1984 DL Stalling at Stop

Post by **rgk** » 30 Aug 2010, 15:43

I removed the pleated hose per your instructions, and found that someone wise had wrapped electrical tape around the hose, preventing chafing. I replaced the thermostat and the lower radiator hose, and in my tinkering found that the distributor cable had not been making a good connection, as the metal connection was stuffed back into its rubber housing. It was also very corroded. I cleaned the connections, connected the cable properly, and put everything back together. The car started very well, and gave me no issues upon driving. I will still test crank it in cold weather, but it looks right now as if the distributor cable was the issue. I knew it had to be electrical.

Retired MVS Contributor · Post by **Retired MVS Contributor** » 31 Aug 2010, 14:10

rgk wrote:I removed the pleated hose per your instructions, and found that someone wise had wrapped electrical tape around the hose, preventing chafing. I replaced the thermostat and the lower radiator hose, and in my tinkering found that the distributor cable had not been making a good connection, as the metal connection was stuffed back into its rubber housing. It was also very corroded. I cleaned the connections, connected the cable properly, and put everything back together. The car started very well, and gave me no issues upon driving. I will still test crank it in cold weather, but it looks right now as if the distributor cable was the issue. I knew it had to be electrical.

Looks like good news rgk...With regard to the shift problem: is this car a stick shift?...I woulld assume so from your description of the shifting problem...If the clutch is out of adjustment this might happen because it is not being fully disengaged when the pedal is pushed to the floor...This keeps the transmission's input shaft spinning and the sychros cannot synchronize the gears...You will hear a "jamming" noise as you force it into gear when that happens...It could be heat-dependent...The clutch adjuster is a big plastic thumb nut down where the clutch cable connects to the throw-out fork...I don't remember which way to turn it...

Post by **rgk** » 31 Aug 2010, 15:37

No, it's actually an automatic. It seems third gear takes a little longer to engage than the first two. To be honest I haven't seen/heard any problems lately. Then again, I have not driven the wagon all that much, either. But the car seems to be in much better health overall. Thanks for your help.

glowbug · Post by **glowbug** » 02 Sep 2010, 22:40

was just reading this post. I just purchased a 1990 240DL my first of the 200"s I had a 850 previously, so I am not too familiar with them, I love it But I have some what of the same issues, I brought it home and I decided to check the air filter, when doing so I removed the whole air intake tube not realizing to disconect the battery before unpluging the MAF, I started to clead the tube the screen in front of the MAF reinstalled everything and the car ran funny, well I unplugged the batt let the old comp reset itself, and it seemed to run okay but rough idle, I can drive the car but at idle it starts dying, I checked the hoses to the Brake servo it is okay, I did the spray down with the carb cleaner and no leaks, but I did notice when I unplug the MAF it seems to run a bit better not by much, what gives?/? anyone?? I saw the post on "cleaning the idle control " .... where is this located at or any other suggestions. thanks

Post by **billofdurham** » 03 Sep 2010, 11:24

Reading the thread you started on this I understand you have now found the idle control.

Bill.

glowbug · Post by **glowbug** » 03 Sep 2010, 22:16

yes I started one on my year. I found it and did all the cleaning verifing etc. I just recieved my repair manual and I see that there is a micro switch on the throttle which also controls the idle control pump, I will tri to verify if that is causing the issue or just simply the Mass Air,

Jessica · Post by **Jessica** » 03 Apr 2011, 23:32

I have the exact problem with my volvo 740 gl. It started immidietly. Once my engine is warm and I am stopped at a light or stop sign the car will die. It starts right back up. I have replaced evvvvverything it seems. fuel pump, fuel relay, spark plugs, ignition switch, (because it has a hard time starting as well sometimes) IAC valve, crank shaft, cleaned throttle body and replaced throttle switch, battery. Please help! This is NOT good since I rely on my car for work and living in a city makes it difficult to always turn on my hazard lights. Any insight would be helpful.

Where is my RPM sensor located? Or I have read that it could be my radio sensor valve?

1984 DL Stalling at Stop

Re: 1984 DL Stalling at Stop