I am looking to put in some new 4" 2-way speakers in the doors as well as hook up one or two 10" subwoofers in the front of the trunk. I might also get around to replacing the tweeters in the dash, but the 2-way's in the doors should take care of that for the most part.
Anyway, the main problem i am going to have is with the powering for the subs. I have no idea if the stock radio/cassette which is in the car will be able to handle two 10" subwoofers. Not only that, but i dont know a whole lot about amps and how they fit into the picture and whether or not i will need to buy one in order for the subs to function correctly. Which raises another issue: can the radio/cassette handle an amp?
If there are any car stereo experts out there, i would really appreciate it if you could help me out and tell me what kind of equipment is needed to make this happen.
(the speakers in the doors will fit for sure, but i'll have to figure out something to do with the subs... the main problem is just WHAT i need to buy/do to get everything working in the first place)
Thanks
New system for my '93 850
Yes your stock deck can handle a amplifier. If you have some soldering skills you can make an adapter for pre-outs (the instructions are at http://wwww.volvospeed.com/volvo_performance.php under reference). I would be able to build you one if you wish (contact me via PM or E-mail).
What you would do is to plug in the adapter, run a pair of RCA audio cables, 12V power cable and optionally the 12V remote wire that can be built with the special adapter, all of this to the trunk. The remote 12V wire is optional if you wish to turn the amplifier from the stock deck (turning on the deck will remotely turn on the amplifier at the same time). Make all the rest of the connections for power, audio and of course the subs.
If you want me to build you the adapter (professionally unlike the one in the DIY site), I could probably do one for about $10 total. This would include a set of pre-outs w/ the 12V remote wire.
What you would do is to plug in the adapter, run a pair of RCA audio cables, 12V power cable and optionally the 12V remote wire that can be built with the special adapter, all of this to the trunk. The remote 12V wire is optional if you wish to turn the amplifier from the stock deck (turning on the deck will remotely turn on the amplifier at the same time). Make all the rest of the connections for power, audio and of course the subs.
If you want me to build you the adapter (professionally unlike the one in the DIY site), I could probably do one for about $10 total. This would include a set of pre-outs w/ the 12V remote wire.
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Auto
1995 Volvo 850 GLT <- RIP
1995 Volvo 850 GLT <- RIP
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Seventytwo
- Posts: 8
- Joined: 19 July 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location:
Wow, thanks dude. Thats exactly what i needed. My dad is an electical engineer and has TONS of experience with wiring and soldering and even some car audio experience, so im sure he and i could make the adapter think you are speaking of.
Ok... so now that i have that out of the way, i have three questions...
Will i actually need an amp? The deck probably doesnt pump out 200-300 wats needed for the sub, does it...
Also, i bought some replacement speakers for the doors and i want to know if i can simply take out the old and put in the new, or if there is additional wiring or something like that needed?
If i put an amp off the deck and connected the sub in the back, would that effect the wiring or the speakers in the door in any way? Would i need to do any rewiring for them or is the amp/sub system separate?
Thanks a TON for your help!!
Ok... so now that i have that out of the way, i have three questions...
Will i actually need an amp? The deck probably doesnt pump out 200-300 wats needed for the sub, does it...
Also, i bought some replacement speakers for the doors and i want to know if i can simply take out the old and put in the new, or if there is additional wiring or something like that needed?
If i put an amp off the deck and connected the sub in the back, would that effect the wiring or the speakers in the door in any way? Would i need to do any rewiring for them or is the amp/sub system separate?
Thanks a TON for your help!!
Well, the stock deck (depending on model) produces 20-25 Watts of power. Thats not even a RMS (continous power) rating! It won't power your subs very well.
What I was suggesting is that your run an amplifier to only drive the subs, while the stock deck controls the other speakers. The cables that you run to the trunk will only be for the amplifier/sub system. I've never actually done this in the volvo. The only hard part is routing all the wires. Most people I know tap the power from the battery directly (with a fuse for safety), so if your run the wire from lets say the left side or the car (along the doors and into the trunk), run the audio cable on the opposite side, to reduce electrical noise and capacitance issues (this would only apply if you were running tweeters and capacitance cuts high-frequency). This would also apply with the 12V remote wire, run it with the amp's power cable.
EDIT: If you build the adapter, DO NOT use a metal body for the DIN and the RCA jacks! If you do and the connectors touch the metal frame of the car, you will get noise and other wierd problems. Use plastic connectors only!
What I was suggesting is that your run an amplifier to only drive the subs, while the stock deck controls the other speakers. The cables that you run to the trunk will only be for the amplifier/sub system. I've never actually done this in the volvo. The only hard part is routing all the wires. Most people I know tap the power from the battery directly (with a fuse for safety), so if your run the wire from lets say the left side or the car (along the doors and into the trunk), run the audio cable on the opposite side, to reduce electrical noise and capacitance issues (this would only apply if you were running tweeters and capacitance cuts high-frequency). This would also apply with the 12V remote wire, run it with the amp's power cable.
EDIT: If you build the adapter, DO NOT use a metal body for the DIN and the RCA jacks! If you do and the connectors touch the metal frame of the car, you will get noise and other wierd problems. Use plastic connectors only!
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Auto
1995 Volvo 850 GLT <- RIP
1995 Volvo 850 GLT <- RIP
-
VolvoFreak
- Posts: 121
- Joined: 28 February 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location: Central NY State
I have a '93 850glt and have replaced the speakers... The door speakers are actually 5.25", not 4". If you looked on the Crutchfield site, they list them as 4", but that's because the 5.25" ones need a tiny bit of modification to fit 100% while they make a 4" adapter plate. I installed 5.25" Kickers in the front doors with little trouble.Seventytwo wrote:I am looking to put in some new 4" 2-way speakers in the doors
Also, keep in mind that the rear door and deck speakers are 8ohms, but wired in parallel to create a 4ohm load. If you replace the rear deck (or door) speakers, disconnect the other set so that there won't be a load problem.
1993 850glt
219,000+ miles and counting
219,000+ miles and counting
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Seventytwo
- Posts: 8
- Joined: 19 July 2005
- Year and Model:
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Crap... are you kidding me? I definately ordered the four inch ones yesterday. I wonder if i can cancell my order and get my money back and buy different ones?
What the hell, I swear they are four inchers. I'm guessing you removed the bracket the held the speakers in place, then you can install 5.25 ones. Seriously, I would take off the speaker cover and actually measure the speaker diagonally, screw to screw and this is the real measurement.
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Auto
1995 Volvo 850 GLT <- RIP
1995 Volvo 850 GLT <- RIP
-
Seventytwo
- Posts: 8
- Joined: 19 July 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location:
Well i already spent $130 on new door speakers, so i guess they are going to do. That was already a little more than i wanted to spend... but oh well.
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VolvoFreak
- Posts: 121
- Joined: 28 February 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location: Central NY State
I'm serious... I put 5.25" Kicker model K525's in the front doors. If you ordered them from Crutchfield, they will send an adapter plate for them to fit correctly. I believe technically that the openings are for a 133mm speaker (Euro spec) which would be very slightly smaller than 5.25".Seventytwo wrote:Crap... are you kidding me?
1993 850glt
219,000+ miles and counting
219,000+ miles and counting
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Seventytwo
- Posts: 8
- Joined: 19 July 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location:
I ordered the 4" speakers from crutchfield, but they are already being proceesed and are on their way. I dont think that i can cancell the order, get my money back, and then re-order the 5.25" ones, can I?
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