2004 XC70 oil pan condition

arrrxivvv · Post by **arrrxivvv** » Fri Dec 25, 2020 6:33 pm

So I dropped the oil pan today to replace the orings, car has 191k miles.

None of the orings are cracked, but all are pretty hard and one of them is slightly deformed.

I'd like to get opinions about the condition of the oil pan. It seems to be dirtier than most pictures I found here.

What do you use to clean the inside of the oil pan?

Post by **June** » Fri Dec 25, 2020 6:46 pm

Looks normal to me? I don't see sludge on the bottom of the pan. I think the varnish is normal for petroleum base oils with extended oil changes. June

arrrxivvv · Post by **arrrxivvv** » Fri Dec 25, 2020 6:58 pm

Thanks June. So what matters is the bottom of the pan, and the caked-on stuff on the walls and the top of the filter housing is probably ok

Post by **abscate** » Fri Dec 25, 2020 7:15 pm

Not bad. Some synthetic oil changes will clean that up.

It made my Christmas to hear from my favourite Florida Volvo Mom, too.

Post by **darrylrobert** » Fri Dec 25, 2020 7:27 pm

Looks better than mine did. i used brake cleaner as i prefer not to use water. Get the Volvo pink sealant.

ignatz · Post by **ignatz** » Fri Dec 25, 2020 7:29 pm

Looks better than mine did. I used Simple Green, a scrub brush and bad language only to get it a little better.. That stuff on the side doesn't go away easy. The final rinse was with a garden hose.
I think that small pipe currently in your oil pan comes out and gets new o-rings too. Also check the oil mist drain in the block that mated with the oil pan for muck, and clean it out the best you can. Mine was all mucked up.

arrrxivvv · Post by **arrrxivvv** » Fri Dec 25, 2020 7:49 pm

Thanks everyone, that's reassuring.

I saw this post
viewtopic.php?t=31236
And thought the pan should be as clean as that.

Is it possible to check the rod bearings without moving the cap? I suppose one can try to move it/shake it? It seems like I can move them side to side, horizontally.

I'll definitely have to clean the square passage that connects to the PCV. It's not completely plugged up, though the size is reduced to about half because of the buildup. I just realized it's not shown in the photos, it's below the plastic wrap in the first photo. PCV has been replaced about 2000 miles ago, the bottom hose of the breather box wasn't really clogged.

I changed the oil to synthetic 300 miles ago, the first time since I got this car. The oil filter is made in China so the oil in there was probably cheap oil.

Last week got the oil pressure light at idle speed when going uphill one some unpaved trail, the light would go away when throttle applied. Nowhere to
stop on the uphill trail, so just kept going until I reached a flat ground, shut the car for awhile, turned back on, drove downhill and back home, no more oil pressure light.

Hopefully changing the orings will correct this.

arrrxivvv · Post by **arrrxivvv** » Fri Dec 25, 2020 8:16 pm

Found another thread asking similar questions, in case someone googled and came across this one.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=93738

Post by **SuperHerman** » Sun Dec 27, 2020 8:39 pm

For a car with 191k that pan looks very good. If you have not put the pan back on use some grease to hold the o-rings in place (put it in the fridge or freezer if it is too thin) and make sure you use anaerobic sealant and not RTV.

Before putting the sealant on it helps to do a dry run (a second pair of hands helps or a jack). Also spray the walls of the engine block and wipe it down a few times so you don't get slow drips. Leaving it for a few hours without the pan helps get the last of the oil to drip down.

arrrxivvv · Post by **arrrxivvv** » Mon Jan 11, 2021 1:42 pm

The crankcase

and the crooked gasket