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Home Made Short Ram Intake

How to go faster, stop quicker, and turn harder. Chips, exhaust, larger turbos, bigger/slotted/drilled rotors, high performance brake pads, manual boost controllers, performance shocks/struts/springs, airbox mods and more! Also discussion on HID and Xenon lights, aftermarket foglights and other exterior lighting.
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Short Ram Intake
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cjharris1001
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Joined: 30 September 2010
Year and Model: 1997 850 GLT Wagon
Location: Littleton, CO

Re: Home Made Short Ram Intake

Post by cjharris1001 »

That sounds like a horrible idea. No offense. Regardless of "how" a wheel well is not a place for airflow. If you're going for a more "forced induction" on a turbo car, which in of itself can become extremely turbulent, scoop the hood on the drivers side. You can buy kits online, even pre-painted scoops that you can literally sawzall the hood and drop it in. As always, DURABLE heat shield. Sealing off from the engine entirely seems much better than spending all that time and money to plop in a $25 cone filter and some aluminum foil. People! How much heat is being introduced through the stock air box feed? 3mm plastic running past the exhaust manifold?!?!?!? C'mon. Either run some pipes or scoop the hood.

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RobTheModd
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Post by RobTheModd »

Uhhhhhhh Yes its possible with what you want to do... but the question is... do you REALLY want to risk throwing water up into your air intake system....

georgeleedom
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Post by georgeleedom »

@ Alec-
I agree with Rob. Usually, water that finds itself in the air box is too dense to be drawn into the filter, but with the wheel spraying forced water up there I'd be pretty concerned.
I am running a 16t turbo tuned to 17lbs of boost, 3" DP with a 2'5" cat and 2.5" exhaust, as well as 395cc injectors. The iPd copy SRI I made provides more than enough for the engine to breathe. The only thing I suggest you do beyond the SRI is remove the gravel guard from in front of the stock intake. It's at the top right of the radiator and just snaps off.
'99 S70 GLT:
16T turbo, 465cc injectors, iPd tune, iPd coils, Walbro 255LHP fuel pump, Chrysler 4bar regulator, H&R Springs, iPd anti-sway bars, ceramic brakes, strut brace, B&M tranny cooler, Samco hoses, K&N filter, 3"Borla exhaust.

georgeleedom
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Post by georgeleedom »

@cjharris -
The "$25 cone filter" surrounded by "aluminum foil" is one of the best bang for the buck mods you can do to these cars. There is a good video on iPd where Lucky explains the advantages of this system. If you take a look at the Volvo 850/70's that have been well modified, 90% will have an SRI intake. I doubt you'll find many with hood scoops. Any reputable tuning company will tell you a SRI and 3" DP are the two biggest improvements you can and should do. And they are all that is necessary for the car to breathe plenty.
'99 S70 GLT:
16T turbo, 465cc injectors, iPd tune, iPd coils, Walbro 255LHP fuel pump, Chrysler 4bar regulator, H&R Springs, iPd anti-sway bars, ceramic brakes, strut brace, B&M tranny cooler, Samco hoses, K&N filter, 3"Borla exhaust.

claymore
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Post by claymore »

georgeleedom wrote:@cjharris -
The "$25 cone filter" surrounded by "aluminum foil" is one of the best bang for the buck mods you can do to these cars. There is a good video on iPd where Lucky explains the advantages of this system. If you take a look at the Volvo 850/70's that have been well modified, 90% will have an SRI intake. I doubt you'll find many with hood scoops. Any reputable tuning company will tell you a SRI and 3" DP are the two biggest improvements you can and should do. And they are all that is necessary for the car to breathe plenty.
There's nothing wrong with a good hood scoop.
Image

cjharris1001
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Joined: 30 September 2010
Year and Model: 1997 850 GLT Wagon
Location: Littleton, CO

Post by cjharris1001 »

OH! My bad, I thought I was talking to the guy who wanted to duct air in a way other than stock routing (hence providing a solution such as a scoop). I am in no way putting down aftermarket intake, just take the time and think it through. Like claymore.

georgeleedom
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Post by georgeleedom »

Your car has a mitsubishi 13g turbo. It makes a maximum of eight pounds of boost and 14 years ago made about 190 horsepower. You could put as many hood scoops as you want on it and it would still be a slow, heavy car. Stock, Volvo allowed it to breathe as much as it needs. A drop-in K&N filter to the stock intake or a SRI is not going to re-map your ecu or add 10 horsepower. The most a SRI could do - with no other modifications - is make it sound better. Once you start seriously modifying one of these cars to 12 pounds of boost or more, however, it will benefit from a bit more air flow in and out. A 3" downpipe and a cone filter will increase the airflow to the maximum these engines can use.

Start by reading this: http://forums.turbobricks.com/archive/i ... 10961.html
'99 S70 GLT:
16T turbo, 465cc injectors, iPd tune, iPd coils, Walbro 255LHP fuel pump, Chrysler 4bar regulator, H&R Springs, iPd anti-sway bars, ceramic brakes, strut brace, B&M tranny cooler, Samco hoses, K&N filter, 3"Borla exhaust.

cjharris1001
Posts: 4
Joined: 30 September 2010
Year and Model: 1997 850 GLT Wagon
Location: Littleton, CO

Post by cjharris1001 »

A guy asked if he could use a wheel well to duct air. If I'm drawing air from my stock set up through a high-flow air filter of sorts, AM I NOT still allowing heat to be drawn in through Volvo plastic piping? Am I completely wrong to suggest dropping the air temp by ridding of stock airflow all together, rather than just parts?

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

You can buy kits online, even pre-painted scoops that you can literally sawzall the hood and drop it in.
No. That's a terrible idea.
Am I completely wrong to suggest dropping the air temp by ridding of stock airflow all together, rather than just parts?
The intake manifold is up front, not the exhaust. THAT much heat doesn't get drawn into the stock airbox OR the cone filter design if it is in an enclosed box like that. By the time the air is drawn in and pushed through the turbocharger (especially at high amounts of boost, which warms the air) COOL AIR DOESNT MATTER. That's exactly why there's an intercooler up front, and you can buy an even better intercooler if you so desire to reduce the temperature of the air before it enters the cylinders.

As stated, it gives a nice sound and looks cool. There's really no other point.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

The wheel well thing is a valid question too. Look at this one - stock setup. You might have trouble doing it with the Volvo setup though, as there's lots of stuff under the battery tray/airbox location already. On a turbo car, it probably would make no difference over drawing in air through the front of the car; on a non-turbo, it might actually help.
IMG_0114.JPG
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

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