Remote start

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
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2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
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2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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Volvoman1516
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Year and Model: 2003 XC70
Location: Haddam ct

Remote start

Post by Volvoman1516 »

So I want to put on a remote start on my 2003 XC 70. Just wondering what you guys know about the immobilizer in that car and if it is even realistic to do it. I have electrical experience and I’m not afraid to splice/ soldier wires. I just don’t wanna mess up the immobilizer by putting in a remote starter.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Search this forum with term ‘ remote start’ to get some ideas of brands , and also problems associated with these.

Recovering a key on a Volvo requires the car to be present at the dealer so if you brick it it can be a $1000 experience with towing and re key costs
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E Showell
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Post by E Showell »

I'd stay away unless you live in the Yukon and need one for -20 mornings.
'98 V70 NA FWD 5 spd, silver sand metallic (sold)
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vtl
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Post by vtl »

E Showell wrote: Sun Dec 15, 2019 7:04 am I'd stay away unless you live in the Yukon and need one for -20 mornings.
Even then Webasto or Eberspächer block heater is better :)
05 XC70, 16 XC60, 19 Tundra

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- Pete -
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Post by - Pete - »

vtl wrote: Sun Dec 15, 2019 10:00 am
E Showell wrote: Sun Dec 15, 2019 7:04 am I'd stay away unless you live in the Yukon and need one for -20 mornings.
Even then Webasto or Eberspächer block heater is better :)

Hey VTL, what’s that your on to there?

I run the KAT’s silicone heaters on our oil pans. Seem to work great. I took temp readings of one of our oil pans last winter when it was particularly cold & it was around 63 degrees F.

I have one I need to put on the oil pan of the VR. Have to see about placement as the pan is different than that of a non-R

On the non-R just stick it smack dab in the middle of the pan as that is where the oil pickup tube pulls oil from. I use the red Permatex high temp RTV around the perimeter to prevent oil/ingress from getting between the pad & pan. These things get so hot you cannot touch them within 3 seconds of plugging them in.


https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/kat-s- ... 0000047517


There was a period of about 2 weeks last winter when it fluctuated between 30-40 below zero, ambient, Fahrenheit, & the cars all started fine. Turned over a bit slow but started nonetheless.

Edit: added photos

C5FD0919-F538-41B2-A198-8CC8F4E79574.jpeg
B3598AE9-87B0-4A1C-B60E-F4A8F5A96D17.jpeg
Last edited by - Pete - on Mon Dec 16, 2019 11:18 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Rattnalle
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Post by Rattnalle »

Remote start in the cold is a really bad idea since idling doesn't warm the engine quickly and thus causes more wear. A pan or water heater is a much better option if you don't have the original fuel operated heater. Plus an electric heater lets you plug in a charger as well which is good.

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Post by velorider »

Given its a 2003 Volvo it probably not a hot target for car thieves. I had plans once to carefully remove the rfid chip from the key and glue it near the ignition antenna inside the plastic steering cover. This would basically bypass the immobilizer.

My fob case needed to be replaced so when moving it over I thought it might be a good idea to just glue the rfid chip so future keys aren't an expensive dealer only solution.

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vtl
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Post by vtl »

I drive like that for couple of years.

Remembering how the hood release cable snapped, luckily near the handle where I was still able to grab it and open the hood, I had installed a second release cable that protrudes beyond the bumper and is accessible from outside the car. Not so long ago the hood locks froze and the new cable did snap again, now deep inside within the sleeve. That caused zero problems since I had another way to open the hood :)

Couple of weeks ago I went further ahead and put a service key into fuse&relay box under the hood.

This is actually a key from my other, now totaled 05 XC70. Among other things, I did swap the rear view mirror to have my remote fobs working, and ignition lock, the mechanical part, for old 3 keys to "work". The only one key I've got with the donor car for the chassis swap, went through Megamos Crypto ID48 chip extraction and is glued now to the antenna ring permanently.

That should do it. I think I'm covered.

If for some reason all that countermeasures fail, I'll smash the front passenger window (have the replacement window in garage), unscrew the ignition switch and start the car with the screwdriver or knife.

This is very important since I get the car to a places where a nearest car locksmith is 500 miles away.

Steal old Volvo, ha-ha! Am I supposed to help the thief with starting the engine? Will he come with his own replacement parts?
05 XC70, 16 XC60, 19 Tundra

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

The best part of -40F is you don’t have to convert to Celsius!

😀
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vtl
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Post by vtl »

P2 is good up to -54 F/-48C. Then the coolant temperature sensor gets unsure if its too cold or it simply broke, so lets spin the engine fan just in case!
05 XC70, 16 XC60, 19 Tundra

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