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PCV R&R - Losing the battle to the dreaded hidden Intake bolt Topic is solved
- oragex
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Re: PCV R&R - Losing the battle to the dreaded hidden Intake bolt
Is that a swivel socket ? It looks quite 'fat' for a 10mm 1/4" My non swivel one was significantly thinner which may have to do with sliding it on the bolt head
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Re: PCV R&R - Losing the battle to the dreaded hidden Intake bolt
Just a standard Craftsman, no swivel.
- oragex
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Re: PCV R&R - Losing the battle to the dreaded hidden Intake bolt
If it doesn't fit in there, may try a hardware store maybe they sell one that has a smaller diameter. It's all about this diameter, my socket was touching against the thermostat housing when I placed it on the bolt, I think a little larger diameter and the socket wouldn't have got over the bolt
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- GlennG2759
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Re: PCV R&R - Losing the battle to the dreaded hidden Intake bolt
Today, I was changing out plugs in my new to me 2006 V70 NA, pushed on the pcv down tube and snap. 100k and 13 yrs. I was planning on doing it anyway. I rigged a new hose with a couple 5/8 barbed elbows enlarging to 3/4 which I was able fish thru the IM and slip over the broken existing line. Not perfect but at least it's closed up. Sat down started researching for this project and this thread popped up. The information and knowledgeable people on this site never ceases to amaze me !!!
- mrbrian200
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Re: PCV R&R - Losing the battle to the dreaded hidden Intake bolt
Ha. I started, then didn't start my PCV today-- I was aware this one bolt on the manifold is difficult to get at. But assumed a wobble extension would work.
I investigated this bolt first before taking anything else apart. Decided it wasn't worth the risk of possibly stripping the bolt using the wobble. Just as concerning: not being sure if it's torqued properly when I put things back together.
There appear to be several companies which duplicate the snapon shallow swivel design. @14 ft-lb I would imagine any of them will work fine for this. I'm looking at the Sunex 810um on Amazon ASIN B000TQ14YG. 1/4" drive 6 point
My thoughts are if it feels a little grabby/notchy compared to the more expensive(!) snapon, work a little grease into the swivel ball joint.
I investigated this bolt first before taking anything else apart. Decided it wasn't worth the risk of possibly stripping the bolt using the wobble. Just as concerning: not being sure if it's torqued properly when I put things back together.
There appear to be several companies which duplicate the snapon shallow swivel design. @14 ft-lb I would imagine any of them will work fine for this. I'm looking at the Sunex 810um on Amazon ASIN B000TQ14YG. 1/4" drive 6 point
My thoughts are if it feels a little grabby/notchy compared to the more expensive(!) snapon, work a little grease into the swivel ball joint.
- GlennG2759
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Re: PCV R&R - Losing the battle to the dreaded hidden Intake bolt
When I did this on my 850, I believe I used a combination of 2 wobble ext., 1 straight ext., and 6 pt. socket. 1/4 in. The V70 sounds like it might be more of a bear. I am going to experiment on this one bolt tomorrow. It's not something I want to find myself running around looking for special tools in the middle of. If I find the right combo I'll post, If you do please post. Thanks Glenn
- GlennG2759
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Re: PCV R&R - Losing the battle to the dreaded hidden Intake bolt
I think this can be done without messing with the pump or thermostat housing
- - Pete -
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Re: PCV R&R - Losing the battle to the dreaded hidden Intake bolt
Congratulations on getting it. Man, sure can be a bugger to get that one figured out.
This is what I use. I’ve only done turbo 2.5 P2's, so I can’t speak to any alleged increase in difficulty with N/A engines.
It’s just a 1/4” extension w/a wobble end (not a u-joint type swivel), 10mm 1/4” drive 6-point socket & a 1/4” ratchet.
For the banjo bolt, I sometimes can get a flex head ratcheting 17mm end wrench on there, but once the intake manifold is loose from the head this is what I’ve used. 1/4” drive swivel head ratchet, 1/4 to 3/8” adapter, then your 17mm 6-point with 3/8” drive.
This is what I use. I’ve only done turbo 2.5 P2's, so I can’t speak to any alleged increase in difficulty with N/A engines.
It’s just a 1/4” extension w/a wobble end (not a u-joint type swivel), 10mm 1/4” drive 6-point socket & a 1/4” ratchet.
For the banjo bolt, I sometimes can get a flex head ratcheting 17mm end wrench on there, but once the intake manifold is loose from the head this is what I’ve used. 1/4” drive swivel head ratchet, 1/4 to 3/8” adapter, then your 17mm 6-point with 3/8” drive.
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Last edited by - Pete - on Wed Jul 10, 2019 8:29 am, edited 1 time in total.
2001 V70XC 142k
2004 V70 AWD 134k
2004 V70R M66 142k
2004 XC70 278k
2006 XC70 155k Sold
2004 V70 AWD 134k
2004 V70R M66 142k
2004 XC70 278k
2006 XC70 155k Sold
- SuperHerman
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Re: PCV R&R - Losing the battle to the dreaded hidden Intake bolt
To keep the contraption from being "floppy" use electrical tape. Wrap it around the joint and a bit higher. You can bend it in the shape you want and it will hold for a few uses. Common trick for floppy swivels. Same concept as your wire but will be easier to fashion.
As to SnapOn - it is a ball joint contraption. I measured a common 10mm socket at 13.75 mm - the SnapOn socket is 15.25 on the socket end and 16.85 at its widest point on the swivel end. It doesn't get fat until about 20mm. These are measurements for 1/4" sockets.
As to SnapOn - it is a ball joint contraption. I measured a common 10mm socket at 13.75 mm - the SnapOn socket is 15.25 on the socket end and 16.85 at its widest point on the swivel end. It doesn't get fat until about 20mm. These are measurements for 1/4" sockets.
- abscate
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Re: PCV R&R - Losing the battle to the dreaded hidden Intake bolt
It’s a lot harder on the P2s than the P80s. My 1999 took a 1/4 drive 10mm socket directly, the P2s wont
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A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
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A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 BMW
Link to Maintenance record thread
Link To Volvo Glossary
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