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ATF JWS3309 Service Method ?

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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Mikele82
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ATF JWS3309 Service Method ?

Post by Mikele82 »

Hello,
I want to do some service on my 2004 XC70 178,000 mile.
I bought is 1st hand a year ago with all service records.
I'm not sure which Automatic transmission fluid was used, and last complete flush was done years ago.
is any JWS3309 ATF good to add for topping off ?

which is good ?
-----
Mobil 3309
or
Beck Arnley 252-2002 (O'reilly recommended)
or
Genuine Toyota 00279-000T4-01
----
And for a deeper service.
Which is recommended ?

i found these very clear instructions:
(they do mention "While a complete flush is possible, Volvo doesn't recommend to flush out all of the fluid"


Or a full flush one:
Last edited by Mikele82 on 13 May 2019, 17:17, edited 1 time in total.

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MDK
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Post by MDK »

Hey le82...MDK here. If you have the aisin/Warner transmission.. I would the use the aisin T1-V. I just did a full flush on both my Volvo's last week with it. Pull / remove top line from the radiator and get about 4 feet of fuel line hose (10 mm) and stick it in the radiator get a five gallon bucket.. turn the car on and pump it out until it stops coming out... immediately! Make sure to re- fill through the dipstick tube ONLY!. Refill with 4 quarts repeat. On the last fill only put in 3 and 1/2 quarts and check your fluid level. I bought 12 quarts.. some guys use 16. I am not a moderator... but I'm in the junkyard alot. More than I care to be... rolling on

Archer
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Post by Archer »


XC70Rider
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Post by XC70Rider »

This thread describes the various 3309 ATFs

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=78860&hilit=mobil+3309+toyota

EngineeringBloke
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Post by EngineeringBloke »

1. A drain and fill uses the ATF drain plug to drop about half the ATF. Measure the collected fluid and add back the same amount of new ATF fluid via the ATF dipstick (which is the yellow one) hole with a long thin funnel.

2. The Gibbons method uses the ATF pump to pump ATF out of the ATF radiator line. Engine is run to run the pump, and stopped after 2 or 4 quarts are pumped out. I used 2 quarts at a time. Refill an equal amount to avoid the ATF level getting low. Then repeat until the ATF comes out of the line looking new. This method replaces much more of the ATF as the ATF system is used to circulate the fluid. You can shift the transmission through the gears, leaving at each one briefly, foot on brake during the process to try to remove the older fluid.

Take a quart container, fill it with water, and pour into a gallon container (plastic water jug). Mark the 2 and 4 quart levels on the gallon container then discard the water. Make up an extension hose and connect to the ATF radiator line. When the jug is full, you can put the used ATF into another, larger container.

IPD has a cheap kit for this with instructions:
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/4808/10 ... ipd-107945

3. There is a little confusion over the term "flush". There were some powered machines that forced ATF fluid through a transmission. This is generally accepted to be bad for the transmission. Now, most machines that are hooked up to an ATF circulation lines are more gentle and perform more of an ATF replacement action, similar to the Gibbons method (2 above).


Note. Some have recommended that for older transmissions, it is gentler to them to just do the drain and fill. But then to repeat the process after a few weeks or months. This dilutes the older fluid to 50%, 25% 12.5% and so on at each change.

There is a lot of discussion over which ATF is best. Take a look at XC70Rider's link above.

And check the AFT level, before and after the process. Best to do it after driving for about 20 - 30 minutes so the ATF is warm as it expands and the volume is temperature dependent! Watch your hands when reaching for the dipstick, a glove helps protect you from the hot pipes.

Mikele82
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Post by Mikele82 »

sharing IPD Flush instructions link:
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/4808/10 ... ipd-107945

IPD sells the Aisen (ATF-0T4) JWS3309
should I just go with that one ?

https://www.ipdusa.com/product.asp?P_ID ... ory=basket

XC70Rider
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Post by XC70Rider »

Mikele82 wrote: 14 May 2019, 11:32
IPD sells the Aisen (ATF-0T4) JWS3309
should I just go with that one ?

https://www.ipdusa.com/product.asp?P_ID ... ory=basket
That would be my last choice of 3309 ATF I would use. Read the thread I posted earlier and you'll see that Genuine Volvo ATF is the best choice and Idemitus TLS is the closest match at half the price.

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MDK
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Post by MDK »

The original Japanese built transmission came with idemitsu fluid. That's why I'm using aisin T - 1V . It's a Toyota fluid. FYI. The stuff that comes with the Volvo label is the same ... only marked up ..way up. I mean if want to 25$ a quart. You can ...I suppose. Some guys here use the wolfs head universal synthetic. But I wanted to put in the closest I could get to the original. 2002 V-70 non turbo...2004 S 60 R

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Post by vtl »

Volvo fluid comes with viscosity cSt@100 = 7.5, Mobil 3309 is like 7.2, Aisin 0T4 is even less. Also Volvo is fortified with higher levels of friction modifier, you may want to add 2-4 oz of Lubegard HFM to non-Volvo fluid (or to Volvo fluid is well - these transmissions are all old now, friction packs worn a lot).

Archer
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Post by Archer »

I have a 2002 V70 T5 with 151,000...I'm the second owner and the transmission has no issues. Did my 2nd drain/fill/flush (Gibbons) with
Idemitsu, but this time added a whole bottle, 10 oz, of Lubegard HFM for good measure. The car shifts beautifully.

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