2006 Volvo XC70 blown turbo repair symptoms

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bikerbob951
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Year and Model: 2006 XC70
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2006 Volvo XC70 blown turbo repair symptoms

Post by bikerbob951 »

2006 Volvo XC70, 114K miles. Recently did a full PCV replacement, including dropping the oil sump and cleaning the drain. About 500 miles later, merging on the highway, loud pop and the car falls on it's face, loses power. Car continues to drive at highway speeds as long as no engine load was present, and no CEL. Less than a mile later, huge smoke clouds behind me, suspected blown turbo. I could hear metallic rattling in the exhaust at idle that would get worse with higher RPM, and the dreaded dentist drill noise.

So, I've replaced the turbo cartridge upon seeing that it was indeed very blown, I've removed both the oil supply and drain pipes and cleaned them, changed the oil, and started the car. Large puff of oily smoke from exhaust upon initial start, that went away after about 2 minutes of idling. Took the car gingerly through the neighborhood, no smoke, running very smoothly, no turbo noise... the moment I get near anything resembling acceleration, the car dramatically loses power and big blue smoke again. Will stumble and barely run for about 45 seconds and then will slowly return to normal, allowing for fairly normal 25mph neighborhood driving. But every time I go anywhere near any engine load, it stumbles and smokes and barely runs. Turbo sounds fine, no abnormal engine noises, no leaks.

My questions are as follows:
1. Do these cars have a "limp mode"? I.E. a self-conservation mode that will pull timing and boost if it senses a dangerous condition? If so, should I reset the ECU somehow, and how should I do that?
2. Do I need to remove intake parts like the intercooler and pipes, and drain oil or clean them? The more I think about it, I'm wondering if oil is settling in low spots and allowing the car to drive normally, but then when air volume increases, it brings oil from the intercooler into the engine.
2A. If I do need to remove the intercooler, what is the best method? I've tried researching and I'm not finding anything specific to this generation of XC70.

Thanks in advance for any help, vastly appreciated!
Last edited by matthew1 on Mon May 15, 2017 6:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Edited title - please no "help" or exclamation marks

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Botbasher
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Post by Botbasher »

Was the compressor side of the turbo damaged?? Was the bearing damaged allowing oil to enter the intake? Unless you had oil in there previous, an un damaged intake side shouldn't have added oil. The smoke is most likely from the exhaust/turbine side.

Lack of CEL is odd, but you could have plugged the cat or a damaged O2 sensor causing issues when the car comes out of closed loop (fixed value).

You can watch the O2 values in VIDA if you have it. Are you getting good flow out of the exhaust? You could disconnect the down pipe and try a drive to set of that improves it.

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bikerbob951
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Post by bikerbob951 »

I left the exhaust turbine housing on the car and just removed the CHRA + Compressor housing. When I removed the air inlet from the compressor housing, about 6oz of oil spilled out, and the entire compressor side was filled with another untold amount of oil when I removed it.

I've had an intermittent O2 sensor code before, I believe it was the primary.

I don't have VIDA, but I do have a bluetooth OBDII reader that works quite well, I'll watch for O2 values.

I've had a car with a plugged cat before, and this doesn't feel nearly as sluggish. At an unloaded, cruising-thru-the-neighborhood speed, there is no smoke and the car runs totally normally. I'll try an ECU reset tonight, and I'll check the hoses for oil again. Problem with the exhaust, and the main reason I left the housing in place, the bolts for the manifold-to-block and housing-to-down pipe are completely frozen and seemed like they might break, which would be a nightmare.

jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

Had the same trouble last yr but once the new turbo core cartridge was installed it ran clean.
I don't see how oil on the inlet side of the turbo could put oil in the exhaust.?
It would compress and cycle back to the intake intercooler.
Or are you saying its passing through the combustion chambers, a look at the plugs might shed some light. If so, then its just a cleanup job.

If the seals inside the turbo are bad it would blow white smoke too ...uh.. steam.
Mine would blow blue smoke, then white....and rattle like a can of bolts.

Oil would need to pass from inside the turbo oil galley to the exh downpipe if at all. But I wouldn't go there first.

I removed my downpipe, nothing to see there, nowhere for oil to pool. Access isn't too bad if you snap a stud off but I wouldn't bother.
I'd be inclined to look at the O2 sensor as Botbasher said.

Limp mode reset itself once I shut the car off. Never had to reset it once turbo was fixed, mine is 2004 V70.

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Post by abscate »

Bob...these cars do have limp mode and the ECU quickly turns down boost if it doesn't like its readings.

The intercooler has a tiny weep hole in the bottom to drain water, oil, dead pets.

Drop the plastic engine cover and see if it's coated with wet oil ( bad) or just a film of dirt ( good)
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bikerbob951
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Post by bikerbob951 »

Thanks everybody for the helpful posts!

I removed the IC to TB hose last night, there was about 4oz of oil sitting in the low spot of the hose. After dumping that out, I decided to check a spark plug, it was pretty gross. It was wet with oil, and looks pretty awful for only having about 20K miles on these plugs.
Image

Took it for a drive around the block, and it has definitely improved. Runs almost completely normally until about 80% throttle, then it does the stumbling blue smoke routine as before, for about 30 seconds before coming back to life. The smoke isn't as severe as before, but it's still there. Sitting in the driveway after about 20 minutes of driving, it seemed to rev up and down cleanly.

O2 sensors appeared to be working normally, was making positive boost pressure until it would stumble, so I'm thinking more intake cleaning is needed? Should I replace these plugs? I'm thinking that under WOT remaining oil is getting ingested and temporarily fouling the plugs.

Also, this intercooler weep hole is intriguing, does it weep on it's own or is there something I need to do to help it drain? I'd really like to avoid tearing into the front fascia for the IC.

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Post by jonesg »

I ran Cat cleaner through mine after getting all the oil cleaned up.
Anyway, looks like you solved it....til the next thing breaks. :)

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Post by chrism »

bikerbob,

When you replace the plugs, use the standard copper core plugs with the full size center electrode rather than those with the little pointy electrode. Either Volvo labeled (somewhat pricey) or NGK BKR6ES (dirt cheap but work wonderfully) will give you less fits. I believe there is a Bosch equivalent but I don't know the number off hand. The plug in your photo is not the Volvo OE type.

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Post by mrbrian200 »

chrism wrote: Fri May 12, 2017 11:35 am ...rather than those with the little pointy electrode.
Are you referring to the Bosch FR7DPP+ or something else?

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Post by chrism »

Forget what I said about pointy tip spark plugs. In searching the web I realize I must be living in the dark ages. Even Volvo OE has gone that route.

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