As recently reported, I changed the rear main seal a few months ago to correct a terrible leak. Initially the leak completely stopped. After a recent 90 mile trip at 70 mph the leak returned. Short trips do not result in as much oil leak. I am attempting to see if it is a pressure problem even though I have replaced the flame trap and cleaned the smudge pot under the intake manifold.
Knowing what it takes to remove and replace the tranny, I was wondering if it would be more difficult or less difficult to remove the engine with the tranny attached. Or, is it better to just remove and replace the tranny....again.
Thanks as always,
Bill
240 1993 Engine and Tranny removal
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Volvo_240_Atari_2600
- Posts: 245
- Joined: 11 February 2007
- Year and Model: 89 245 GL
- Location: Jupiter, Florida
I am in need of a new rear main seal on my 89 245.
I like 240Dad's idea of pulling engine and transmission together.
I am not sure as to when and if I will do mine but for the trouble it may be pulling engine and tranny together as opposed to just the transmission I see doing a few things at the same time soch as my flame trap box (complete), the two motor mounts and of course the rear main seal as well as the transmission (some solenoid) seal that my Volvo mechanic said is the culprit of my current transmission leak and that it is done at the same time when doing the rear main seal.
Does the hood have to be off on a 240 to hoist an engine and transmisson together?
Question to 240Dad
Being that you did your rear main seal and from reading enother one of your related posts, I take it you did this yourself?
I pulled a transmission from a 240 from a junk yard and I did not have any special transmission jacks or anything like that.
Was not difficult but two of the uper bolts were not so easy to undo getting he transmission loose from the engine block so my question is as follows.
When you removed it, did you have trouble getting the two top bolts loose?
What about reverse? To tighten them back?
Were you able to remove the dip stick tube before pulling the transmission?
Or did it come out with the transmission and if so, did it get kinked in any way?
I asume that the car was on four jack stands for this job.
Just currious about the whole job.
Thanks
Eric
I like 240Dad's idea of pulling engine and transmission together.
I am not sure as to when and if I will do mine but for the trouble it may be pulling engine and tranny together as opposed to just the transmission I see doing a few things at the same time soch as my flame trap box (complete), the two motor mounts and of course the rear main seal as well as the transmission (some solenoid) seal that my Volvo mechanic said is the culprit of my current transmission leak and that it is done at the same time when doing the rear main seal.
Does the hood have to be off on a 240 to hoist an engine and transmisson together?
Question to 240Dad
Being that you did your rear main seal and from reading enother one of your related posts, I take it you did this yourself?
I pulled a transmission from a 240 from a junk yard and I did not have any special transmission jacks or anything like that.
Was not difficult but two of the uper bolts were not so easy to undo getting he transmission loose from the engine block so my question is as follows.
When you removed it, did you have trouble getting the two top bolts loose?
What about reverse? To tighten them back?
Were you able to remove the dip stick tube before pulling the transmission?
Or did it come out with the transmission and if so, did it get kinked in any way?
I asume that the car was on four jack stands for this job.
Just currious about the whole job.
Thanks
Eric
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billofdurham
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 6507
- Joined: 2 February 2006
- Year and Model: 855, 1995
- Location: Durham, England
- Been thanked: 5 times
Eric,
The attached is from a Volvo publication for engine removal only. The bonnet (hood) has to come off for that. Although it does go vertical there is still a possibility that the engine will swing and hit the underside.
Do you really want all the extra work involved in removing the engine and transmission together? Your other work on the mounts and PCV can be done with the engine still in the car.
Bill.
The attached is from a Volvo publication for engine removal only. The bonnet (hood) has to come off for that. Although it does go vertical there is still a possibility that the engine will swing and hit the underside.
240 engine removal.pdf- (212.71 KiB) Downloaded 1295 times
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
Atari,
First and foremost, listen to Bill of Durham a hundred times before listening to me once. Now, to answer your question about what I did. I followed the steps in the Haynes manual. I did have the car up on four heavy duty jackstands to give myself enough room to maneuver. I did have a tranny jack of sorts. I let the rear of the engine down far enough to reach above and set the socket on the upper two bolts then worked the rachet from the back of the tranny using about 2 1/2 or 3 feet of extentions. If the socket is set well it will break loose. Same for installing. One thing that failed to do and had to figure out the hard way was to mark the flywheel before removal so that it could be reinstalled in the same position. If you install it without the "fence" aligned properly your speedometer will be off because there is a sensor at the top of the tranny that reads the "fence" for the electronic speedometer. Make sure you don't damage the sensor during the process.
