2006 S60 , oil leaks, coolant leaks White smoke from exhaust now gone but...

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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Stewart18
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2006 S60 , oil leaks, coolant leaks White smoke from exhaust now gone but...

Post by Stewart18 »

Went starting up the car to warm it up one cold morn i noticed ALOT of white smoke come out of the exhaust pipe.. A few days later while driving it to a Volvo shop it happend again.. I was told leaks found at the cam seals and front crankshaft seal. Was told compression test failed. Was told the cause most likely messed up cylinder rings. What do you all think? I do seem to see oil on the rubber cover that attaches to the passenger side front tire brake. Crankshaft is above that right?

Oil was very low at that time (just a bit on the tip of the stick) but once i had it topped up at another place the smoke from the exhaust seems to be gone now. This is a car i hardly drive. (2006 Volvo S60) Less than 10km per wk. I did the PCV test with the rubber glove over the Oil cap cover opening... glove was sucking in so that's a pass. PCV good.

Hmmm..

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SuperHerman
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Post by SuperHerman »

It would be helpful if you provided some details on mileage and service history. You could have low oil from the rings or from the leaks. What were the compression test numbers?

White smoke? What did it smell like - it could be burning oil or normal condensation - maybe valve stem seals starting to show their age.

How does the car run and is it throwing codes?

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vtl
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Post by vtl »

Take it for a longer drive to boil/evaporate condensed water in oil.

Piston rings health can be checked with a regular compression test.

If the car is turbo the PCV has two contours: one for idling/vacuum in intake, one for boost. Typically the "under boost" is causing problems, especially under the load on an older car with some wear in compression rings (lots of blow-by gases, even healthy PCV may have no capacity for that).
05 XC70, 16 XC60, 19 Tundra

Stewart18
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Post by Stewart18 »

SuperHerman wrote: Sun Dec 27, 2020 8:31 pm It would be helpful if you provided some details on mileage and service history. You could have low oil from the rings or from the leaks. What were the compression test numbers?

White smoke? What did it smell like - it could be burning oil or normal condensation - maybe valve stem seals starting to show their age.

How does the car run and is it throwing codes?
Oil does not seem to be leaking on the ground anywhere.. Car seems to run ok. No codes/Alerts coming up on the dash.. It has around 235000ish km on it. I had leaks taken care of and belt done about 6mths ago . I was told the compressionn test was 115 dry and wet 145. (Was told 150 should be good..) cylinder rings worn or broken.. I was told to replace the engine. That seems to be not worth it considering the low worth of the car..

Went to another place and was told the compression, crank case, intake was ok but need a timing kit, fix crank pully, cam seals, crank seal..

And i'm $500 plus outta pocket just for that. Gonna have to look into another place or bite the bullet, get it done at the current place and then cut my losses and sell... Or maybe try to sell as is (Go real low so i can get rid of it) and let buyers know work needs to be done.

Took a drive today and saw no smoke but there was a slight smell in the cabin. Looking under the car around the passenger front wheel the rubber boot and surrounding area under it seems to be wet with either water or oil. I see no oil in the coolant..

I will try to post a few pics when i can.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Added year, model to title

You need to sort out what is leaking before you can proceed. Catch some on a clean paper towel to sort it out

The engine will turn at 115 psi but it’s worn out. Good for a daily runner for a 15-20 minute work commute if you baby it and keep oil and coolant in it

A $500 repair is nothing today. You need to do the labor yourself or move on, correct
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Post by jonesg »

" but need a timing kit, fix crank pully, cam seals, crank seal.."

those are all possible DIY.
Theres plenty of youtube videos showing how.
Most of us posting here have been down this road.

Stewart18
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Post by Stewart18 »

I've seen the vids.. I don't have the tools or equipment to do those. The $500+ i've already paid out was just for diognostics/Look at it. So as it stands I've paid for not getting anything fixed so far. The smoke and smell problems vanished after the engine oil was put in. Coolant seems fine. No leaks that i see.

I've had a friend who knows more about cars drive with me and he says it's fine. Just keep the oil topped and drive the shit outta it he says.

Only other problem i have now is i still have to get the trunk latched fixed. Volvo wants nearly $500 for that even though i think it could be just a faulty wire since it works when the weather is above freezing.

I also have noticed the 'kilometers left counter' on the dash seems to be going down faster despite only taking short trips. I've driven maybe 30 km in the last 2weeks but it has went down to 220 from 330 in that time. Hmmm... :?

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Post by jonesg »

you can buy almost all the tools needed for $500 if you stay away from fancy lithium impacts, those are not really needed anyway.
I don't see any way of owning these cars without getting your hands mucky.

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Post by abscate »

500km per year? Just keep the oil level up on the dipstick and change it annually.

It would be good to get the car to 100 kph once a week for 15 minutes, even though that will double your mileage
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