850 GLT 1995 Cranks but won't start

etrain80 · Post by **etrain80** » 14 Nov 2009, 16:32

I have been having slow starting issues with my 850 (191,000 miles), and decided to check the connections to the starter. I followed directions on this site, removing the battery, battery shelf, and the fan to access the starter. I reached the starter, and cleaned off the cables and the connection to the starter, and applied petroleum jelly to the connections. When I put it all back together and tried to start it, it was just cranking, and would not start. The engine is turning over, but will not start.

Any tips on what I should check? Is it possible that it could be the spark plugs?

Japedo · Post by **Japedo** » 14 Nov 2009, 16:59

Well checking the codes would be a good idea. But a quick check for spark would be to unoplug the wire going from your coil pack to the distributor. Hold it aprox 1/2 an inch from the coil where it was plugged in before u seperated it. Have someone try to start the car at this point, if you are getting fire to your plugs you should see blue electricity bridge the gap. Ive been told that there is a risk of shocking yourself with this method but I have used it a couple times without getting shocked.
If you do indeed have no spark, I would bet that your cam shaft position sensor has let go.
Ive had it happen twice. But again reading the codes is an easy way to figure this out.

good luck
Curtis

etrain80 · Post by **etrain80** » 14 Nov 2009, 19:03

How do I check the codes? Do I need to take it in to a dealer to do it? I live on an island with only one mechanic shop, and I am dubious as to whether they work on Volvo cars.

Post by **pkc303** » 14 Nov 2009, 22:12

When we had the no start problem, turned out to be the fuel pump. We changed it ourselves.

Eric and Evan

etrain80 · Post by **etrain80** » 15 Nov 2009, 14:40

Ok, so I just learned how to check the codes, and here they are:

A1- There was physically nothing in this slot
A2- 111
A3 ABS
211- Left front wheel sensor, not signal on moving off
212-Right front wheel “
213-left rear wheel “
214-right rear wheel “

141- Faulty pedal sensor, shorted to ground or supply
142- Faulty brake pedal switch, open or short

A5-also physically nothing in this slot
A6- 111
A7
122- Temp. sensor interval too short

113-Fuel gauge open circuit
231-

B1-nothing there
B2- 122
B5-nothing there
B6- no reading

Would any of those reading cause the car to not start? And why would my volvo ('95 850 glt) not have anything in holes A1 and A5? Is that because it is a manual transmission?

Thanks.

Craigd2599 · Post by **Craigd2599** » 15 Nov 2009, 15:54

122 temp sensor will cause a hard / no start Its the ECT. it'll cost you $20 and 15 minutes to change it out

Post by **misha** » 15 Nov 2009, 17:01

Since you needed to remove radiator fan....then you needed to unplug the main fuel system relay(it's the grey one one the fan carrier).

If it's unplugged...connect it and your car will start.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 15 Nov 2009, 22:17

I think Misha is pointing you in the right direction. The Master Fuel System relay is the gray relay towards the drivers side of the car on the fan shroud. If it is not plugged in it won't run and even if it is plugged in it may or may not work, the wires are all exposed and they are susceptible to being damaged. Many times when the master fuel system relay has issues you will not hear the idle air control valve buzzing when the key is in position II.

You will have no port A-1 with a stick - it is only for the automatic transmission cars.

...Lee

etrain80 · Post by **etrain80** » 16 Nov 2009, 14:41

Ok, so i did hear a buzzing when the key was in position II. I checked the grey relay and made sure it was plugged in. This time when I tried to start it, there was a strong cranking (I'd had the battery attached to a charger), and then it kicked on just briefly for a second, seemed to run kind of roughly but very briefly, then shut off. When I tried it again, it just cranked and wouldn't kick on.

Post by **charlyW** » 16 Nov 2009, 16:06

Check the manifold vacuum lines while you're there checking the master relay. Have you tried seeing if there is fuel getting to the rail ? There may be a small metal screw cap at the end of the rail covering what looks like a tyre valve press that as you crank the engine.