Is timing off??

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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wbrenegade420
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Is timing off??

Post by wbrenegade420 »

So just did timing belt, car starts and runs just fine. no cel's. I do feel though that I lost little power. I'm not sure if its just the fact that I haven't driven this car for awhile but I went for a wot pull and it just didn't feel like I remember. almost as if it kinda fell on its face for a sec. My questions are:
1. If timing were off in anyway (even as small as half a tooth) would I get a CEL for something?
2. If in fact the vehicle could operate normally (other than a lack of full power) with no CEL, is there a way to (once I found which cam was off) set the cam to its proper position, even with the belt and everything still installed? By like maybe loosening the 3 x bolts on the gear and manually rotating the cam?

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Post by ignatz »

My former 2001 V70 T5 went about 4 days after a timing belt change before it threw a code. The shop said one of the cams was off one tooth. Ran better after that.
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Post by chrism »

Do NOT loosen the three bolts or you risk being more lost than you may or may not be now. I agree with waiting a day or two to see if it throws a code. I had mine one tooth off and it didn’t throw a code on initial start up. It waited for the second start up to light the CEL.

wbrenegade420
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Post by wbrenegade420 »

chrism wrote: Fri Oct 09, 2020 5:59 pm Do NOT loosen the three bolts or you risk being more lost than you may or may not be now. I agree with waiting a day or two to see if it throws a code. I had mine one tooth off and it didn’t throw a code on initial start up. It waited for the second start up to light the CEL.
so if a cel does get thrown eventually and it is indeed a tooth or whatever off, would it be as easy as lining up marks again (with belt on and using the procedure to release Cvvt tension), remove belt, rotate the culprit cam into correct position and reinstall belt?

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Post by abscate »

In the P80 forum I wrote up the cam flank angle measurement for VVT for equipped cars.

The CEL doesn’t set until the restart. One tooth will set the CEL, TWO TEETH disable the VVT AND set the CEL.
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Post by chrism »

If you didn’t loosen the hub(s) and/or sprockets from the cams when you replaced the belt then you should ignore all the talk about pre-loading the hubs. Just get all three sprockets on their marks and install the belt. Double check the marks after you’ve set the tensioner.

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Post by wbrenegade420 »

abscate wrote: Fri Oct 09, 2020 7:44 pm In the P80 forum I wrote up the cam flank angle measurement for VVT for equipped cars.

The CEL doesn’t set until the restart. One tooth will set the CEL, TWO TEETH disable the VVT AND set the CEL.
ok I just read it. so basically there is room for marks to be slightly off as the vvt system has an adaption tolerance and that if timing was off far enough that you would get a CEL with first few startups?

because I've already driven the car across cities, done highway pulls, sat in stop and go traffic, and no cel or misfiring or stuttering or nothing. only thing is just that feeling of a lack of power, especially at top end. I know the s60r isn't the fastest thing in the world, heck, even the new Chevy Malibu's are coming with like 350hp, but I feel like it should sit me back in my seat more than it does when boost kicks in. idk. I could be over thinking it, just wanting more out of it for all the time and money I've put into this thing lol

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Post by wbrenegade420 »

chrism wrote: Fri Oct 09, 2020 9:35 pm If you didn’t loosen the hub(s) and/or sprockets from the cams when you replaced the belt then you should ignore all the talk about pre-loading the hubs. Just get all three sprockets on their marks and install the belt. Double check the marks after you’ve set the tensioner.
the sprockets were removed via the 3 x bolts (to help with creating room for removal of rear timing plastic plate) and placed back to their original positions afterwards. vvt hubs and center plug and bolt were never touched.

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Post by abscate »

It has to be within one tooth of correct or else it will code, eventually.

You can see the pending code right away of your scanner supports that.

It really doesn’t adapt to being off, it has to be right. You do have to preload VVT Hubs to get it right, this was my mistake that led to that thread. The write up in the procedure was not the best for clarity
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