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question on changing out control arm

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amblerman
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Re: question on changing out control arm

Post by amblerman »

xHeart wrote: Wed Sep 18, 2019 12:38 pm

Raising on jack stand is first step to ensuring personal safety.
That will definitely be done. I have jack stands I am comfortable with. My question about safety was about anything involved with the LCA job that might cause some unique experience over the same job on my s70.

There seems to be the potential for putting components under tension (with straps or giant levers) than compared to my s70.

-A
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Re: question on changing out control arm

Post by Antoine240bk »


Wow.. lower subframe to get a bolt out.. that is really a terrible design for something that will definitely be serviced (LCA).
Maybe that's why all the videos I've watched are done on driver's side. :D

I'm assuming (but have to ask) if the bolt has to come all the way out or does it unscrew enough to get the LCA off. I'm assuming it has to since you mention that. and by "strech screws" you're talking about BOTH the driveshaft to knuckle and the subframe bolts.

-A
That's what i thought too! :)
You'll be fine with a 15mm offset spanner to do this job near the subframe.
Yes it does unscrew enough to get the LCA off. I changed out three of the four screws with new and the big rear one as well.
They have different length, on the front these are shorter.

I always use new screws when i can.
Screws on both driveshaft to knuckle are meant to be stretch for one use.
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Re: question on changing out control arm

Post by oragex »

On mine I just jacked the engine/transmission about 1inch on each side. Didn't disconnect anything but you dont want to force too much either - really just enough to place the spanner or ratchet. Ratchet wise, i'd go with the 1/2, those 15mm may be too much for a 3/8 No need to preload anything imo, but placing the bj back is difficult because the lca bushings are new and very stiff. May try to pull the arm down with a strap attached to the jack stand. I prefer rather disconnecting the strut bolts - careful not to stretch the CV joint
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Re: question on changing out control arm

Post by abscate »

Volvo says to use a new bolt on the axle shaft but the torque is well below the stretch point of an M8 bolt, I think its only 50 Nm spec.

I always use a new one, though. Its a major hassle if it gets loose - all sorts of ABS errors and speed errors and crap like that.
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Re: question on changing out control arm

Post by xHeart »

amblerman wrote: Wed Sep 18, 2019 1:42 pm
xHeart wrote: Wed Sep 18, 2019 12:38 pm

Raising on jack stand is first step to ensuring personal safety.
That will definitely be done. I have jack stands I am comfortable with. My question about safety was about anything involved with the LCA job that might cause some unique experience over the same job on my s70.

There seems to be the potential for putting components under tension (with straps or giant levers) than compared to my s70.

-A
Placing a bottle jack (3-ton) under the rear part of subframe for support using a wooden block as buffer -- movable. Strap method is Volvo recommended, indeed safer than giant lever -- use a better grade strap.

The long bolts are hard to torque due to their location - snug and then 45º has worked for me.
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Re: question on changing out control arm

Post by amblerman »

Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions.

I helped forum member Mr. Detail with his car this saturday. We only got one side done because of the amount of time we were able to devote to the job but mostly everything went well.
Before doing this job I had trouble visualizing why the control arm had to be pulled down with such force.
on my 1999 s70, the control arms rotate freely. But on the later cars like this 2003 V70, they can't rotate downwards freely at all. Just a different design. It does take a bit of force to lower them.

We changed out his front bearing, sway bar links and control arms.

What went well:
None of the fasteners were stuck or seized
strap method worked just fine.
protected CV joint so no damage to outer boots.
everything went back in fine.

What didn't go well
discovered both inner CV boots torn
discovered both front brake lines need to be replaced.
when attaching the steering knuckle to strut, we had a lot of difficulty getting second bolt through. We started with top bolt but the bottom hole proved impossible to align. When we started over and put bottom bolt in first, the top hole was easy to align.

Thanks again


<edited for spelling>
Last edited by amblerman on Mon Sep 23, 2019 1:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: question on changing out control arm

Post by abscate »

Car safety Police here. That is a no on jack stands on unstable ground, please.

You could work that with a stiff piece of wood or metal in good condition for all four bearing surfaces of the jack stand.
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Re: question on changing out control arm

Post by amblerman »

That photo scares me. How could that even work? I can't imagine the ground being hard enough to support that as it is.

We were on a nice driveway and all surfaces were solid.
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Re: question on changing out control arm

Post by abscate »

That was Antoine's bad.

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Re: question on changing out control arm

Post by oragex »

Jackstands on grass ? That looks scarry. The jack may even incline and flip on the side being tall
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