New Volvo Owner/Project

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

Post Reply
Kurica
Posts: 10
Joined: Sun Jan 15, 2017 6:35 pm
Year and Model: 2002 s60
Location: Portugal

Re: New Volvo Owner/Project

Post by Kurica »

your doing great, your bigest problem will be nuts and bolts!! lol pm if you need help
dont aply torque to the cams whit that tool, only for belt assembly :) and try to get a gap so you can gat a M7 screw trought it and get it nice and stable, here how i did it, the straps are to flip the cover and hv the cams in place.

Image
Image

good luck

abj1
Posts: 19
Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2017 5:39 pm
Year and Model: 2001 V70XC 2.4T
Location: NW Colorado

Post by abj1 »

Thanks for the replay Kurica,

Yes, nuts and bolts is definitely a concern. the car came with a whole bucket of them! I'm also worried about the misc hoses. I've done projects like this before, but this is the first time putting something together that I didn't disassemble myself. Thanks for your offer of help, I'll probably need it!

As far as the cam holding tool, I did trim the tabs that actually go into the cam grooves so they don't "bottom out" against the cam. Also, I did get some proper fitting bolts to hold the tool in place. The ones you see in the picture were there to hold the tool in place to test fit.

I can't see your pictures?

precopster
Posts: 7484
Joined: Sat Aug 21, 2010 12:20 am
Year and Model: Lots
Location: Melbourne Australia
Has thanked: 4 times
Been thanked: 113 times

Post by precopster »

Great work!! I just completed a long term 2001 XC70 project: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=54590&p=428860#p428860 Some of the info here may help.

Count on doing the PCV system as a matter of course. The parts for the PCV are not too expensive (check IPD's site) and do make sure you clean out the ports in the block VERY carefully or else you'll be blowing out those nice new seals in no time. The question mark shaped hose at the rear of the head (actually it's part of the PCV system) can be replaced with water hose and an internal spring of 8mm diameter to stop it from kinking. That saves over $80 on that part of the PCV system. Also if you happen to break the small plastic pipe going to the banjo bolt you can use a Volvo S80 from a 1998 to 2001 part in place of that for about $30.

The 42 X 7mm bolts for the cam holder are 35mm long (excluding the 10mm head) and so are the 2 water pipe bolts at the rear of the head.


Wouldn't it be great if mechanics just placed bolts back in their respective threads so the next guy could stop scratching their head? :D
Current cars:2002 XC70, 2006 Ssangyong Rodius (Stavic), 2006 XC90 2.5T, VW Transporter 2.5TDI

www.precisioncarmodules.com.

Kurica
Posts: 10
Joined: Sun Jan 15, 2017 6:35 pm
Year and Model: 2002 s60
Location: Portugal

Post by Kurica »

srry about the pics, new in the posting thing, ill leave the imgur linksi guess


i used some aluminium from a lader that was to big so it doesnt scratch the cams cover.
is your head dead for real? only asking because its probably the first time that is being lifted and the scratch cant be that deep, or is it? cause 0,30 mm is not bad and compression is a awesome thing if u dont have right foot disease :P

abj1
Posts: 19
Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2017 5:39 pm
Year and Model: 2001 V70XC 2.4T
Location: NW Colorado

Post by abj1 »

Got a Present from Fedex today.

I have to say the head from Clearwater Cylinder Heads looks great. I didn't have much time to work today, but I took advantage of a helper who was around to help me lift the head onto the block. The engine was disassembled already so all I had to do was clean the top surface of the block, install the cylinder head gasket then lift the head onto the block. Last step is to torque it down in sequence (both in bolt order and torque value). This was an easy process. The hardest part was taking the time to properly clean the block surface. This job is long, slow, and boring, but it is a VERY important job! No shortcuts here or the whole project can be ruined.
Attachments
20170207_205101[1].jpg
20170207_205108[1].jpg
20170207_205116[1].jpg
20170207_205124[1].jpg
20170207_211931[1].jpg

jenkinskg
Posts: 235
Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2015 9:24 pm
Year and Model: 04 c70 hpt 98 s70 xc
Location: United States
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 1 time

Post by jenkinskg »

When I get done with current project, I will have an 02 head, with bent valves to sell, cheap
and could lend out my cam timing kit
2004 c70 2.3HPT, s60 2.5T

abj1
Posts: 19
Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2017 5:39 pm
Year and Model: 2001 V70XC 2.4T
Location: NW Colorado

Post by abj1 »

IT"S ALIVE!!


