OBDII ---> VIDA

Juniah1 · Post by **Juniah1** » 09 Oct 2018, 11:06

Hello! I am brand new to this forum. I just purchased a new to me 2007 volvo s60 2.5T. I knew I should get ahead of it and sign up with this as it seems to be the premiere place for Volvo info. Here's the problem: I experienced rough idle and 2k limiting in the RPMs. I found the previous owner had replaced only one of the coils. I replaced all 5 coils and nothing changed. The spark plugs appear to be in fine condition. I am seeing internal messages "reduced engine performance" "brake assist required" "engine assist required" This is a tempermental issue and doesnt happen all the time. I do not have a VIDA yet so with my OBDII reader I am pulling codes as follows:
350 - Ignition coil cylinder 1, signal
351 - Ignition coil cylinder 2, signal
352 - Ignition coil cylinder 3, signal
353 - Ignition coil cylinder 4, signal
354 - Ignition coil cylinder 5, signal
900C - Brake pedal Sensor
433c - Leakage Detection Module, Pump

The coils I put in are not OEM Volvo parts. I'm guessing that has to with the codes for the cylinders. But the "limp mode" as it appears to be is unsolved. I can start it fine. Sometimes it struggles to keep going and it even stalled once. Other times it runs like new with steady idle and great power.

93SCMax · Post by **93SCMax** » 09 Oct 2018, 13:00

Welcome to the forum. You've come to the right place.

To address your "reduced engine performance", if you clear the codes and reinstall the original coils, do the 5 ignition coil codes reappear? When you reinstall the original coils, make sure the mounting bolt and cylinder head surface are clean/rust free. The mounting bolts need to be torqued properly so the coils have a good ground, otherwise you may throw a code.

Most experienced Volvo owners shy away from non-OEM coils due to potential issues. I'm still running my originals (2001), but have also picked up a few spares at the junk yard just in case. Personally, I'd trust used OEM coils over new non-name brand coils.

Good luck. Let us know your results.

Juniah1 · Post by **Juniah1** » 09 Oct 2018, 17:48

Thanks for the reply! I caved and purchased a VIDA today so I will hook it up in 12 days as soon as it gets here. As for your advice, thanks. I have not tried reinstalling the original Coils because only 4/5 were OEM anyways. Do you think that would be causing the RPM limiting? If so, I would have to get 5 OEM coils. Any advice on cleaning the top of the engine? When I purchased it there was 1/4” of oil sitting on the block and lots of residue (they clearly did not take care of this car) and I’m afraid I’ll short something out if I just spray it down with degreaser and hose it out. I appreciate any responses!

93SCMax · Post by **93SCMax** » 10 Oct 2018, 05:37

Yes, I think they may contribute to the RPM limiting. Now that you've shared the excessive oil on the block, that may also contribute if the oil has gotten into the coil connectors. You either have an oil leak or whoever did the last oil change spilled a lot of oil filling it. Either way, wipe it all down, spray electrical cleaner into the coil connections and harness wiring, let it dry and then reinstall the original coils, even if they are not all OEM. If she runs, monitor the oil level, monitor any new codes and recheck the top of the engine for oil after driving for a few days. If you are still RPM limited, lets regroup and maybe wait for VIDA or others to chime in.

Can you share why you bought new coils?

Georgeandkira · Post by **Georgeandkira** » 10 Oct 2018, 06:59

I'll bet the VIDA will give you more focused answers.

Definitely get back to us after you're "VIDA equipped".

Did you buy a DICE unit too? I believe you need one. G&K

Post by **chrism** » 10 Oct 2018, 08:19

93SCMax wrote: ↑10 Oct 2018, 05:37 You either have an oil leak or whoever did the last oil change spilled a lot of oil filling it.

Or the PCV system is so clogged up that it's blowing oil out from under the filler cap and its running down into the coil area. Or the upper PCV hose, the one that comes up from the oil separator box, is leaking where it connects to the top of the engine.

93SCMax · Post by **93SCMax** » 10 Oct 2018, 11:58

chrism wrote: ↑10 Oct 2018, 08:19
93SCMax wrote: ↑10 Oct 2018, 05:37 You either have an oil leak or whoever did the last oil change spilled a lot of oil filling it.
Or the PCV system is so clogged up that it's blowing oil out from under the filler cap and its running down into the coil area. Or the upper PCV hose, the one that comes up from the oil separator box, is leaking where it connects to the top of the engine.

+1...good advice

I didn't think of the PCV system being clogged or hose being busted since I've never experienced those...even with a 17 YO car. I attribute the lack of experiencing those failures to running Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic since day one. Since his car is a "new to him" used vehicle, looking at the PCV system/PCV hose is excellent advice to address the oil issue.

EngineeringBloke · Post by **EngineeringBloke** » 10 Oct 2018, 19:15

I would not hose down the area under the engine covers. I don't like the idea of getting a lot of water there with the wiring, and so close to the timing belt. Mop up what oil you can then use electrical cleaners and wipe again.

When the PCV system is clogged, pressure increases in parts of the engine. This can be tested by putting a rubber glove over the oil filler cap and seeing if it inflates. If it does, then the PCV system needs cleaning/replacement. Otherwise, if the glove gets pulled towards the filler, then the PCV is ok. There is a grating in the oil filler hole, so the glove will not be lost.

If the PCV system needs work, do raise (and keep raised) the oil dipstick a bit to release some extra pressure and avoid that stress being applied to internal engine seals. Also you may see some smoke from there if the PCV is bad.

Let us know the condition of the oil filler grating. My third hand '06 2.5T has a little sludge there, but it has been improving since I put in synthetic oil.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 10 Oct 2018, 23:50

P0350 -P0355 are all Ignition coil Faulty signal .

Two Possible sources:
1. Contact resistance, oxidation, ignition coil connector or other damage in the wiring loom.
2. Damaged ignition coil.

Because you had this problem with the old coils, I suspect it is #1. Clean the connections and check for other defects in the loom. The metal pads under the retaining bolts are ground connections, make sure they are good and clean also.

Post by **precopster** » 11 Oct 2018, 02:32

The NON OEM coils has me. I recently tried some Chinese knock-offs for $22 each from 2 different stores.

One of them immediately gave me an O2 sensor code

The other 2 both gave me signal faults (ECM-3310) with no misfires but I removed them for fear of damaging the ECM.

The original Chinese supplier I purchased from 2 years ago has closed his store (they were great cheap coils that are still working) Unfortunately they were packaged so badly that they had damaged connectors.

I've tried the Delphi coils GN10334 from Amazon for $27 each (they worked fine)
Also Bosch Part number 0221604008 from EBay is perfect.