New switch, no start.

volvo2000 · Post by **volvo2000** » 19 Dec 2010, 16:33

it is common...I've heard of similar stories, what everyone else does is start there car in the nutural position.

Post by **holler1** » 19 Dec 2010, 16:44

My 98 V70 AWD starts normally in park with a wire connected from the "service connector" to the blade terminal on the solenoid. I suppose the problem is the PNP but I have no other problems with it.

Post by **RyanGLT** » 19 Dec 2010, 20:22

blade terminal where? I think what I'm going to do is just go get a little momentary switch from radio shack and run the wires under the dash or something so i can hit it without having to get out of the car...

at some point I'll pull the PNP switch and clean the contacts and stretch the springs.

Post by **holler1** » 20 Dec 2010, 08:43

RyanGLT wrote:blade terminal where? I think what I'm going to do is just go get a little momentary switch from radio shack and run the wires under the dash or something so i can hit it without having to get out of the car...

at some point I'll pull the PNP switch and clean the contacts and stretch the springs.

The blade terminal I'm talking about is on the starter solenoid. I don't understand why you need to add a switch. In my car, the "service connector" is only energized when the key is turned to "start". I just leave the wire from service terminal to solenoid permanently connected, and it starts normally, bypassing the routing thru PNP switch. However, it's possible your car has different wiring and you probably want to check some voltages before making this connection.

Post by **RyanGLT** » 20 Dec 2010, 15:03

added a 2 conductor automotive wire from the battery positive and the service connector...got me a momentary "on" switch, ran it into the car... works perfect. I'll fix the real problem next month and hope this works til then.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 20 Dec 2010, 16:38

The service starter connection is before the PNP switch so if the PNP is bad it still won't crank. Since you just changed the ignition switch I would focus on things at that end of the system.

The voltage flow is from the starter switch - through the alarm relay (The output side of the alarm relay is tied to the service starter connection) - to the PNP -and then to the starter solenoid.

..Lee

Post by **RyanGLT** » 20 Dec 2010, 17:15

hmm.

I don't know what else to check (and I don't mean to sound like an ass here, really, I don't.) and I'm not getting replies very quickly either here or on VS so I'm kinda having to do "what works"

It can't be battery cables or it wouldn't start.

Immobilizer fuses are good.

brand new Volvo ignition switch, installed as per directions.

was able to turn alarm off after it sounded - so it seems to me it IS disarming, which means the alarm didn't turn anything off, that I can tell.

Short of that I'm not sure.

Post by **holler1** » 20 Dec 2010, 18:10

RyanGLT wrote:added a 2 conductor automotive wire from the battery positive and the service connector...got me a momentary "on" switch, ran it into the car... works perfect. I'll fix the real problem next month and hope this works til then.

Like Lee, I don't understand how this fixes the problem unless the key switch is still not working. If the key switch is working, it will "send" voltage to the service connector when the key is turned on. Your arrangement is backwards from what I did - I ran a permanent wire from the "service connector" to the solenoid, thus bypassing the PNP switch. A bad PNP switch keeps it from getting to the solenoid, and the bypass wire allows it to get to it. Mine is still working after a year or more.

Post by **RyanGLT** » 20 Dec 2010, 18:15

All I know is this:

When I turn they key to start it, the lights dim/go off, but the starter does not turn.

If I turn the key to "on" (position II) and touch the service connector [through a jumper wire] to the positive, the starter turns and the car starts, runs, and drives normally. I only hold it there long enough to turn the starter, then I disconnect it...just like the ignition switch would if I was turning it to start it.

Post by **holler1** » 20 Dec 2010, 18:22

Well, if it works, it's a temporary fix at least. If you have a voltmeter, I would suggest checking for 12 volts at the service connector (SC) when the key is turned to start (with your temporary switch off). If you do have voltage at the SC, then the key switch is working. If there is no battery voltage at the SC when the key is on start, then you still have a problem either in the key switch or possibly the alarm relay. I wasn't aware of how Lee said the alarm relay is connected.

Sometimes these problems are intermittent. Mine would start for weeks and then fail. It took a long time to figure it out.