Ignition tumbler experience

[IVIUSTANG]

Hey guys,

I will update you on a chain of events that lead to this post.

I had my car at a trusted shop to replace one of the drive axles, when I tried to drive it home, my keyfob did not work at all and when I stuck my key in the ignition I couldn't turn it. I took the key out and saw the metal piece that is supposed to cover the opening when the key is out was stuck open. I jiggled it a bit and that fixed my remote and key problem. A few times following this, I turned the key to start it and nothing happened, my dash lights etc came on but no starter turnover, repeated tried eventually got it working every time.

A few days later, I was buying a suit on my way out of town and got back to my car and WHAMMO my ignition turned completely around, I could turn my key many times around 360 degrees, obviously no start. I had it towed home and the driver said that he has seen this with Volvos before and got it working again in my driveway by inserting and removing the key repeatedly until the ignition set properly back into place. He said it needed a new ignition tumbler.

I have had a lot of difficulty finding the exact right part as well as directions for doing this on my 1998 S70, I have also heard I may need to change my keys or at a minimum reprogram something along the way. Any experience with this sad ailment? What is the internal cause of this and will his insert/remove method perpetually make this work? When I take the ignition apart, any other cheap parts prone to failure I should also replace or clean?

Thanks,

- Jesse

[JFO]

This thread may help....
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=18227


Jim

[FireFox31]

I also described a work around for the problem in this thread. My failing ignition cylinder is starting to get so bad that even this trick won't work.

[IVIUSTANG]

I see so much conflicting information, I just want to order the part and be done with it. My 1998 does NOT require the coded key/lock combo correct? Also I have read that "you can get the lock programmed for your key," does this mean that I don't have to get a different key and can use my originals? Please give me links and part #'s, mine is 1998; this is a very annoying part to source I have found with a lack of good info I thought. I have read 7 or 8 other threads throughout the internet and am still bewildered.

- Jesse

[BEJinFbk]

I see so much conflicting information, I just want to order the part and be done with it. My 1998 does NOT require the coded key/lock combo correct? Also I have read that "you can get the lock programmed for your key," does this mean that I don't have to get a different key and can use my originals? Please give me links and part #'s, mine is 1998; this is a very annoying part to source I have found with a lack of good info I thought. I have read 7 or 8 other threads throughout the internet and am still bewildered.

- Jesse

With a '98, the ignition switch is pretty straight forward.
( No, you don't have to worry about a transponder in the key.)
Get a hold of a Good Volvo parts counter with your VIN and
they should be able to get you fixed up.

I'd check with DW and Boston Volvo.

Darryl Waltrip Volvo
(800) 689-0021
Ask for Jamie or Don

I don't have a number for Boston Volvo,
but somebody here should throw in soon.

[IVIUSTANG]

A sad thing when the Volvo repair shop in Regina here is terrible over the phone and even worse face to face. 20 car queue for work and way understaffed and over worked. They have always been zero help to me. To bad I don't live two hours north in the Volvo Capital of Saskatchewan. They have an amazing aftermarket Volvo shop as well as a proper helpful dealership. Was really hoping for a part number so I could fore go more phone calls. As it stands now, my car is still drivable as my ignition has locked backed into proper position mostly.

- Jesse

[OEMVolvoParts]

I'll try to offer some information. You can choose whether or not you want to buy a coded lock or a non coded lock. Coded means it will fit your original key and will take up to 10 days to receive out of Germany. Non coded means we order overnight directly from Volvo with a new column lock and key to fit that column lock. That means that now your car will have two keys, one for the new ignition and one for the doors. This is your choice.

We sell both options and can purchased online, just click our page at the top and email us. Coded sells for $281 we sell for $224, non coded is $262 and we sell for $209.

[BEJinFbk]

I'll try to offer some information. You can choose whether or not you want to buy a coded lock or a non coded lock. Coded means it will fit your original key and will take up to 10 days to receive out of Germany. Non coded means we order overnight directly from Volvo with a new column lock and key to fit that column lock. That means that now your car will have two keys, one for the new ignition and one for the doors. This is your choice.

We sell both options and can purchased online, just click our page at the top and email us. Coded sells for $281 we sell for $224, non coded is $262 and we sell for $209.

Great Info! One more piece of the puzzle explained. With the plain jane 98's vs the 99-00's
with the "coded" keys with transponders in their heads, it does get confusing.
Thanks for the clarification on "coded" keys from the locksmithing side of things.

Remember when cars were simple? Sigh...
Good thing I LOVE my Volvo!

[IVIUSTANG]

Is this the right part number for my a car for a coded setup so I don't have to have multiple keys? When I order it how do I make sure it gets coded correctly? I assume if there are any electronic connectors to hook up on the cylinder for the transponder that on my car being the 1998 I don't hook them up is this correct? In short, the ONLY reason for a non transponder 1998 vehicle to order a coded cylinder is so I don't have to have multiple keys, please verify my questions and you have an order.

Thanks alot,

- Jesse

[IVIUSTANG]

I'm sorry I forgot to add the part # in my previous post: 8626325

Wouldn't let me edit it.

- Jesse