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AW55-50SN woes-easy to repair? Topic is solved

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precopster
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Re: AW55-50SN woes-easy to repair?

Post by precopster » Thu Sep 28, 2017 11:55 pm

I bought that manual 4 years ago. As far as good close-up exploded diagrams it wasn't worth the money.

If you follow Hirram's video you can see that splitting the case is quite easy though I'm not sure whether it will split BEFORE you remove what he as in the video


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Re: AW55-50SN woes-easy to repair?

Post by mrbrian200 » Fri Sep 29, 2017 12:12 am

Perfect pictures Nautic. I'm becoming more convinced that if the only problem is particulate matter restricting flow through the screen pulling the trans might be unnecessary. Tapping a hole right underneath the pickup and back flushing the filter (probably more than once in OPs case) might very well restore trans function/proper pressure from the pump.
The rest of us might think to do this any time we do a drain and fill.

These aren't organic particles suspended in water or combustion deposits that would be sticky. You just need a way to get the junk out of there when you backflush with pressure through the cooler line. The shape of that area at the bottom of the case even makes sort pocket/funnel to direct the fluid and junk out of the hole (if there were one there).



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Re: AW55-50SN woes-easy to repair?

Post by 01_Nautic_V70 » Fri Sep 29, 2017 2:45 am

cuhfs wrote:
Thu Sep 28, 2017 9:26 pm
How difficult is it to split the housing and remove the pump? Can you estimate how long to do once trans is out? Sorry for the question but it uncharted territory for me. Do you have a pic of the pump? Thanks
Once the trans is out, splitting the housing is straightforward. Remind (11?) bolts and gently chisel the two apart. Getting it back on is a little trickier as you have to line up several shafts while maneuvering the housing with fresh RTV on it.

I’ll dig around for more pictures soon.



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Re: AW55-50SN woes-easy to repair?

Post by precopster » Fri Sep 29, 2017 4:37 am

Drilling the transmission in the right spot is certainly an option. I would be using a small hole of around 12mm which would be big enough to allow a stiff wire to go up through the inlet of the filter and thrash around inside the filter to loosen anything that is set in clumps. In fact I have the perfect kebab skewer with a pointed end for this job in the kitchen draw.

I'm tempted to break apart the screen as best I can as this is undoubtedly where the most blockage is situated.

I am getting more and more excited at the prospect of trying this. I would drill the outer housing case that contains the bell housing instead of the inner one as it's more easily replaced if I botch it up. To get the aluminium filings from drilling and thread creation out I would use some trans fluid; most should come out of the drain hole which is close by.

A Magnefine filter upstream will catch any more pieces left behind.

All I then need to do is tap a thread and fit a bolt to seal it all up.
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Re: AW55-50SN woes-easy to repair?

Post by stinger04038 » Fri Sep 29, 2017 5:26 am

Unfortunately count your losses and run. It is next to impossible to find a good used one and this is a well known flaw from the factory on these AW55s. The repair will cost more than the car is worth. I had the same car and it was sold for parts.



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Re: AW55-50SN woes-easy to repair?

Post by stinger04038 » Fri Sep 29, 2017 5:26 am

Unfortunately count your losses and run. It is next to impossible to find a good used one and this is a well known flaw from the factory on these AW55s. The repair will cost more than the car is worth. I had the same car and it was sold for parts.



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Re: AW55-50SN woes-easy to repair?

Post by cuhfs » Fri Sep 29, 2017 5:35 am

"genius and crazy" are very close. This idea is right between the two. I would use the white Thread sealer on the plug bolt which is for hot oil like transmissions. Not sure which housing part you mean but the main factor should be the you want as straight a shot as possible to the filter and hopefully it can drain out from that hole too versus having all the gunk circulate then drain or get to the magnifine. The gunk can ride on the skewer out the hole if it is in a good spot. Might need a medical degree for this type of surgery.


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Re: AW55-50SN woes-easy to repair?

Post by 01_Nautic_V70 » Fri Sep 29, 2017 7:07 am

As for writing the car off the statement that replacement is more than the car is work takes two variables, both with wide ranges.

First, what would it cost you to do the replacement. I ended up right under $1,000.

Second, what is the car worth to you? Not what the blue book value is, what is it worth to the owner?

For me, the math pointed towards replacing instead of scrapping it or parting it out.



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Re: AW55-50SN woes-easy to repair?

Post by 01_Nautic_V70 » Fri Sep 29, 2017 7:12 am

Precopster, keep in mind that no magnet is going to grab the aluminum shavings from drilling. The paper element in an inline filter will catch it, but at that point it has come through the filter pickup, and through a portion of the valve body.

It is possible you could drill and puncture the mesh enough (or use a hook and pull it out) to render it ineffective. At that point you rely on the inline filter, but at least that is external and easily replaced.

I still haven’t cut open the inline filter from my previous transmission.



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Re: AW55-50SN woes-easy to repair?

Post by mrbrian200 » Fri Sep 29, 2017 1:13 pm

If you're considering to junk the car over this...because it's an '01 and book value isn't very much and $1200+ for a shop to pull the trans out of the vehicle to work on it...I say go for it (!!)...drill away.
The pics provided by nautic show just enough close up to figure out exactly where the hole needs to go. If the bell housing is flat there do it on that side and keep at least 1/2" away from the mating surface between the bell housing to trans case.

If the particulate junk plugging the screen were behind the screen--say there's a second finer screen behind the one we can see in the pictures which is unlikely) I don't think you'd get out of the driveway before it plugged again...much less 2km or more.

Most taps I've seen to thread the hole might be a little longer than the depth you have to work with - so you might need to sacrifice a tap. Run the tap in about an inch, cut off the end (probably with a cutting wheel on a chop saw/angle grinder or a hack saw, continue very carefully so as not to cross thread the tap in the threads already started). As far as sealing I would use a copper washer like is used at the engine oil drain plug. An OE engine oil drain plug might just be the ticket here- get a magnetic one.



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