850 GLT 1995 Cranks but won't start

Post by **misha** » 16 Nov 2009, 16:42

Since we determined that your master fuel system relay is working...let's go on.

You said that your car started for a moment and then shuted off...The only thing i can think of is bad fuel pump relay or fuel pump itself.

You can poke around repair database to see how to jump fuel pump relay and make the car start or wait for answers from Lee or from some other guy who knows how to do that and to point you to right direction.

If your car will not start with jumped relay then we will help you how to determine if your fuel pump is bad.

My personal opinion is that the culprit is fuel pump itself,but it would be cheaper to check fuel pump relay first.

etrain80 · Post by **etrain80** » 17 Nov 2009, 11:17

So I tried to jump the fuel pump relay, and had the same result when trying to start the car. Still just cranks and almost seems to catch, but doesn't quite catch.

Do you think it is an issue with the fuel pump itself now? How would I check that?

Post by **misha** » 17 Nov 2009, 16:31

Ok,let's check the fuel pump...

When you turn the ignition in position II,do you hear the fuel pump for a second or two?Can you hear it priming?
Check the fuel pressure at fuel rail:if the fuel sprays after priming(after turning the key in pos.II),then you have fuel pressure.

Just one maybe stupid question...do you have enough fuel in the tank?I ask you this,because,these cars will not start if the fuel level is too low and fuel level light is on even if the trip computer says that we have about 50km(30 miles) left.That happens because the fuel pump can't pick up remaining fuel from the tank especially when the car is parked on non level surface.

xb corp · Post by **xb corp** » 17 Nov 2009, 23:43

- no crank = bad battery, spoilt or loose connection to the starter motor, gear in R/D/3/L position.
- crank but no start = bad fuel pump, bad fuel injector, stuffed air passage, bad idle air pump, bad flywheel sensor (rpm sensor), fuel injector relay (top of fan shroud)
- crank, start but dies immediately = bad camshaft position sensor, unstable power supply to fuel pump
- crank, start, running but with hiccups = O2 sensor, MAF, loose or leaked in vacuum lines
- crank, but hard to start = bad fuel pressure regulator

which one?

rcannon · Post by **rcannon** » 20 Nov 2009, 22:17

Could the timing belt have slipped a few teeth?

Post by **jblackburn** » 09 Dec 2009, 19:19

122- Temp. sensor interval too short

That's probably your culprit. Mine crapped out and I had a heck of a time getting it to start two weeks ago.

If you've checked for spark, and fuel and both are successful, try unplugging the MAF sensor and see if anything happens. If that makes no difference, then my bet's on that coolant sensor. i think that nasty little thing was the source of many of my problems. I haven't driven my car in a while, but my dad's been reporting back to me that ever since he changed it out, he has had no problems with starting or random stalling since.