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getting ready to R&R the driver's side CV shaft

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Re: getting ready to R&R the driver's side CV shaft

Post by azureblue »

Thanks - I'll try that... Job got delayed to the week end.. Best laid plans and all that
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Re: getting ready to R&R the driver's side CV shaft

Post by jimmy57 »

In addition to prying, pushing back in, turning and prying again. You can pry it and then spray your favored penetrating spray and bathe the area between the trans and the inner axle joint so the lube might get into the splined area. When you go back together put grease on the splines in case it ever needs to come out again.
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Re: getting ready to R&R the driver's side CV shaft

Post by azureblue »

I went to the parts yard today and tried to pull out a couple of half shafts. Not very auspicious because neither would come out :-). I'll get some PB blaster and a stouter pry bar, and try again..

But if there is anyone in the Winston Salem area that needs an XC transmission, at Pull A Part (row 339) , I found a 2003 XC70 that somebody got the motor out of, but left behind what looks to be a new transmission, like one from Volvo - shiny with the paper part number sticker on the top.
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Re: getting ready to R&R the driver's side CV shaft

Post by SuperHerman »

I have never had success prying the CV out - a good rap on the large metal shoulder has always worked for me. Just put slight tension outwards with one hand and rap the shoulder with a sharp blow. Two people would help - one to rap and one to apply the pressure. If it doesn't work after a few tries, rotate the axle (pushed in and not under tension) to move the internal clip. Keep trying, rotating 1/8 of a turn or so until it comes out.

There are times that the CV has to be removed with pullers and serious force - hopefully this will not happen to you.
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Re: getting ready to R&R the driver's side CV shaft

Post by azureblue »

I hope so too. Since I don't have a second car, I have to make sure this goes smoothly..
It makes more sense to use a hammer to get it out, like you describe. Or try to get circlip pliers up in there to release the clip.. Judging by the amount of force I used at the parts yard - prying against the transmission case, and the halfshaft still did not come out, I am really wary.
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Re: getting ready to R&R the driver's side CV shaft

Post by - Pete - »

Yeah it sure puckers you up good & tight the first few attempts. The relief that follows once it pops out is euphoric.

Did you do the “pry, push back in, turn 1/8, pry, push back in, turn 1/8...etc” method?

I’ve had success both ways, prying & striking the inner CV joint. The worst P2 I did was the drivers side on our 04 XC70 several years ago. I actually had to remove the inner boot (I just yanked on the half shaft so hard it tore), then drill a hole through the inner CV joint housing, bolt a steel bar to it & then used an old brake rotor combined with the steel bar as a “slide hammer”. I had welded a plate on the end of the steel bar so when I would slide the brake rotor out it would hit the plate & act as a slide hammer on the other end. Hopefully you don’t have to go that far, but if you’re replacing the half shaft at least you don’t have to worry about trashing the original.

There is no accessing the retaining clip. You can try bathing the area where the splined shaft goes into the trans, but I doubt the spray lube will travel all the way in to the clip.


Edit, looks like I may have used a maul in addition to the brake rotor. Also, I can't think of a time I've ever spent less than 73 seconds removing a drivers side CV axle. Maybe Steve's French is more persuasive than mine? :lol:

007.JPG
Last edited by - Pete - on Thu Jan 02, 2020 9:50 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: getting ready to R&R the driver's side CV shaft

Post by abscate »

azureblue wrote: Thu Jan 02, 2020 7:36 am I hope so too. Since I don't have a second car, I have to make sure this goes smoothly..
It makes more sense to use a hammer to get it out, like you describe. Or try to get circlip pliers up in there to release the clip.. Judging by the amount of force I used at the parts yard - prying against the transmission case, and the halfshaft still did not come out, I am really wary.
The circlip is internal to the transmission, you can’t access it with pliers.
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Re: getting ready to R&R the driver's side CV shaft

Post by oragex »

azureblue wrote: Mon Dec 30, 2019 6:22 pm so if the clip is too large, is it ok to swap it with the old one?
I've tried doing that. The problem is, when I removed the good clip, it bent and become 'larger'. I put it on the replacement axle and it was sitting larger so it would had got stuck inside the transmission. No way to 'reduce' it once installed because the metal is 'springy'. So I'm afraid it's risky to try swapping this circlip.

