Brake Bleeding Tools - CTA Brake Bleeding Wrench / 6 Point Wrenches

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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moncureww
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Brake Bleeding Tools - CTA Brake Bleeding Wrench / 6 Point Wrenches

Post by moncureww »

I'm gathering up the tools to do my brake bleed on my 2006 s60 AWD. I got a "once used" Motive Brake bleeder off of craigslist with the Euro adapter for $30 (and some tubing and a catch bottle), I got my DOT4 brake fluid, and now I'm looking at the tools for my brake bleeding effort.

I'm considering the following tools, and I'm going to take a stab at bleeding the brakes with the wheels on. If that doesn't work, I'll remove one wheel at a time with my jack and bleed the brakes one wheel at a time - because I'm limited with hardware, and I only have my ramps.

First off, are the bleed screws 11mm? If so, I was thinking of buying this tool:Image
Has anyone tried it?

Also, I was considering just buying a craftsman set like this:
Image

Any input on tools would be great - and should I order extra bleeder screws / caps just in case something goes awry?

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MoVolvos
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Post by MoVolvos »

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Regular combo wrench will do. No need for that tool. Not even sure how that works as the bleeder screw has that end on it already. Done about 3 sets of brakes this year and flush the brakes on 4 cars. 3 full flush of system, last week the rears on an Odyssey after full rear brake job.
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2008 C30 T5

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Post by MoVolvos »

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Below is a poor illustration but you can flush the system yourself.

1) Put a close end wrench over the bleeder screw.

2) Get a long piece of clear tubing to fit very snugly over the opening.

3) Raise the tube with something or loop it over the spring then allow it come down into a catch can or container on the ground.

4) Crack open the screw making sure you have a half a turn capability as your wheel is on.

5) Pump the brake several times and check that there is no fluid coming out from the thread of the screw or the hose didn't pop off.

6) Continue to pump till no air is in the tube on the way up while making sure you have not gone below the MIN mark in the brake reservoir.

7) Continue pumping till the fluid is clear.

8 ) Although not necessary, I use a piece of 2x4 cut long enough to wedge the brake pedal against the car seat while the pedal is down on the last pump. Next, tightened the bleeder screw before removing it allowing the pedal to rise again.

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Bleeding Brakes.png
Bleeding Brakes.png (434.47 KiB) Viewed 197 times
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Blessings,

BKM


2003 S80 T6
2008 C30 T5

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

The wrench is showings bleeder screw inside,confusing

You will Need to check your bleeders as stock is 11mm hex but many rebuilt calipers come with 10mm

If you can get the hose onto the bleeder with the wheel on, you should be all set using the loop,up method above to bleed
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Post by vtl »

Also buy a new set of bleeder screws and replace all of them.
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ignatz
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Post by ignatz »

I bled the brakes yesterday on my 01 V70. First I suck out the old fluid from the reservoir with an old shampoo bottle with a 1/4" hard plastic hose.
Then I refill the reservoir all the way up with Prestone Dot 4.
Because I rotated the tires front to back, both side wheels were removed.
Then I open the front and rear bleeders with pans underneath them, and watch the fluid drip out. Just keep the level up to the top while the fluid is running out. The final bleeder to tighten up is a front brake to get the level correct.
In my younger years, a beer a wheel was a good timer for calculating how much fluid to pass thru a wheel. Listening to Radio Caroline on my tube shortwave radio helped me through many brake bleeding jobs.
98 S70 T-5

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Post by volvolugnut »

My 2 cents: When the bleeder screws have not been opening for years and likely corroded, I suggest using a 6 point closed wrench to assure you have a firm grip on the screw and do not round the corners. The tube wrenches are handy, but really only needed when you have a tube and can't get a closed end wrench on the tubing screw.
The special wrench shown MAY have a sealed fitting to mate to the bleeder screw while the drain hose is attached to the outer nipple and the wrench turns the bleeder screw. Not really needed since you can use a normal wrench (even an open end wrench) on the nipple after it is first loosened. The drain hose can attach directly to the bleeder screw nipple.
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Post by abscate »

When the bleeder screws have not been opening for years and likely corroded,
You are in the wrong car forum. Everyone here changes their brake fluid on the 2 year interval, right?

So they can't get stuck for years, right?

:D :D :D
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Post by volvolugnut »

abscate wrote: Thu Nov 05, 2020 10:07 am
When the bleeder screws have not been opening for years and likely corroded,
You are in the wrong car forum. Everyone here changes their brake fluid on the 2 year interval, right?

So they can't get stuck for years, right?

:D :D :D
Nice concept, but I have poor practices. (And purchase others failures.)
How long did you need the torch heat on your latest project?
:P
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Post by abscate »

volvolugnut wrote: Thu Nov 05, 2020 5:21 pm
abscate wrote: Thu Nov 05, 2020 10:07 am
When the bleeder screws have not been opening for years and likely corroded,
You are in the wrong car forum. Everyone here changes their brake fluid on the 2 year interval, right?

So they can't get stuck for years, right?

:D :D :D
Nice concept, but I have poor practices. (And purchase others failures.)
How long did you need the torch heat on your latest project?
:P
volvolugnut
28 seconds, just perfect

:D

I was really surprised those bleeders opened up ok, quality on the OEM ones is really good. But, the brake fluid on the field car was pretty good somitmmaynwell have been changed
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