Bevel gear and Collar Sleeve Welding project

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2001 - 2007 V70
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darrylrobert
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Re: Bevel gear and Collar Sleeve Welding project

Post by darrylrobert »

Ive found that often what you read online is untrue..ive recently replaced mine so i hope it will last a few years. Ive already towed another heavier vehicle and its still works...

Ive also looked at using grub screws/pins and adding a larger diameter pipe to the outside of the collar but gave up on that idea.

If mine fails again i may consider this path again....but hope not
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Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

I'll let you know how it turns out. Welding was the cheapest and strongest option so thats why it was chosen, plus you don't need a "good" BG spline or collar sleeve to do it.
As far as a sacrificial wear point (I'm assuming your talking about preserving the transmission should something downstream fail) Volvo didn't engineer the stock setup to have one, at least not in terms of a "shear pin" style safeguard for the transmission, however the weakest link will now move to the sleeve splines where they contact the transmission output shaft, which has almost double the contact area as the Bevel Gear input.
2003 XC 70, 2007 Duramax LBZ.

Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

Also, Volvo can supply a spline lube for the assembly, which would be compatible for the transmission output shaft,which is a mild interference fit. Never seize would be a poor choice as it is mildly abrasive and wouldn’t allow the transmission to accept the sleeve without binding. These splines need to be spotlessly clean on the output shaft or else the sleeve will not go on to the depth that is required.
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cn90
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Post by cn90 »

I have always wondered why Volvo did NOT use some more robust setup, such as beefier sleeve etc.

You simply don't hear about this problem in the BMW X3 X5 xDrive. I understand it is a different design for BMW.
But the Volvo AWD is an "after-thought" or quick-dirty engineering from FWD ---> AWD.
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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

Same reason its easier to change a starter pinion than a flywheel.?

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erikv11
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Post by erikv11 »

Replacing and re-lubing the collar sleeve is a PITA but TBH not as bad as I thought it was going to be. On the automatics the sleeve will often fall right out of the trans once you have the bevel gear removed, indeed that's how it went for me. But I'm very interested to see how this welding job goes, it was suggested to me and I considered it but decided I do not have the expertise to do it right. So I slogged through a full BG and collar replacement.
'95 854 T5-R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
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Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

Update: I've been doing some late season camping so I just got back from the machine shop with my Bevel Gear with TIG welded sleeve. One of the things I wanted to mention that I did before I got the sleeve welded was to file the splines on the sleeve where they mate with the transmission output shaft such that I could slide the sleeve on and off the transmission to the depth that it needs to be with ease. My concern Is that with the Collar Sleeve welded to the BG input shaft, it would be difficult or impossible to overcome the resistance caused by the interference fit off the Sleeve and the transmission output shaft and it wouldn't go on all the way, worse yet you'd never be able to get it off once it was on.
Filing carefully and fitting took about 2 hours with 2 very high quality triangular Bastard cut files of varying coarseness. I didn't want to take any more material off than absolutely necessary.
Filed Sleeve.jpg
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The welding was done with a TIG welder and the assemblage was cooled after each weld so as to not burn the seal for the input shaft which is about an inch away from the welding site. Also, the Bevel gear is full of gear oil which will help with cooling. Runout was checked at the end of the sleeve and found to be 1 1/2 thousands of an inch. I'm confident that the 3 inch lip seal on the transmission will forgive that amount of imperfection and provide an adequate seal.
Tig welds.jpg
Tig welds.jpg (118.91 KiB) Viewed 358 times
All thats left to do is plug the hole in the Bevel gear case, polish up the sleeve where it meets the seal with 1500- 2000 grit sandpaper and install it tomorrow. I'm thinking I will seal the mating surfaces with a thin bead of viscous grease, reason being is that I would like to be able to see if it has any leaks from either the transmission or the bevel gear.
2003 XC 70, 2007 Duramax LBZ.

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Post by Blacklab467 »

Bevel gear install: Bevel Gear went in fine today but I ran out of time and didn't get the propshaft reinstalled.
New Bolts.jpg
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I learned something new regarding the top two 13mm bolts for the BG though: if you maneuver your hand through the exhaust/cat tunnel by the O2 sensor wire, you can easily access these bolts with a 13mm wrench. The remaining three are easily removed or installed with a standard ratchet or wrench.
Best Access.jpg
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I then threw the CV Shaft in and took the car for a 80km drive to make sure everything was fine and nothing leaked or vibrated and all was well. The difference between driving without the BG and then with it is noticeable but only slightly. I once read that an old school Harrison AC compressor draws 6Hp when it is working. I suspect that the BG and propshaft and associated moving parts draw something on that order as well.
The good news is everything is feeling good and nothing is leaking so far. Tomorrow I will reinstall the propshaft and have my AWD back again!
Volvo.jpg
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Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

Last Update: Propshaft is back in and a good long test-drive on some gravel roads confirms that the project was a success! Its so nice to have my AWD back, the driving experience is much more civilized in this car when it works, no more front tires spinning on wet pavement uncontrollably and just general driving on the asphalt feels more stable.
A couple points to note regarding the propshaft installation:

I like to drop the exhaust by disconnecting the 2 rubber hangers at the differential and the third rubber hanger on the muffler and then set the muffler on the floor, you'll also have to remove the propshaft bearing support and the brace just aft of the subframe. This step doesn't take long, about a dozen 12mm bolts, then swing the exhaust system out of the way towards the driver's side.

Make sure the 12 bolts are degreased and dry, and then use red Loctite when installing them. I probably should have bought new bolts but reused the old ones. The front six were a metric 8 size and the rear six were a metric 6. One of the front bolts had a slightly mangled Allen key hole and was a little sketchy to tighten. I'll probably get one next time I'm at the auto wreckers and replace it. The other tip I would give is to use a good quality Allen key to tighten both the front and back ones and tighten them in sequence. This step takes a long time because you can only reach about 3 bolts in the back and 2 in the front before having to put the car in drive, spin the front wheels, put it back in park, and then tighten a couple more. I would highly recommend marking the bolts on the final tightening with a Sharpie or similar marker so you know where you're at and don't accidentally miss one.
The best way to tighten the front bolts is with an Allen key, theres enough room to access the bolts through the exhaust hanger such that you can turn the Allen key about 110 degrees. A 6 or 8 inch Allen key will be of sufficient length to get enough torque on these bolts, similarly with the back.
Propshaft bolts.jpg
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That's about it, a well worthwhile project! Total costs were $70.00 for the Haldex fluid and filter kit, $260.00 for the Haldex pump, $40.00 for the seals on the bevel gear sleeve and transmission, and maybe $20.00 for transmission fluid and other sundry items.

Someone on this forum once said that its not a reasonable option to run these cars FWD when the Bevel Gear or Sleeve or Haldex pack it in, I would fully agree.
2003 XC 70, 2007 Duramax LBZ.

Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

Update: three days of hard driving and washboard gravel roads and highway driving totalling 1200 kms and all’s well! No vibration, leaks or strange noises. I tried to put the welded sleeve through it’s paces to ensure it wouldn’t fail and it held solid.
I feel with this setup that there should be no reason to worry anymore about how much longer the sleeve will last, or to source a spare bevel gear from the boneyard for when it does go. This car has to be solid and be able to go anywhere because it is my ski machine in the winter, I look forward to nasty winter conditions and icy highways now, just in time for the changing seasons. Bring on winter!
2003 XC 70, 2007 Duramax LBZ.

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