If I have to replace the rear main seal again I will take out the tranny only. I have been convinced to leave the engine in place. I will also remove the intake manifold (again) and replace the oil separator. I took it off and cleaned it last time but I must have missed where it was plugged since I am still getting oil leakage from the seal and the valve cover cap. Obviously a blow by crankcase pressure problem. I hope that a new separator and a better inspection/cleaning will solve my issue and I won't have to change the rear main seal again. I have invested more effort already than I wanted. But, it is my little girl's car. What can I say?
Bill
First and foremost, listen to Bill of Durham a hundred times before listening to me once. Now, to answer your question about what I did. I followed the steps in the Haynes manual. I did have the car up on four heavy duty jackstands to give myself enough room to maneuver. I did have a tranny jack of sorts. I let the rear of the engine down far enough to reach above and set the socket on the upper two bolts then worked the rachet from the back of the tranny using about 2 1/2 or 3 feet of extentions. If the socket is set well it will break loose. Same for installing. One thing that failed to do and had to figure out the hard way was to mark the flywheel before removal so that it could be reinstalled in the same position. If you install it without the "fence" aligned properly your speedometer will be off because there is a sensor at the top of the tranny that reads the "fence" for the electronic speedometer. Make sure you don't damage the sensor during the process.
If I have to replace the rear main seal again I will take out the tranny only. I have been convinced to leave the engine in place. I will also remove the intake manifold (again) and replace the oil separator. I took it off and cleaned it last time but I must have missed where it was plugged since I am still getting oil leakage from the seal and the valve cover cap. Obviously a blow by crankcase pressure problem. I hope that a new separator and a better inspection/cleaning will solve my issue and I won't have to change the rear main seal again. I have invested more effort already than I wanted. But, it is my little girl's car. What can I say?
Bill
Sorry, I didn't answer the question about the dipstick tube. If you mean the one for the tranny pan, yes I removed it. One of the reasons that I dread taking the tranny out again is that the coupling at the tranny for the tube sure feels like it is cross threaded coming off and going on. I didn't like the feel of it but it doesn't leak so I guess it is OK.
240 Dad if the dipstick tube will not come off you can pull the trans. out with it connected. We do it all the time, but the car is on a lift and we have a trans jack. When you change the rear seal make shure you use some sort of seal installation tool or devise something else . IPD does sell that tool but you also may have a problem with the gasket that is in back of the seal housing use the better brown one instead of the red older part .
..Dick K. from Fla.
..Dick K. from Fla.
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Volvo_240_Atari_2600
- Posts: 245
- Joined: 11 February 2007
- Year and Model: 89 245 GL
- Location: Jupiter, Florida
Ahhhhhh
Time time time.... patience patience patience... money money money
These are things that I am serriously pondering right now.
Can I do it myself at home? I don't see why not but its not a very appealing job for me undertake, however I would save a bundle on labor costs... However since Volvofix is located about 125 miles from where I am, maybe we can strike a deal on my RMS and AC since I will be close by, I can kill two birds with one stone maybe.
I'll send volvofix a pm in a few.
Time time time.... patience patience patience... money money money
These are things that I am serriously pondering right now.
Can I do it myself at home? I don't see why not but its not a very appealing job for me undertake, however I would save a bundle on labor costs... However since Volvofix is located about 125 miles from where I am, maybe we can strike a deal on my RMS and AC since I will be close by, I can kill two birds with one stone maybe.
I'll send volvofix a pm in a few.
Thanks for the info, Dick K.
I work with the car on jack stands in the basement so I will take my chances on the dipstick if I have to remove it again.
Do you have a part number for the RMS tool? I searched the IPD site but could not find a tool. When I installed mine I used a little grease and installed it without a tool. It took a few times to get it on just right but I felt like it was even all around. Also, the shaft looked smooth. I used the IPD gasket for the seal carrier and used Indian Head gasket shellac to seal it. It seemed fine until a few months and miles had passed. I am thinking of running some Seafoam through, cleaning off the oil and running some more to see if it still leaks. I really don't want to replace the seal again until I feel like I know what the root cause is.
I work with the car on jack stands in the basement so I will take my chances on the dipstick if I have to remove it again.
Do you have a part number for the RMS tool? I searched the IPD site but could not find a tool. When I installed mine I used a little grease and installed it without a tool. It took a few times to get it on just right but I felt like it was even all around. Also, the shaft looked smooth. I used the IPD gasket for the seal carrier and used Indian Head gasket shellac to seal it. It seemed fine until a few months and miles had passed. I am thinking of running some Seafoam through, cleaning off the oil and running some more to see if it still leaks. I really don't want to replace the seal again until I feel like I know what the root cause is.
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