coolant dripping from radiator - how to fix?

bobice · Post by **bobice** » 01 Jan 2011, 18:09

I have found that coolant dripping from both ends of my radiator, not much, only need to refill coolant about once a week when the light comes on. See arrow on the picture.

I don't want to replace the radiator yet, any other SAFE way to fix it?

Thanks.

I am thinking to use Bar'S leaks but afraid that it can make the situation worse by clogging other components. Even thought to isolate the radiator by disconnecting the top and lower coolant hose and fill the Bar'S leaks in the radiator only, then after leak stops, flush the radiator with water and then connect - just don't know how long the Bar'S leaks should stay there for the repair process.

Picture:

Post by **JDS60R** » 01 Jan 2011, 18:15

Nope - best to replace it.

bobice · Post by **bobice** » 01 Jan 2011, 18:20

JDS60R wrote:Nope - best to replace it.

What's the reasonable cost? Volvo or aftermarket should be OK?

Post by **JDS60R** » 01 Jan 2011, 18:48

I think the original and after market have been used successfully. I will let others chime in as some after market are made with differing quality.

You can check the vendors above for pricing.

Post by **precopster** » 01 Jan 2011, 19:41

+1 on above Anything that doesn't leak water is better than a leaking one and that means new radiator time.

My wife had a beautiful Volvo '85 760 V6 (240K miles) whose only problem was a leaky radiator and a sagging rooflining.

One day my wife neglected her daily top-up duty and presto we had a massive overheat and a blown head gasket.

I miss her awfully even with the Douvrin V6 :

Post by **thecheat** » 01 Jan 2011, 21:14

I'm trying to put off doing the radiator in mine - my right front tank is leaking at the top. I bought some JB Water Weld and so far so good... money is REAL tight now and I'm trying to buy a little time.

The JB Water Weld is easy enough to mix and apply - you may want to put some latex gloves on as you kneed it with your fingers and it can get messy. Cures mostly in an hour and is hard as a rock the next day. I would say figure out where the leak is and go a couple inches above and below it and buy a new radiator.

I'm looking at ones from Rock Auto for about $150.

Post by **JRL** » 02 Jan 2011, 08:22

You really need to replace it, sooner than later
OEm of course is the better choice but it's VERY expensive
I've used NISSENS radiators with good results, if you shop around you should be able to find one for about $125-$135
(vs. $350+ for a Volvo radiator)!

Post by **t5rrr** » 02 Jan 2011, 19:24

Get an original Volvo radiator, should be $200+ from www.tascaparts.com

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 02 Jan 2011, 19:47

I think I paid around $135.00 for my OEM from Darrell Waltrip back when they shipped parts but that was for a non turbo/ manual transmission that doesn't have the secondary oil coolers for the engine oil or the auto transmission. The Behr or Nissens should both be fine and they are a bit less heavy on the wallet than OEM - in the same price range as I paid even for the turbo models.

You can try the glue goo - I used some epoxy radiator repair stuff on my wifes Jeep and it bought me another 30 days or so before it started to leak again and I bought the new radiator.

...Lee

youngin9494 · Post by **youngin9494** » 10 Feb 2011, 16:14

Hey out of curiosity what did you do? And if replaced the radiator what was the total cost?

I just noticed this on my volvo this afternoon.