xHeart wrote: ↑Mon May 25, 2020 9:19 am
The rear of the car is sitting on jack-stand. I'm imaging that removing "stay" will lower the control arm, thus, relatively not perfectly, align the mounting point to the shock's donut. Once the shock is mounted, I'll place a bottle-jack under the knuckle and raise the assembly so the "stay" to align back to its mounts... unless you say otherwise.
Correct. Did that trick a dozen or more times.
Removing "stay" is removing the rear bolt only. Front bolt needs only a few turns, to allow the stay to drop down.
xHeart wrote: ↑Mon May 25, 2020 3:07 pm
Front bolt as the one on knuckle, vtl?
Front bolt as the one on subframe, rear bolt on knuckle.
Thank you!
When comparing the two new strut assemblies on the bench, the passenger shock passes through coil relatively centered and mounts at the "hat". However, the driver's shock passes through the coil NOT centered, but still mounts at the hat. This off-center places the shock at a finger distance from coil as it enters the hat. Is this normal?
Do I undo it and check for what? Here is a pix:
MVS_01V70XC_1007.jpg (165.51 KiB) Viewed 182 times
Getting back to completing the rear suspension service. In addition to the obvious replacements of coil spring and shock, it made sense to replace spring seat insulator PN 8646802 and shock mount washer PN 8646101. But spring seat insulator PN 8646802 order was refunded due to backorder and may not be available.
The old shock mount washer appeared fine at a glance, but visibly deformed and cracked when compared side-by-side with new. The spring seat insulator looks beaten at the notch where spring rests. Reusing it as-is for now.
Broke off T40 two times during counter-hold and tightening the 18mm shock nut at the mount. A trip to HFT is due before I resume.
The VIDA "normal position" for torque is 432mm (17") fender to center of the hub for the "stay". Does the 12M bolt, shock to control arm, also torques at this same "normal position". The torque value for 12M is 80NM.
It is now back on the street. The rear has settled to 17" height after a day of normal drive with things-to-do. Here are my take on this 200k miles rear suspension refresh on our 2001 V70XC:
- remove 1 screw with half-moon washer from the cargo at each end as Pete noted
- after raising the car, remove the 12mm screw at holding brake line bracket
- loosen 2 bolts on stay, 2 bolts on tie rod (toe rod), and one shock bolt to control arm – 2-4 full turn
- INSTALL RATCHETING STRAP
- use VTL tip, and remove strut
- clean up for good house-keeping, and a fresh coat of paint for snow and salt country life
- the strut refresh included, coil spring, shock, spring seat, and the mount bearing washer -- I replaced the links too
- It is best to use T40 for counter-hold NOT TT40
- after seating back the struts on either side, hand tighten the two bolts to the body
- slide in the shock using Pitman Arm Wedge (fork tool for $10 at HFT) over the control arm and screw on and hand tightened the bolt - now torque the 2 strut bolts to the body, 50Nm
- REMOVE RATCHETING STRAP
- work one side at a time by raising on a mobile jack from the knuckle to "normal position" of 17" -- look for best position for jack so you have a straight shot at threading back the stay bolt at the knuckle, and room to torque -- I used a 2nd placement at the toe-rod location at knuckle to make it easy on myself
- torque tie rod, stay, and then shock to the control arm
- install 12mm brake line bracket bolt
- install wheel, lower the car, torque the wheel lug
- install the half-moon screw from the cargo
