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[2001 V70 2.4T] Oil leak, intake side, lower engine / oil pan

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
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prwood
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Re: [2001 V70 2.4T] Oil leak, intake side, lower engine / oil pan

Post by prwood »

Rattnalle wrote: Tue Sep 25, 2018 6:42 am I spent something like two hours on that bolt alone when doing the PCV. Terrible design. You've got my sympathies.
This is probably the reason Volvo has you remove the alternator in their VIDA instructions for cleaning the PCV system. “See, it’s perfect design, you simply remove the alternator!”
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
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Post by abscate »

I found you could start the banjo bolt on the IM (the hard part) then put the last hose onto the breather box and crimp the Oetinger in place pretty easily. This is not Volvo Approved.

A zip tie with a tightening gun (which you always wanted to own) would work well too.

Yes, it took me three hours to figure that out.
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Post by prwood »

abscate wrote: Tue Sep 25, 2018 8:35 am I found you could start the banjo bolt on the IM (the hard part) then put the last hose onto the breather box and crimp the Oetinger in place pretty easily. This is not Volvo Approved.

A zip tie with a tightening gun (which you always wanted to own) would work well too.

Yes, it took me three hours to figure that out.
Just making sure I fully understand your method. Is this what you would do?

1. Get intake manifold into position, and partially install on lower bolts, leaving enough play to lift for access to breather box, thermostat fitting, and banjo bolt.
2. Clamp #1 to coolant fitting at thermostat.
3. Insert banjo bolt, with washers, through #2, and thread on to manifold. Tighten to finger tight.
4. Push #3 on to breather box fitting and clamp it down.
5. Tighten banjo bolt down all the way.
6. Tighten all manifold bolts.
pcv-pipe-oil-trap-end.jpeg
pcv-pipe-oil-trap-end.jpeg (85.93 KiB) Viewed 544 times
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE

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Post by abscate »

Thats it.

Position the hose clamp on #3 so you can access the screw with a 1/4 inch drive. The clamp should be loose so that it just stays on the hose or else you can't push #3 down over the hose flange.

Be careful and don't torque that hard plastic line (#2 to #3) it will snap.

You can push down on #3 from above with a blunt piece of wood or a socket extension to seat it down on the breather box, too.

Ive filed for IP protection on this, but royalties are waived for anyone not named Matt.
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Post by prwood »

Does it matter which hose connects to which fitting on the top of the breather box? In FCP's video, they're connecting the PTC hose to the back/left port and the cam cover hose to the front/right port. In Volvo's parts diagram, it seems to imply the reverse. In my case the hoses seem to fit more easily in the manner of the Volvo diagram. The FCP car is a later model than mine, with different thermostat/coolant hose fittings and a fatter side hose on the breather box, so maybe the top hoses are positioned differently too?
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CrankcaseVentilation (1).png
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Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE

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Post by abscate »

Thats a tough one.

In theory it should not matter, but we have had reports here that is does.

My 2005 diagram shows a different PCV box than yours but that is a NA car.

My 1999 had two ports on top like your 2001, with the top hose (top of cylinder head) connecting to the rear of engine/left of car port as you have it.
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Post by prwood »

What blows my mind is that I have been able to find almost nothing in VIDA about the crankcase ventilation system. No instructions at all on replacing any of the PCV hoses or the breather box. The closest it comes is mentioning how to clean the PCV nipple:
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The truly bizarre part is that that in the step just before this, they've had you remove the alternator, which gives you easy access to the pipe screw from the top of the engine, so why do they then have you lift the car and replace the pipe screw from below? Incidentally, I did try this out and was able to get a socket on the pipe screw from below using some extensions with wobble sockets, aimed straight up the far right side of the oil pan, but I think at that point I may have rounded off the corners on the bolt head and I wasn't getting any grip.
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE

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Post by abscate »

abscate wrote: Wed Sep 26, 2018 8:16 am Thats a tough one.

In theory it should not matter, but we have had reports here that is does.

My 2005 diagram shows a different PCV box than yours but that is a NA car.

My 1999 had two ports on top like your 2001, with the top hose (top of cylinder head) connecting to the rear of engine/left of car port as you have it.

Wll I totally lied on that.

The 1999 has the PCV hose attached to the rear/left of car port, the top of cylinder head hose connects to the front engine/right side of car port.

Sorry about that.

Picture from Mikealders excellent 1999 PCV write up
1999 NA PCV Box
1999 NA PCV Box
Screen Shot 2018-09-26 at 11.07.34 AM.png (1.17 MiB) Viewed 527 times
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Post by abscate »

Peter

Your 2001 uses the Volvo 1271988 PCV box which is used

1998-2002
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Post by prwood »

Still ongoing:

- Got the intake manifold banjo bolt threaded on. Used abscate's suggested method but it still wasn't easy.

- Broke off the ECT temp sensor electrical connector (from the wiring harness side) while shuffling things around. Those things are so fragile, which is understandable since they've been on the car for 17 years. The pigtail on the sensor itself is fairly new. Didn't have any spare connectors and the junkyard was closed. I removed the connectors from both sides, stripped the wires and spliced them together with wire nuts wrapped in electrical tape. I don't know if the connectors have any circuitry or fuses in them that I'll be missing, but I'm hoping this works once the car is turned back on.

- Got everything put back together. I had drained the coolant so that I could remove the upper radiator hose and also prevent leakage from the PCV hose, so I went to refill the coolant before starting the engine. Seconds after I started pouring, I heard spatters hitting the ground. I was losing coolant from somewhere around the transmission. I traced it down to the banjo bolt and PCV hose fitting for coolant on the side of the engine. In the process of putting that bolt on, I had dropped one of the new crush washers and used an old one in its place. Big mistake. I'm hitting the dealer today to get a bunch of extra washers and hopefully I can re-do it tonight and get the car started back up.

- My wife snuck out and got this photo of me working on the car while I wasn't looking. In this shot I am doing my absolute favorite task, working on hose clamps at the turbocharger.
IMG_7769.JPG
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE

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