After many hours of figuring out exhaust and turbo, intake and all associated parts, and getting the timing belt on and timed. I gave it a go...
Got most everything back together (I left the upper engine mount and strut brace off) and gave it a try. The engine started up right away on the first crank! the engine runs very smooth and quiet, The ticking fuel injectors are by far the loudest part of the engine. I was excited to button things back together and give the car it's first test drive, but I noticed a problem. No check engine lights or other warning lights!


I NEED HELP?


I noticed a very substantial coolant leak coming from the front of the engine. It's very hard to trace where it's coming from. I checked the coolant line next to the exhaust manifold on the back of the engine and although I can't really see directly below the flange, it's looked and felt dry. I also made sure the coolant drain on the back of the engine was closed. The more I looked at it, the more it looked like It came from the water pump. I torqued the water pump bolts down a little more (none really seemed loose) and the leak seemed to slow down some, but that could be my imagination. I drained the coolant and removed the water pump to inspect it. From what I can tell the water pump and gasket looks fine.

I plan on getting a new water pump gasket tomorrow when the auto parts store opens and see if that fixes the leak, but evidence is lacking and a water pump gasket is simply and guess at this point


Does anybody know of any other possible coolant leak spots around the water pump area? What else should I be checking?

Thank you,

abj1
Posts: 19
Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2017 5:39 pm
Year and Model: 2001 V70XC 2.4T
Location: NW Colorado

Post by abj1 »

I have decided to replace the water pump and gasket. It couldn't hurt to have it replaced anyway.

I do have another question, The only other place I can see that coolant might be leaking from is the coolant pipe that bolts to the head (just on the passenger side of the exhaust manifold). It is very difficult to get at the two bolts for this flange or even see the flange itself. I was wondering if I removed the inner timing cover, could I get better access (and line of sight) to that flange? Is it diffucult to remove the inner timing cover? I already have the timing belt off.

Thanks again,

jonesg
Posts: 1245
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2008 3:25 pm
Year and Model: 2004 V70
Location: Northern maine.
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 47 times

Post by jonesg »

The water pump bolts require sealant on the threads as they pass thru the water galley, at least of them do.
Removing and reinstalling would probably allow a leak along the threads.

abj1
Posts: 19
Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2017 5:39 pm
Year and Model: 2001 V70XC 2.4T
Location: NW Colorado

Post by abj1 »

Coolant leak is fixed!

I removed the inner timing cover and was able to see the coolant pipe in question for the first time. It was clear immediately that the hard coolant line was the problem. I mistakenly used a bolt that was too long on that flange. Because I couldn't see it, I tightened the bolt until tight. What I didn't realize was that I was tightening against the end of the threaded hole and not against the flange. I removed the bolt and replaced it with a shorter bolt, and that stopped the leak.

I got the last few odds and ends done and took the car on it's 1st test drive. The engine was running smoothly and quietly. I did notice a few concerning potential issues.

1st. The car is letting out a white-ish colored smoke from the tailpipe. At first I didn't think much of it because it's cold here (18F) and it's normal for cars to have visible exhaust when cold. Also, because the car hasn't been run in over a month and had the engine open for most of that time, I figured that some residual moisture/oil/grease on engine parts had to "burn-out". After my short 15min test drive, I still had more visible exhaust smoke then I would expect.

2nd After 10min of running I got a check engine light for a P0014 code, which i understand to be the VVT timing being too far advanced. How much off could this be? I certantly did mess with the VVT and am not shocked to see this code. I'm guessing it's not very far off as the car was running very smoothly.

3rd. The car had trouble staying at operating temp. It would warm up at idle (never above the 1/2 way point, but cooled down when driving. I would suspect a faulty thermostat, but may be related to above issues?

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post