1995 850 GLT long cranking to start, esp when hot

[jrc1995wagon850glt]

Thank you again for your input, it really is very much appreciated. That's exactly how I dealt with the damaged/stripped torx bolt, and I did the checks on pvc system- seems to be zero pressure build up, I had same results as you, with glove actually being pulled in slightly. STILL can not figure this out and seriously considering a long wick into the fuel tank!!! It's such a shame because the car really runs nice once it starts and is driving down the road. ANYTHING else that anyone can think of that I could try??? Injectors, maybe??? Thinking they shouldn't be very sensitive to temp or for some reason start perfectly after sitting for long periods, only to present problems after even brief warmup. Otherwise, anyone interested in buying a parts car in really great condition that runs great but is a P.I.T.A. to start? haha!

[erikv11]

It is totally normal for there to be a lot of oil accumulation at the flame trap housing. Not fuel, but oil. If there is a flame trap inside the housing (a little disc with holes in it), take it out and throw it away. Not likely the problem here, but something worth fixing.

The injectors are electrically controlled so could be affected by temperature. Same with the fuel injection relay up under the shelf at the radiator. I'm not saying I think that's the problem, but it is possible just throwing out ideas. I would try swapping FI relays just because I have an extra one and it is free to try; if you are near a junkyard that's something to consider.

[rspi]

Any codes? I would pull the crank sensor and make sure it doesn't have a crack in it or something. I would also check fuel pressure.

[jrc1995wagon850glt]

Hi guys,
I've already eliminated flame trap- good call, though. I will try FI relay (though I'm with you, in that I suspect that it is not the culprit but worth a shot). As for codes, rear oxygen sensor and there WAS a high voltage MAF code, but I tried two known/confirmed good MAF units to no avail. Also, the volvo specialist that I brought it to said that the voltage curve from MAF was spot on from idle to upper range of throttle. (Although, I have less than full faith in the huge Volvo 'specialist' that can not diagnose my volvo, ha!). As for crank sensor (and cam sensor & fuel pump relay) I also tried swapping with two known/confirmed good units, also to no avail. I removed cap and rotor again for thorough inspection and they both looked very good. I am reluctant to suspect coil as well, as it really presents as perfectly operational throughout acceleration, etc.
A refresher of symptoms:
-Car will start perfectly after sitting for any period longer than a full day (24+ hours).
-Car runs excellent while driving
-Car often smokes moderately upon startup (always fuel, sometimes a little oil as well)
-Car will stumble down to about 400-500 rpms then rev to about 1100 rpms before settling back at normal idle. This occurs ONLY when car at normal operating temp and while at idle. This occurs most of the time, but not always and when it does occur it occurs at about 12-15 second intervals consistently.
-Exhaust always smells like car is running extremely rich and at times smell of incomplete combustion fuel present.

Again, thank you guys for taking the time to try to help me out with this old brick! I really hope to figure this out!

[erikv11]

Another known quirky problem: the rotor has some electronics inside, so that a rotor can go bad and look perfectly fine. "Will cause a lot of weird symptoms" is all I remember about that one. Another longshot, seems like misfires might be a symptom, but if you have access to known working parts then why not try a rotor. Also, cleaning out the IAC is basically free (cost of some carb cleaner).

[jrc1995wagon850glt]

IAC... Thats ANOTHER part that I've already tried swapping with known good used... to no avail. I'll try rotor (I guess cap, too- why not, right) and fuel rail/injector assembly next. It's great to have a parts car to my avail free of charge, but it is nearly 1 hour drive from home and only available when my colleague's schedule allows, (and as a courtesy, I stop at the store to bring along some cold ones for him each time- starting to add up by now, haha!). In any case, I am quite sure I'll be throwing in the towel if neither of these next two attempts is successful. I suppose my version of giving up on this one may be simply continuing to drive it until the starter burns out and it leaves me stranded... Or I turn it into a demo derby car! I've never driven in a demo and I know my swedish brick sh*thouse would really kick some tail out there! Wish me luck, either way fellas. Thanks again and I will surely post a follow up regardless of outcome.

[jrc1995wagon850glt]

Just to update, guys- I am STILL having same problems, have not had a chance to give it any more of my time or effort (and may have needed a short break from it anyway- so frustrating). I did not what to leave the thread open ended, and I really appreciate the time you all have taken to help with this. I'm not so sure where I'll go with this now, but I will surely update the thread with any developments in this saga! thanks again!

[cn90]

Some thoughts:

- ? clogged fuel filter
- Spark Plugs, rotor/cap, Bougicord OK?
- Check for any air leak
- ? Ignition Switch

[xHeart]

Just to update, guys- I am STILL having same problems, have not had a chance to give it any more of my time or effort (and may have needed a short break from it anyway- so frustrating). I did not what to leave the thread open ended, and I really appreciate the time you all have taken to help with this. I'm not so sure where I'll go with this now, but I will surely update the thread with any developments in this saga! thanks again!

What is Tank-2-Empty needle location, full-tank, half, below x?

[MSLV70]

I had the same symptoms and it was a bad fuel injector. Bought a cleaned set on eBay for $100'ish and it's started on the first turn every time.