2001 V70 rough idle, surging engine, no power.

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2001 - 2007 V70
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gmabbott
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2001 V70 rough idle, surging engine, no power.

Post by gmabbott »

Hello everyone, I'm looking for a little advice. I searched other threads and found some similar but not exact issues so I thought I would post this. I just swapped out the motor (non turbo) and I can't get it to run correctly. Before I start throwing parts at it I thought I would get some input. It starts fine and idles smooth at about 1100 rpm. After 30 seconds or so it jumps up to 2500ish and the throttle pedal becomes unresponsive. After a couple of minutes it surges between 1200-2500 (very consistently almost like it was running through a program). After a couple more minutes it will settle down to 1000-1200 rpm again but now running rough. That's where it seems to stay and the throttle response seems delayed. If I disconnect the battery overnight it runs through the same process. I tried to take it for a short drive but it had very little power (struggled to get it above 15 mph). I installed new spark plugs and a fuel filter. I also cleaned the ETM & MAF before reinstalling and checked for vacuum leaks. It is generating the following codes -
P1620 - Engine coolant temperature signal open / short to B +
P0500 - Vehicle Speed Sensor "A" (generic code)
P0032 - HO2S Heater Control Circuit High Bank 1 Sensor 1 (generic code)

I've tried to include as much detail as possible but if you have questions feel free to ask. Thanks in advance for the help.

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RickHaleParker
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Post by RickHaleParker »

There is something going on with your Electronic Throttle Module (ETM). If this is the same ETM you had on the old engine, double check the connections and gaskets.

Exactly, how did you clean the ETM? ...

Mistakes get made, inspect all your wiring, hoses, gaskets and bolts for errors.

The P1XXX codes are manufacture specific codes and can change meaning within a manufacturer. In later years, Volvo, ECM-532D (P1620) is set when any sub-diagnostic requested the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). A lot of the generic or third party decoders do not get the P1XXX codes correct.

On the 2001 V70, P1620 = ECM-532D MIL requested by the throttle unit Faulty signal.

Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) information

D2302202 Condition
  • The throttle unit has requested that the warning lamp is lit.

Substitute value
  • None.
Possible source
  • Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) ECM-532D is stored in the engine control module (ECM).
Fault symptoms
  • None.
Not very specific but at least your won't waste time chasing ghost in the engine coolant temperature signal.
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.

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Post by abscate »

Just to emphasize Ricks point above, anytime you see a

P1xxx code

Don't trust the Autozone or off brand reader, you need to drill into the Volvo Ecm ( or other module) code to move forward.

P0xxx codes are (SAE?) standards and you can trust them. Usually. I never said that and half the senators at the meeting can't recall.
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RickHaleParker
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Post by RickHaleParker »

P0xxx codes are (SAE?)

SAE J2012 and ISO 15031, the two are technically equivalent.

P0XXX ISO/SAE controlled.
P1XXX Manufacture controlled.
P2XXX ISO/SAE controlled.
P3XXX Manufacture controlled and ISO/SAE reserved.
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.

gmabbott
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Post by gmabbott »

I really appreciate the quick responses. I'll triple check on the connections, hoses, etc. because unfortunately I know from experience things happen lol. The ETM was from the old engine and was working correctly when the motor died (which I know doesn't guarantee it's working now). I cleaned it with MAF Sensor Cleaner and wiped it down while it was off of the engine. I do have the ETM from the new motor but the junkyard cut the plug off which is frustrating. I'm sure it saved them all of 14 seconds. It seems like a sealed unit so I can't swap the plug but I could solder the old plug to the newer unit and give that a try. It seems like that would be the next logical step. The OBD scanner is a MAC tools unit that is reading the codes and I went online to see what the codes were for the Volvo. Thanks again for the great input. If you have any other thoughts feel free to share. I'll keep everyone updated on my end.

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RickHaleParker
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Post by RickHaleParker »

I can't swap the plug but I could solder the old plug to the newer unit and give that a try. It seems like that would be the next logical step.

Hold off on that, put it out of mind for now.

Just do your inspection and double check everything. Close inspection of the ETM gasket. Did you clean the mating surfaces good? New gasket? Torqued correctly?

It may just be the ETM needs to retrain. 2001 is in a class of its own. Trying remember the details.

I do have the ETM from the new motor but the junkyard cut the plug off which is frustrating.

Jerks if they are going to cut it, cut the harness side of the connector.
Not the side connected to something the customer paid for!
Last edited by RickHaleParker on Thu Jan 18, 2018 1:18 pm, edited 2 times in total.
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.

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RickHaleParker
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Post by RickHaleParker »

From Xemodex

"A failing MAF could cause erratic idle, lack of power and stalling, and on many occasions it will not post the diagnostic trouble codes. We recommend that you replace this part whenever the ETM is replaced, even if the MAF appears to be working properly."
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.

gmabbott
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Post by gmabbott »

RickHaleParker wrote: Thu Jan 18, 2018 11:56 am Jerks if they are going to cut it, cut the harness side of the connector.
Not the side connected to something the customer paid for!
They did the same thing with the fuel line and cut it on the engine side rather than the chassis side. Not a huge deal since I had the old one but you have to pull the intake and the accessory bracket off of the engine to change it. Probably added another 30 minutes to the project.

gmabbott
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Post by gmabbott »

Here is the update – We’ve checked and rechecked all electrical connections and checked for vacuum leaks. The ETM was removed, cleaned again and reinstalled with the proper torque. The battery was disconnected and the ETM reset according to procedure. Once again the car started and ran great. After a few minutes the RPM increased to 2600 and the was little control with the throttle pedal. After a minute or two the engine began surging from 1100-2800 RPM and continued for several minutes. Eventually it settled back down to around 1000 RPM but now it was running rough and had very little power. I am just guessing but I think it was in ‘limp’ mode. We randomly disconnected individual coil packs and injectors to see if a specific cylinder was missing. Sometimes it would make a difference and sometimes it would not which makes me think the ‘miss’ was moving around. We did this multiple times with the same results. Eventually we replaced the ETM with the one that came on the used motor. It did the exact same thing. Ran great, revved up, surged and then ran rough. Any thoughts, questions, ideas would be greatly appreciated at this point because other than pushing it off a cliff I’m not sure what to do next.

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Post by DrDan »

I'm thinking you need better and more reliable data than a generic scan tool will yield. Have the codes read with VIDA/DICE and see if they point to something.

It seems to me that trouble with the engine coolant temp sensor or oxygen sensor could lead to a mixture that's off once the engine control goes to closed loop. Hence running great at first (open loop) and bad when warm (closed loop).

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