2004 V70 NA poor running, starting, head gasket? Topic is solved

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

Post Reply
User avatar
abscate
MVS Moderator
Posts: 24182
Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2013 5:54 pm
Year and Model: 99T5 ,99S70,2005V70
Location: NYC, ALBANY NY
Has thanked: 465 times
Been thanked: 1372 times

Re: Coolant leaking into Head? 2004 V70

Post by abscate »

Be careful of the moderators here. Some use old engine oil.

I’m guessing the compression numbers were a bit low because the engine was cold, and the compression gauge recently read low on a T5

Plugs were gnarly and about 0.045 gap

Car started easily and idled smoothly right after plug clean and gap. No codes either, except a pending P0303 misfire, Check engine off.

There is very little , if any coolant smell at the pipe. If there is a head gasket leak , it’s very small.

What happened between then and today is the mystery to be solved.

I’m leaning to a throttle body cleaning as next step. 2004 Bosch ETM. Can you evaluate by watching the plate through ignition sequence like a Magnetti Marelli?
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 BMW
Link to Maintenance record thread
Link To Volvo Glossary

Spiderland
Posts: 13
Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2018 8:47 am
Year and Model: 2004 V70
Location: Upstate New York
Has thanked: 6 times
Been thanked: 1 time

Post by Spiderland »

Yes a mystery! But just to be clear...it was only 3 hrs sitting after plug clean and gap with good start that this started happening. And then next day with new plugs installed same thing. Just want to clarify for clue purposes...

I also had a neighbor drop off his code reader. I will check them tomorrow. Can you do this if the engine doesn't start?

User avatar
oragex
Posts: 5257
Joined: Fri May 24, 2013 6:20 am
Year and Model: S60 2003
Location: Canada
Has thanked: 102 times
Been thanked: 325 times
Contact:

Post by oragex »

If it wasn't the decent compression, I'd say cracked cylinder allowing coolant to slowly fill it up when parked which would cause poor start and idling. The compression test may have just cleared the cylinder, then it started just fine.
But since it had good compression - at least at the moment of testing it, I'm thinking maybe valve issue or even timng belt issue. Maybe a seizing (and leaking) water pump? Stripped crank gear?

User avatar
abscate
MVS Moderator
Posts: 24182
Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2013 5:54 pm
Year and Model: 99T5 ,99S70,2005V70
Location: NYC, ALBANY NY
Has thanked: 465 times
Been thanked: 1372 times

Post by abscate »

My karmic feel is that the major mechanicals on this engine are OK, and that it is a engine management issue. I did forget to check battery voltage and condition, a weak battery on the P2 two can lead to a lot of running issues and strange behaviors. Again, very little smell actually not detectable by me,
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 BMW
Link to Maintenance record thread
Link To Volvo Glossary

User avatar
SuperHerman
Posts: 1674
Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2014 1:28 pm
Year and Model: 2004 & 2016 XC90
Location: Minnesota
Been thanked: 178 times

Post by SuperHerman »

Did you look at the piston tops when the spark plugs were removed for sign of steaming?

Did all the the spark plugs look the same? With those compression numbers they should look similar, maybe a little dirtier on 3-5.

Update us with the codes - I am thinking the coils are not plugged in well, harness issue, or one failed as a result of removal (finally gave up the ghost. Remote chance of a bad spark plug.

My original response about not driving the car was fear of coolant in the oil and possible resulting bearing damage in addition to cooking the rings. From the response this is not a concern for now. Need to figure out the over heat.

What if any diagnostics was performed on the water pump and thermostat?

User avatar
abscate
MVS Moderator
Posts: 24182
Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2013 5:54 pm
Year and Model: 99T5 ,99S70,2005V70
Location: NYC, ALBANY NY
Has thanked: 465 times
Been thanked: 1372 times

Post by abscate »

Not overheating now.

Plugs looked all the same, not bad, just worn out, no sign of steam cleaning on any plug.

Coils are original, 2004 date codes. Hmmm. I wonder how many spares I have left ?

Can anyone help on the Bosch TB? Does it go through the same whine -click self test like an MM or something similar?

On review... OP has exactly the same issue as previously reported, poor running with no power , which cleared on restart. That’s pointing to poor electrical connection somewhere, maybe flaky coils at 177k miles.

