Water Pump Failure/Broken TBelt
Hello All...our 95 850 recently had a water pump that fell apart with out notice while we were driving. Of course the tbelt came off and we came to a stop! Looking at the posts, am I assuming(since I replaced the pump and belt) that I have bent valves and that is why it wont start? I timed the cams but had a hard time w/the crank. Does anyone have a pic of what the mark on the flywheel looks like? Thanks for all the great blogs!
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JDS60R
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 3532
- Joined: 21 Feb 2009, 19:52
- Year and Model: 2007 S60R 2016 XC70
- Location: Mount Juliet, TN
- Been thanked: 3 times
Do a compression test. Usually all the intake valves bend.
Here are pics of the crank timing marks.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 90#p118990
Here are pics of the crank timing marks.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 90#p118990
Retired
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JDS60R
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 3532
- Joined: 21 Feb 2009, 19:52
- Year and Model: 2007 S60R 2016 XC70
- Location: Mount Juliet, TN
- Been thanked: 3 times
JD is fine.
Let us know if you need any of the procedures. The head removal can be done without special tools.
I think the consensus is to use only the chemical sealant that Volvo sells between the top and bottom of the head.
You will need new head bolts. It is rare that the valves damage the pistons to the point that they need replacement. Just peen over any sharp edges (rare) that the valves left.
Replace the cam belt and all pulleys and tensioner. Using lower quality parts will hurt you on these jobs. Use genuine Volvo parts purchased at a discount from any of our vendors above. They will serve you well.
Recently someone removed the solid buckets above the valve without labeling them (timely mistake) so remember to do that.
Even if you have hydraulic lifters you should still label them so they go back in the same place.
I would lap the valves while the head is apart. If you need a full head then our vendors above or clearwater is very helpful http://www.cylinder-heads.com/
I thin clearwater only charges $450 for a completely rebuilt head. You may want to compare that to the cost of cleaning ,decking and replacing 10 valves in the head.
Let us know if you need any of the procedures. The head removal can be done without special tools.
I think the consensus is to use only the chemical sealant that Volvo sells between the top and bottom of the head.
You will need new head bolts. It is rare that the valves damage the pistons to the point that they need replacement. Just peen over any sharp edges (rare) that the valves left.
Replace the cam belt and all pulleys and tensioner. Using lower quality parts will hurt you on these jobs. Use genuine Volvo parts purchased at a discount from any of our vendors above. They will serve you well.
Recently someone removed the solid buckets above the valve without labeling them (timely mistake) so remember to do that.
Even if you have hydraulic lifters you should still label them so they go back in the same place.
I would lap the valves while the head is apart. If you need a full head then our vendors above or clearwater is very helpful http://www.cylinder-heads.com/
I thin clearwater only charges $450 for a completely rebuilt head. You may want to compare that to the cost of cleaning ,decking and replacing 10 valves in the head.
Retired
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