2001 V70XC - 200,000 Miles Makeover Topic is solved
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vtl
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- BlackBart
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That is a bit of a scary noise.
But intermittent you say?
A leak in an air pump or something?
A belt or timing belt impact somewhere?
Doesn’t seem like a deep main bearing knock.
Doesn’t seem like a higher pitched rattlly rod knock.
But intermittent you say?
A leak in an air pump or something?
A belt or timing belt impact somewhere?
Doesn’t seem like a deep main bearing knock.
Doesn’t seem like a higher pitched rattlly rod knock.
ex-1984 245T wagon
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty
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xHeart
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Thanks!
The tapping is mixed up with engine noise, this is a video of same tapping noise from the engine bay:
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Golden-German Shepherd | 2021 XC90 T6 INSCRIPTION (Nexa) | 2020 V60CC (Frska) | 2013A XC90 (Lktra)
Past: Golden Retriever | 2001 V70XC | 1997 Volvo 854 | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240
Golden-German Shepherd | 2021 XC90 T6 INSCRIPTION (Nexa) | 2020 V60CC (Frska) | 2013A XC90 (Lktra)
Past: Golden Retriever | 2001 V70XC | 1997 Volvo 854 | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240
- BlackBart
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I like the exhaust leak theory - that makes a lot more sense. Like vtl said, up by the head or manifold.
My '04XC makes the similar diesel-like clatter at idle and I've not known if that was normal. Normal valve train clatter I assume.
My '04XC makes the similar diesel-like clatter at idle and I've not known if that was normal. Normal valve train clatter I assume.
ex-1984 245T wagon
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty
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vtl
- Posts: 4728
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Turbo can crack, too. I replaced my old turbo with a new stock Volvo, got one for $599.
Downpipe was rusty and cracked, replaced with Snabb 3" DP. Very pleased with it.

New Jetex catback had holes, I didn't have a welder back then, so sold it to a Volvo fellow for cheap. Also it was way too loud for my taste, decided to pull a trigger and buy a new Volvo catback.
New exhaust manifold gaskets, studs, bolts - all Volvo. Decided not to resurface the manifold this time, the gaps were OK.
The car is quiet now, has extra oomph with the new turbo and a bigger DP.
Downpipe was rusty and cracked, replaced with Snabb 3" DP. Very pleased with it.

New Jetex catback had holes, I didn't have a welder back then, so sold it to a Volvo fellow for cheap. Also it was way too loud for my taste, decided to pull a trigger and buy a new Volvo catback.
New exhaust manifold gaskets, studs, bolts - all Volvo. Decided not to resurface the manifold this time, the gaps were OK.
The car is quiet now, has extra oomph with the new turbo and a bigger DP.
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xHeart
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vtl wrote: ↑16 Aug 2020, 17:37 Turbo can crack, too. I replaced my old turbo with a new stock Volvo, got one for $599.
Downpipe was rusty and cracked, replaced with Snabb 3" DP. Very pleased with it.
New exhaust manifold gaskets, studs, bolts - all Volvo. Decided not to resurface the manifold this time, the gaps were OK.
The car is quiet now, has extra oomph with the new turbo and a bigger DP.
Helpful!
Replacing gaskets and fasteners at exhaust manifold - turbo - catalytic are my maintenance step.
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Golden-German Shepherd | 2021 XC90 T6 INSCRIPTION (Nexa) | 2020 V60CC (Frska) | 2013A XC90 (Lktra)
Past: Golden Retriever | 2001 V70XC | 1997 Volvo 854 | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240
Golden-German Shepherd | 2021 XC90 T6 INSCRIPTION (Nexa) | 2020 V60CC (Frska) | 2013A XC90 (Lktra)
Past: Golden Retriever | 2001 V70XC | 1997 Volvo 854 | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240
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vtl
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Plan for the following maintenance step: body plastic cladding removal and corrosion inspection 

This is my (donor) chassis, MY05, 265k miles. I've got it less than 3 years ago. A lot of rust in the rear wheel archs, on the inside. Had to trim the worst spot.
Because inner rust is hard to reach and remove, I did what I could and then soaked everything in Noxudol 700. Noxudol is sort of hard to get in US, but still possible. This is what Volvo uses at factory. I plan to finish grinding off the rust bugs hidden under the plastic, oxidize the metal w/ acid, spray 95% zinc primer, spray Noxudol 700 to every place I was not able to clean thoroughly and lay down Noxudol 1600. That should slow down the corrosion and also add noise proofing.
Door sills are in a good shape. I removed the plastic, didn't see anything bad. But sprayed it all inside through the holes with a good charge of Noxudol 700.
Removed the front wings as well. Now corrosion, but I'll cover chassis with 1600 as well, for my own comfort.
Next summer is rear subframe drop, for $700+ bushings replacement and rust proofing the connection spots where subframe gets bolted to the chassis. They are/were rusted on all P2s I had/have.
Sigh... Rust proofing starts with the first owner of the car. My Tundra will not rust, I'd guess
Still has to clean my garage floor from the sticky 1600 drops.

This is my (donor) chassis, MY05, 265k miles. I've got it less than 3 years ago. A lot of rust in the rear wheel archs, on the inside. Had to trim the worst spot.
Because inner rust is hard to reach and remove, I did what I could and then soaked everything in Noxudol 700. Noxudol is sort of hard to get in US, but still possible. This is what Volvo uses at factory. I plan to finish grinding off the rust bugs hidden under the plastic, oxidize the metal w/ acid, spray 95% zinc primer, spray Noxudol 700 to every place I was not able to clean thoroughly and lay down Noxudol 1600. That should slow down the corrosion and also add noise proofing.
Door sills are in a good shape. I removed the plastic, didn't see anything bad. But sprayed it all inside through the holes with a good charge of Noxudol 700.
Removed the front wings as well. Now corrosion, but I'll cover chassis with 1600 as well, for my own comfort.
Next summer is rear subframe drop, for $700+ bushings replacement and rust proofing the connection spots where subframe gets bolted to the chassis. They are/were rusted on all P2s I had/have.
Sigh... Rust proofing starts with the first owner of the car. My Tundra will not rust, I'd guess
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