Time to hit the basics

Get your battery on a charger so we have a good 12 V source. These cars hate low voltage

Check fuel pressure at rail
Replace coils, budget permitting..(if committed to keeping car, coils are probably at 90% of life)
Break and remake throttle body electrical connection
Break and remake ECM connection ( contact cleaner)
Get info on and test throttle body with VIDA
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 BMW
Link to Maintenance record thread
Link To Volvo Glossary

Spiderland
Posts: 13
Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2018 8:47 am
Year and Model: 2004 V70
Location: Upstate New York
Has thanked: 6 times
Been thanked: 1 time

Post by Spiderland »

Today I will swap out coils to different cylinders and read the codes to see if it tells me anything. Will let you know what I find.

When I started it this morning, after charging the battery overnight, with the coils still in original places, it did run, albeit very rough (it did start though!). When I took it up the road a bit, it was still in limp mode. I read the codes and the first code showed misfire on 4, cleared it and the next code on 3 (again original codes showed misfire on 2 and 3). Note- When I replaced all of the spark plugs a couple of days ago, they threaded very smoothly. The wiring to the coils had no evidence of wear, that I can see at least, and seemed to seat very nicely. I do realize I might need all or some new coils. Also, it might just be my charger being wonky, but my battery charger read that it was only at 20% after charging overnight.

I will look into all the other suggestions in the above posts, but I will start with the ones within my capabilities. My awesome NAPA guy did have a suggestion- He said that I might want to check the ground that affects all the coils. Is it my understanding that besides the individual wiring for each coil there is an overall ground for the whole run of them? Would need to look at the wiring diagram, but if someone has some info for where to look it would be helpful. Does that sound like something to look into?

I also called a local Euro specialty shop and asked if they had a VIDA to diagnose. They didn't exactly answer yes, but said they have the diagnostics to give me a comprehensive answer. When I asked again specifically about VIDA, same answer. And the cost would be around $170. Should I be weary of that? My guess is yes?
Last edited by Spiderland on Fri Oct 12, 2018 1:06 pm, edited 2 times in total.

Spiderland
Posts: 13
Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2018 8:47 am
Year and Model: 2004 V70
Location: Upstate New York
Has thanked: 6 times
Been thanked: 1 time

Post by Spiderland »

Also another clue:

Even though my car had a rough start sometimes with minor vibration that abated after a minute, this new aggressive engine vibration started shortly after we did the compression test and reassembled everything. And it does not subside after warming up.
Last edited by Spiderland on Fri Oct 12, 2018 1:05 pm, edited 2 times in total.

User avatar
oragex
Posts: 5257
Joined: Fri May 24, 2013 6:20 am
Year and Model: S60 2003
Location: Canada
Has thanked: 102 times
Been thanked: 325 times
Contact:

Post by oragex »

Just do this when it runs rough, don't replace all coils just to see www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDwtZCWU7u8

The things you've touched with the compression test are the coil wiring - look closely where these get into the coil for cracks, and see if some wires are getting crushed by the plastic cover (my cover went to garbage any way, this thing only makes the coils getting hotter).

Have you cleaned the TB in and out ? (15 min job on n/a)

Spiderland
Posts: 13
Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2018 8:47 am
Year and Model: 2004 V70
Location: Upstate New York
Has thanked: 6 times
Been thanked: 1 time

Post by Spiderland »

oragex wrote: Fri Oct 12, 2018 11:47 am Just do this when it runs rough, don't replace all coils just to see www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDwtZCWU7u8

The things you've touched with the compression test are the coil wiring - look closely where these get into the coil for cracks, and see if some wires are getting crushed by the plastic cover (my cover went to garbage any way, this thing only makes the coils getting hotter).

Have you cleaned the TB in and out ? (15 min job on n/a)
I meant just switching coils to different cylinders to check codes, not replacing as of yet.

And we have looked closely at the wire conditions. From what is visible, they look good.

The throttle body (is that what TB refers to?) cleaning sounds a bit out of my realm. Maybe not, but have never done this. Unless you mean just squirting in that cleaner and revving. That I can do...

Any thoughts on the main ground to the coil run?

I will check out the link. Thanks.

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post