I just wanted to share some tips regarding front suspension of your P2 cars.
Two years ago I replaced my items with a lot of after market products thinking that there wasn't any big difference. What a mistake! So this month I'm replaced the strut with quality parts that included Bilstein struts, Lesjofors springs and Lemforder Links and Febi strut Mounts (via FCPeuro). Simple replacement videos on Youtube.
I had purchased parts in the past from various Vendors such as Rockauto, 1Aauto, Partsgeek. Most are cheap Chinese parts that didn't last for long. A waste of money in the long run. Do not buy.
Here is a picture of my two year old Control Arm from Uro. You can see where the control arm was rubbing/hitting up against the subframe causing clunks
I bought old original Control Arms from erievovo.com. Even though they are used, they are still better than these replacement brands. These actually looked as if they were new.
I'm using original Volvo Ball Joints as replacements. A bit costly but definitely worth the cost. The flange on it is thicker than the URO its replacing. The Uro ball joint was also beginning to rip.
I used this trick to help with installation of the ball joint. Put the ball joint in the freezer the night before install. First attempt and the ball joint was 1/3rd seated. Then I use this PVC setup to hit the rest in. Three hits and it was seated. Cost was just $3.50. Its two pieces that's fits perfect over the ball joint
Ball Joints, Control Arms, Struts
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The Volvo ball joints are usually made by Lemforder
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
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Good call on the control arms and ball joints, I just went through the same thing as you probably know. It's amazing how great these cars are when they've got the correct parts installed! My aftermarket control arm were doing the same thing after 6 months. Serviceable used OEM parts should last you at least 5 to 10 years.
2003 XC 70, 2007 Duramax LBZ.
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Years ago I contacted a well known hose manufacturer. Their name appears on tensioners, water pumps and other items.
I asked about Uro parts; specifically short, molded hoses (by-pass, short heater, etc.)
The rep emailed me, "Don't ever buy anything from Uro". Gospel according to Gates.
I asked about Uro parts; specifically short, molded hoses (by-pass, short heater, etc.)
The rep emailed me, "Don't ever buy anything from Uro". Gospel according to Gates.
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There are a couple of things to avoid with URO if you want > 6 month lifeGeorgeandkira wrote: ↑Thu Jan 28, 2021 11:14 am Years ago I contacted a well known hose manufacturer. Their name appears on tensioners, water pumps and other items.
I asked about Uro parts; specifically short, molded hoses (by-pass, short heater, etc.)
The rep emailed me, "Don't ever buy anything from Uro". Gospel according to Gates.
Air, vacuum, fuel, oil, ATF, brake fluid, coolant, power steering fluid, and wind.
Their blinker fluid hoses don’t seem to leak.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 BMW
Link to Maintenance record thread
Link To Volvo Glossary
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 BMW
Link to Maintenance record thread
Link To Volvo Glossary
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Also avoid their items made of solid materials, or anything that's been on the the shelf zero days or longer.
'95 854 T5-R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'96 855 NA, 145k
'98 S70 NA, 220k (living out west)
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 293k
'06 S60 R, 167k
'07 XC70, 170k
'99 Camry V6
130k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k
'96 855 NA, 145k
'98 S70 NA, 220k (living out west)
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 293k
'06 S60 R, 167k
'07 XC70, 170k
'99 Camry V6

gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k
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