »

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Hi, the little P1 wanted to show the P2 big boys something that might work for them also.

Bought some less than $30 eBay Angel Eyes and thought we could just attach it to the front of Bi-Xenon lens assembly and reinstall. It was too thick and pushed the front round cover off so we decided to attach it to the front of the cover instead. Was debating on the oven or heat gun. Decided to give the heat gun a try as preheating the oven would take too long and we felt there maybe more control of the heat even though the oven would have better even heat distribution.

It took less than 10 minute but it really did seemed like a lot less time. Sat the headlight assembly on a microfiber towel and slowly rotated it around while heating at 750 degrees from about 1.5 inches away. Son held the temp gun to check the temp rise around the heated areas. At around 170 to 180 degrees we decide to pry it open and it worked.

Use a putty knife first, butter knife second then the two Volvo bone tools and lastly a flat head to keep the areas opened from closing. No where close to how difficult we thought it would be. After opening we used bared fingers to push the sealant back into the groove. When closing up we just press the lens back on, reheat and pressed till the 4 clip could be reattached. We did continue to heat the sides and further press the edges of the lens face down on the table with a microfiber for a couple of minute to make sure the assembly was fully seated.

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We tried several different light settings on the camera. It is really bright.

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Blessings,

BKM


2003 S80 T6
2008 C30 T5

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