How to tell if the engine mounts are bad?

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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wczimmerman
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Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2020 9:30 pm
Year and Model: 2005 XC70
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Re: How to tell if the engine mounts are bad?

Post by wczimmerman »

Many thanks. I have a new driveshaft on the way from Colorado Driveshafts. It should be here on Friday.

wczimmerman
Posts: 39
Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2020 9:30 pm
Year and Model: 2005 XC70
Location: Pahrump, NV

Post by wczimmerman »

Curious: what techniques/tools have people used to loosen/tighten the CV ends? The service guide talks about special tools but they assume that the exhaust is out of the way...

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Post by - Pete - »

wczimmerman wrote: Wed Apr 22, 2020 10:01 am
What I am understanding is I don't need to remove the exhaust, just work around it.

So:
1. Lift the car off the ground
2. Remove the center hanger first, then the front CV, then the rear and wiggle things out.

Pretty much. You’ll need some good tall jack stands unless you can get the car on a lift. I’d also highly recommend an impact of decent strength. You’ll need plenty of wobble extensions - your string of extensions will
essentially be making an “arch” from your impact up to the bevel gear. You could probably get by with straight extensions and a U-joint, I prefer wobbles on a driveshaft removal.

If you don’t have an impact (electric (cordless or corded) or air) you will need to counter hold the driveshaft in some manner while you back out the 6 Allen bolts on either end of the driveshaft CV joints. Some are H6, some are H8. Older ones seem to be 6mm. You’ll want 3/8” H6/8 Allen sockets.

On the XC70, drop the 2 12mm bolts out of the hanger bearing. It is possible to get the driveshaft out without removing the heat shield & it’s bolts. Next attack the front CV joint w/your H6/8 allen sockets. Once they are out (don’t lose the 2-hole “washer/spacers”), use a sacrificial bolt on the opposite side of the flange to “push” the CV joint out of the flange. If you look at the front (front as in the face nearest the front of the car) of the output flange there are 6 threaded holes as well as 2 more that aren’t. You will insert the sacrificial bolt in one of these unthreaded holes & then exert force on the head, effectively driving the front CV joint out of the flange.

You must do the front CV joint first. The rear cannot be removed from the oscillation damper (flange) because the depth of the cup is too great (pertains to XC/V70 AWD, R’s had a shallower rear flange cup & removing front CV joint from bevel gear flange was not necessary).

After the front, the rear. Same idea here with the sacrificial bolt in 1 of the 2 unthreaded holes. This one defeats a lot of people, so be prepared for a fight. You do not want to damage the 2 electrical connectors. I always unplug them (the plugs are tricky also, try not to break the plastic locking tab) by using a pick to lift up on the locking tab.

One note of importance here, since you are doing this on an exploratory basis, I would strongly encourage you to invest in a new filter and AOC oil for your Haldex/AOC. There is a pretty good chance the filter in there is the original, and the fluid is likely as well. You cannot change the filter without removing the driveshaft and also the flange/oscillation damper on the front of the AOC/Haldex. You will also need an impact to remove the 24mm nut holding the oscillation damper on. .

Below is the filter & updated “finned”-for-cooling cover. I’m sure you could get it cheaper elsewhere.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 87#fitment

For reassembly, nothing special, but I would grease up the inside of your flanges real good so the next time you have to take the driveshaft out or replace a CV joint or boot it’ll be much easier.

You can look at your AOC/Haldex to see if it already has the updated cover. If it does & has been changed recently (and AOC oil) you can skip this. If not, I would not omit this.

DC6A5747-5304-442B-BED8-EE1E01F81540.png


Are you replacing the entire driveshaft?
2001 V70XC 167k
2004 V70 AWD 147k
2004 V70R M66 146k
2004 XC70 299k
2006 XC70 155k Sold

wczimmerman
Posts: 39
Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2020 9:30 pm
Year and Model: 2005 XC70
Location: Pahrump, NV

Post by wczimmerman »

Yes, I am replacing the entire driveshaft.

I will review this in detail and review the invoices to see if this was done by the prior owner.

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Post by - Pete - »

Ok, I’ve heard of the hanger bearings going bad, but it’s extremely infrequent. The driveshaft & hanger bearing (and both CVJ’s) on my 285k XC70 are original. They have all been greased a few times though.
2001 V70XC 167k
2004 V70 AWD 147k
2004 V70R M66 146k
2004 XC70 299k
2006 XC70 155k Sold

wczimmerman
Posts: 39
Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2020 9:30 pm
Year and Model: 2005 XC70
Location: Pahrump, NV

Post by wczimmerman »

Pete: how did you "exert force on the head" of the sacrificial bolts?

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Post by - Pete - »

The front CVJ should bust loose pretty easily. Even a 2’ pry bar should do. Just make sure that you don’t mess up the output flange seal on the bevel gear.

The rear CVJ might come easy, it might not.
The really stubborn ones have to be cut, as in oscillation flange. Hopefully yours isn’t that bad.
I guess since you’re replacing the driveshaft it doesn’t matter a whole lot how you get the CVJ’s out. In desperation, you can take a BFH and strike the driveshaft itself near the rear CVJ to knock it loose. Blow is applied 90* to the spinning axis of the DS.
2001 V70XC 167k
2004 V70 AWD 147k
2004 V70R M66 146k
2004 XC70 299k
2006 XC70 155k Sold

wczimmerman
Posts: 39
Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2020 9:30 pm
Year and Model: 2005 XC70
Location: Pahrump, NV

Post by wczimmerman »

- Pete - wrote: Thu Apr 23, 2020 11:40 pm The front CVJ should bust loose pretty easily. Even a 2’ pry bar should do. Just make sure that you don’t mess up the output flange seal on the bevel gear.

The rear CVJ might come easy, it might not.
The really stubborn ones have to be cut, as in oscillation flange. Hopefully yours isn’t that bad.
I guess since you’re replacing the driveshaft it doesn’t matter a whole lot how you get the CVJ’s out. In desperation, you can take a BFH and strike the driveshaft itself near the rear CVJ to knock it loose. Blow is applied 90* to the spinning axis of the DS.
Ah, gotcha. Since this XC70 has been in the desert all it's life the undercarriage is almost new so I'm hoping that things will come apart easily. We'll see. The part arrives today but the car is needed this weekend so this will likely be pushed to next weekend.

wczimmerman
Posts: 39
Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2020 9:30 pm
Year and Model: 2005 XC70
Location: Pahrump, NV

Post by wczimmerman »

Ok, I managed to get this done in an afternoon last week. Some observations:

1. Getting the old driveshaft loose in the middle and two ends was tedious but not difficult. My bolts were 8mm hex all around.
2. I found that lowering the exhaust a few inches (slowly) from the back of the vehicle made it MUCH easier to remove and reinstall the driveshaft
3. I had no trouble removing either end from the coupling

Did it fix it? Yes, it did. We made a long road trip this past weekend at highway speed and I can say with confidence that up to about 75mph the car is now smooth. After 75 and I do have some vibration but it feels different: it's only in the wheel and it feels like one side or the other. It did not seem to happen under load only but maybe more in corners. Most of the trip was flat and straight so there wasn't much testing to do. However, there were longer stretches at 80mph where things were smooth but perhaps road surface was playing a part in that. Maybe I have a CV axle beginning to show some wear, maybe it's an out of round tire, maybe it something else. At any rate, it is definitely better than before!

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