2000 V70 RH door mirror problem

[scot850]

The RH door mirror motor does not work in the out-in direction. It works fine in the up-down motion. LH mirror works fine.

I have tried 3 motors including my remaining new one and they all do the same, so at this time I'm assuming they are all possibly ok.

I removed the RH multi-plug on the 'A' pillar. There was a little rust near one pin, but I cleaned it with connector cleaner on both sides, reconnected and still the same.

I replaced the main mirror controller on the LH door panel with another used one I had and same issue. Even swapped the master window switch as it appears it is connected into the system too. Still no difference.

Finally removed the LH door multi-plug on the LH door 'A' pillar and cleaned it too with electrical cleaner. Still the same problem. Only connector I have not tried yet is the mirror connector on the RH door.

I am going to remove the RH door panel and check continuity to the mirror connector from the multi-plug on the door to check the wires are ok. I realise the door multi-plugs are almost impossible to check out as the wiring harness is hidden. I can try buzzing out all the pins to see if they are ok to the mirror multi-plug.

Is there some other magic option I am missing here? There are no obvious damaged or burnt wire that I can see.

Thanks,

Neil.

[scot850]

So I have gone back to basics and am buzzing out the wires. There is continuity from RH mirror to door connector and all the 5 wires (includes the 2 heater wires).
Until I can get a helper to buzz out from RH mirror to door connector on LH door 'A' pillar, I will have to leave that for now, however I believe it will be ok.

I think I may have found the issue. I have no continuity from the mirror controller connector on the LH door for the Gray wire which correlates with the left-right (x axis) motor. I have continuity to where the wire enters the door front end, but nothing from there to the pins in the connector. The y-axis wire is ok.

What I want to do is look at splicing in a replacement wire from the door connector to the gray wire where I know it works.

Does anyone know how to open up that connector at the door so i can get to the back of it to solder in a replacement wire?

Thanks,

Neil.

[scot850]

Still trying to find out how to open the connector to get to the back of the female end on the door side of the connector. I've been able to identify that Pin #'s 19/20/21 are the 3 pins for the mirror motor operations. Pin# 19 is the Gray wire I have an issue with. I have confirmed there is continuity from the pin on the 'A'-pillar to the mirror connector on the RH mirror. So it would appear the issue is with the gray wire in the LH door. For the RH mirror the connector on the LH pillar are:

#19 - G - Gray wire This operates the X-axis or left-right rotation
#20 - BN/W - Brown-White wire Common wire to both motors
#21 - BN/SB - Brown-Black This operates the Y-Axis or Up-Down rotation

I'm going to try to run a temporary wire from the switch to the RH mirror to see if this will confirm the motor is good and then at least I can build that door back up until I can find out how the connector can be opened.

Neil.

[scot850]

Need some help here please guys. I ran a cable directly from the switch to the RH mirror X-axis motor and the motor works. No all I need to do is replace the wire to the LH cable connection withing the door to the connector. Anyone know how to take open up the connector to be able to get to the back of the pins??

Thanks,

Neil.

[precopster]

I usually splice the insulation with a knife 360 degrees around and about 1.5 cm apart then I run a cut between the two 360 degree cuts so I can have exposed wire to solder to. Wrap about 20mm of exposed new wire around this exposed wire and solder. Tape wrap it and be done with it.

Sorry I'm not familiar with those particular connectors and I've used this bypass method for 30 years and never had a problem.

[scot850]

That's ok Mike. Splicing is not the issue, it is just I need to get to the back of the connector which is sealed for water proofing and I naturally don't want to damage it in any way. Thinking I may have to take a run to PnP even though it is -10C here and see if I can pull a complete harness or worst case cut out the connector as a sacrificial part to figure out how it comes apart before tackling the real thing.

Neil.

[scot850]

That's ok Mike. Splicing is not the issue, it is just I need to get to the back of the connector which is sealed for water proofing and I naturally don't want to damage it in any way. Thinking I may have to take a run to PnP even though it is -10C here and see if I can pull a complete harness or worst case cut out the connector as a sacrificial part to figure out how it comes apart before tackling the real thing.

Neil.

[scot850]

Looks like I am on my own again with this issue.

I went to PnP today (a balmy -5C with no wind thankfully) and spent a joyful hour trying to extract a LH front door wiring harness. Good old Volvo overthink it as usual and it made it a swine to get out. It would have been easier too if I have taken an Allen key socket and removed the limit strap as the harness rubber housing mounts behind that.

I also pulled a pig-tail harness from another door so I can try to figure out how to separate the rubber 'tube from the locking mechanism where it attaches to the door.

Harness where it enters the inner metal door panel

Rubber housing runs up behind the check strap

End connector at the door and rubber tube

The wire that is broken is somewhere in this rubber tube to the connector on the end

Different view of the end of the harness

Spare used harness

Once again it has to be a used part as it is obsolete. Why do I have 2 x P80's again.....!?

Now I have to figure out how to separate the rubber 'tube' form the connector to give access to the back of the connector so I can try to run a replacement wire. If that does not work, then I'll have to pull and replace the harness altogether.

Neil.

[wizechatmgr]

I can't remember the branding but I have previously run into a CA glue that was purported to work well on rubber but is darn near impossible to remove if spilled. Odds are the wire has a break right within the center of the flex. Only way I can think of getting to it is to cut that chunk of the loom/conduit open and then gluing it back afterwards.

[scot850]

I figured out last night that the end by the connector can be opened up. There are 4 'hooks' on the rotating section when prized up allow the rotating section to come forward over the end. The rubber cover can then be peeled back from the connector. Can't find how to actually access the pins, so today I will open up the one on the car and hope the wire is broken a ways down from the pin so I can splice a wire on to it. Failing that, I will have to buzz out and check the replacement harness and fit that. That is a pain to fit.

Neil.