Another work around with an axle stuck inside the transmission, is as mentioned above to remove the inner boot and try to slide the drive shaft off the inner CV joint, then the inner CV joint will stay inside the transmission and the rest is replaced. The problem is on some axles the drive shaft will not come out off the inner CV joint - there is like a bump and the tripod wheels will just not come out. On other axles it simply just slides out without any problem.

By the way, you can test see if the drive shaft comes out from the transmission without removing anything: the shaft has some play inside the inner CV joint so even with the wheels on, you can try popping the inner CV with the pry bar just to see (don't forget to push it back in before driving). Same at the wheel hub, may remove the bolt and try pushing the axle inside to see if it moves.
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Re: getting ready to R&R the driver's side CV shaft

Post by cn90 »

Actually, you can spray WD-40 or PB Blaster blah blah blah at the junction between the Inner CV joint and splines area. Spray it at 12 o'clock position so it trickles down. Do this one wk ahead.

Then do the "Jimmy57" tricks and you will be fine.

Of course there are photos on the web where the axle got stuck and people had to use excessive force, breaking pry bars etc.

If you follow what I said above it is very easy...
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Re: getting ready to R&R the driver's side CV shaft

Post by SuperHerman »

It might be helpful to back up and explain what is going on. Look through this post, and note the first picture in post #4: viewtopic.php?t=56276

If you need to visualize what the circlip looks just search "volvo cv axle circlip" and many vendors have the part.

At the end of the splines, opposite the shoulder, one will see a grove. Here is where the metal retainer (circlip) sits, The metal retainer is basically a circular hardened wire with a small piece missing. The poster notes "Circlip on inner side" (not to be confused with the other one which is removed to dismantle the CV).

Back on track, the CV's inner male spline with the circlip slides into the transmission. The splines get pushed into the transmission, corresponding female side, until the circlip seats into a corresponding grove in the transmission. This is what keeps the CV from coming out of the transmission. Theoretically, and it does happen very rarely, the perfect shock and suspension positioning results in the CV coming out. Again very rare while driving, but is what you want for removal. (one note - keeping the CV axle straight will really help in removal. I don't recall if on Volvos I leave the other end in the hub or support the axle to keep it straight - it has been awhile).

As the circlip is internal, there is no way to remove it without, pulling out the CV and getting at the splines.

As mentioned above the Jimmy57 trick is to keep rotating until the circlip is pointing down - there is really no way to know where this will happen, so one has to keep rotating. If under tension, the circlip may stay in place and not rotate, that is why one pushes it back in and removing any tension before rotating. Keep doing this until one hits the spot and it releases. It is not necessary to do this, but on some circlips it is very helpful. It is trial and error, repeat.

Now some more explanations - if the splines are full of crud and are fused together they will not come out easily. The easy check is to push and pull the CV shoulder to see if it moves in, ever so slightly. The movement is restricted by the circlip, but there is some play. If one has zero movement it means one of two things: 1) splines are fused together b/c of contamination or 2) circlip is so tight because of sizing there is no play.

For issue #1, spraying with PB Blaster or the like will sometimes work to free it up. If issue #2, it will take greater force and maybe a puller to get it out. But, if it went in, it will come out - just a question of how much of a fight one has.

For most instances, the Jimmy57 trick will work. Looking at the pictures one can see there is plenty of safe material on the CV shoulder to put a drift on and strike it sharp and hard to compress the circlip and release it from the internal transmission grove. As the circlip is missing a small portion to complete the circle, it will compress here under force and sit flat in the grove - freeing it from the grove. The circlip is actually more of an oval and when not under tension will stick out on the sides. Fully compressed the circlip will sit flush with the groove - not compressed the edges will not.

If one puts too much tension on the circlip it will not want to compress as it is not suppose to or the splines would always come out. If just a tad of tension is placed on it, so it just kisses the internal grove, one eliminates some of the play, and when the sharp forced blow is impacted, all the energy goes into collapsing the circlip so it clears the internal transmission grove. Hanging up of the circlip opening, the idea behind the Jimmy57 trick, is minimized when the circlip opening is at the bottom. Always do this on install and it slides right in.

Hope that helps. I have never had an issue removing a CV on any car I have owned - I have not encountered nightmare scenarios, but they do happen.
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