2001 V70 2.4T Need advice on quality upper radiator hose and clamp

[prwood]

That does not look like an OEM radiator, no metal insert in the snout to keep it from deforming.

No, the metal insert is there. I don't have any photos of the snout in this thread, but it's there. I think the hose clamp may have just ended up getting tightened down on the edge of, or just off of, the snout.

[prwood]

Here are some photos from last year when I had previously been trying to diagnose a coolant leak - you can see the metal insert in these. In that case it was happening because the hose wasn't clamped down tight enough, but I think in the process of clamping it down, I may have also shifted its position on the snout.

I think the chipping and wear you see on the plastic end of the snout may be due to the position of the clamp prior to this. I have also heard that excessive engine vibration due to failing engine mounts can cause this sort of damage. I have replaced my upper engine mount and my lower transmission torque rod, but haven't replaced the right side engine mount, or the front and rear bottom engine mounts.

Radiator Snout View 1

Radiator Snout View 2

Radiator Snout View 3

Radiator Snout View 4

[abscate]

Shinola. I think I used those open clamps on my last rad job on the 1999. Put another marker in the things to check file.

[prwood]

For more detail, here are some close-up shots.

Old Hose Clamps -- Off-the-shelf hose clamps from Advance Auto Parts. Notice how the mechanism joins on the back, which means that if it starts to separate, as this one did, you get extra junk digging into your hose. Also notice the open slots which are more likely to cut into your hose. Appears to be sourced from Ideal-Tridon Hy-Gear 028 clamp.

Old Hose Clamp Frontside Close Up

Old Hose Clamp Backside Close Up

Old Hose Clamp Slots Close Up

New Hose Clamps -- Obtained from Volvo dealer parts department using Volvo part #988030. Be careful, in some model years and chassis, there are two different spec hose clamps for the radiator side and the thermostat side of thise hose. Use a site like https://www.bostonvolvocarsparts.com/ to get the correct part for your VIN. Notice how the slots are more closed off, and how the mechanism joins on the side so that the underside is free of any joints/interruptions.

For the curious, Volvo appears to have sourced these from NORMA TORRO hose clamps. Made in Germany:

http://www.normaamericasds.com/sites/de ... _FINAL.pdf

New Hose Clamp Frontside Close Up

New Hose Clamp Backside Close Up

New Hose Clamp Slots Close Up

[prwood]

So, I've got a new hose, I've got new clamps. I also used some JB Weld to seal a couple of cracks in the radiator neck where coolant was seeping.

A couple of questions before I put this back together, both related to my favorite long-running saga: how tight is too tight?

1. How do I tell when to stop tightening the hose clamps, specifically the one on the radiator neck? I'm not too worried about the one on the thermostat housing because that appears to be made completely from a fairly beefy metal. On the radiator neck, I can tighten the clamp down to the point where it's sitting flush with the hose all around, and I'm assuming I need to tighten it further so that it stays in place and has a good seal on the radiator neck, but not sure how much further to go. Too much and I risk cracking the plastic neck, too little and the hose will pop off under pressure. I was thinking I might tighten a little at a time until I got the hose to the point where I couldn't budge it even with a strong pull.

2. Not really related to the hose, clamps, or radiator, but the cap on the coolant expansion tank... This cap is designed to maintain the correct pressure in the cooling system: to relieve pressure if it exceeds the rated pressure on the cap, and to allow pressure to build up to an adequate level. My question is, does it make any difference how tightly this cap is tightened? It's a cap, so there's no torque rating or anything, but typically what I'll do is spin it on with a light touch until it stops spinning, then use a heavy hand to snug it down until I literally cannot twist it any more. I'm starting to think that this might be too tight and that maybe the system pressure is running too high because of this, and that this may be leading to some of the coolant leakage issues?

So I guess my question on #2 is, should I be tightening the expansion tank cap down as hard as possible, or just until it gets to an easy stopping point? Or does this have any effect at all on its pressure relieving capabilities?

[Rattnalle]

As hard as possible is almost always too tight. Just right, or 'lagom', is a rather hard measure to describe though

As for no 1 I'd probably go for just a tiny bit of visible deformation so that you know the hose clamp is compressing the hose every so slightly then do a few good pulls and see if it's enough.

[RickHaleParker]

How do I tell when to stop tightening the hose clamps, specifically the one on the radiator neck?

Norma Torro® specs are 20 - 30 inch Lbs.