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USE OEM ONLY for these:

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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JRL
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Re: USE OEM ONLY for these:

Post by JRL »

cn90 wrote:
JRL wrote:...Don't forget strut bearing plates, should be OEM only
Actually Sachs is the OEM : $77/each.
I have had this for 2 years now, no issues.
Actually Bosch is
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP

2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.

sven
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Post by sven »

Hydraulic motor mounts: corteco (made in germany) or dealer.

tjts1
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Post by tjts1 »

I have NON OEM aka non name brand aka made in China aka the cheapest I could find:
strut mounts
bushings
upper engine mount
axles
timing belt and tensioner
coolant
spark plugs
thermostat
plug wires
distributor
brake pads
rotors
radiator hoses
serpentine belt
I'm sure I'm forgetting something.
Ambitious but rubbish

tjts1
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Post by tjts1 »

A list of good and bad brands for each part would be a lot more useful than simply making the blanket statement that you have to use the OEM part. Not everyone knows what the OE part was or why its better than any other given brand. How about warning people about buying anything SCANTECH for example. There is a lot of knowledge on this forum. How about a list of parts that people have had a bad experience with.
Last edited by tjts1 on 17 Apr 2011, 18:09, edited 1 time in total.
Ambitious but rubbish

JRL
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Post by JRL »

Already was, READ the threads
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP

2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.

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kcodyjr
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Post by kcodyjr »

JRL's right, but for once I agree with tjts1 - the point of _this_ thread is to make it all concise and easy to find.

Perhaps we should use this like a rolling discussion about how to write a document, and then when we're satisfied, ask the moderators to remove the discussions that created it, leaving only a nice shiny cheat sheet?

Let us propose two document guidelines; when we say OE we mean Genuine Volvo branded blue-box parts that come from a dealer at cost of arms legs and other precious body parts, and when we say OEM we mean that part directly from the manufacturer... and OEM should always come with the name of that manufacturer and preferably a part number. How's that sound?

+1 on do not buy ANYTHING from ScanTech. In fact, FCP, why don't ya just drop them, really?

Also on the suspect list, avoid hoses from URO, the one in the PCV kit tends to melt.

As an example, and at risk of being a little repetitive, how's this look:

Air filter - OEM is Mann, K&N acceptable, see discussion thread about that.
Oil filter - OEM is Mann, aftermarket must have a check valve; Mahle, Bosch, Mobil1, K&N
Fuel filter - OEM is Bosch
Spark plugs - Genuine Volvo or Bosch Copper
Ignition wire - OEM is Bougicord, avoid any aftermarket
Cap/Rotor - OEM is Bosch
Shocks/struts - OEM is Boge/Sachs, Bilstein and Koni also good
Strut bearings - OEM is Boge/Sachs, or IPD HD
Spring seats - OEM is Boge/Sachs, or IPD HD
Control arms - Genuine Volvo best, non-scantech from FCP sometimes decent
MAF Sensor - OEM is Bosch
ECT Sensor - Genuine Volvo
Thermostat - OEM is Wahler
Oxygen Sensor - Genuine Volvo (is there an OEM exact fit?)
Cam/Crank Seals - Genuine Volvo
Timing and Accessory Belts - OEM is Continental
Timing belt tensioner: OEM is Aisin
Accessory belt tensioner: Genuine Volvo
Timing and Accessory Pulleys: Genuine Volvo
Water pumps: OEM is Aisin, HEPU also reputably good
Wheel bearings: FAG is OEM, or SKF
PCV hoses: Genuine Volvo
Lower engine mounts: Genuine Volvo
Front (belt-side) engine mount: Genuine Volvo
Lower torque mount: Genuine Volvo or IPD HD with slight vibration
Upper main torque mount: Genuine Volvo or IPD HD with slight vibration
Upper rear (firewall) torque mount: Genuine Volvo
Heater core: Behr is OEM, the FCP unit needs washing or its smelly
Rubber hoses: Genuine Volvo or high-grade silicone aftermarket


Worry about form over content, we can argue brands all we like, but let's agree on how to best present this information first. Obviously I've assigned a few things above to Genuine Volvo because I simply don't know the OEM.
Last edited by kcodyjr on 17 Apr 2011, 20:49, edited 2 times in total.
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cn90
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Post by cn90 »

JRL wrote:[..Don't forget strut bearing plates, should be OEM only...
... Actually Bosch is
NOPE, Strut Bearing Plate is made by Sachs-Boge, not Bosch!
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

precopster
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Post by precopster »

OK, OK so let's say you buy a 12-15 year old Volvo for your wife, she does only 4-5K miles a year because the grocery store is just down the road, her mother is only 10 miles away, her sister is five miles away and the local high school/state school/ kindergarten is just around the corner. The car does a long distance drive once in every blue moon because the "other" car is the cherished, newer car that you have lovingly put nothing but Genuine Volvo Parts into all its life.

In your ownership of, say, five years the car will age from 12-15 years of age to 17-20 years at which time most of the leather is cracked, plastics have begun to shift/crack and hoodlining is sagging. Does this sound familiar to anyone?

By using some select non-genuine parts you've saved around $500-$1,000 over five years and you've done only 20K miles.

My point is MOST CAREFULLY SELECTED NON-GENUINE PARTS will double this lifespan. The car is now almost scrap value and time for a new (twelve to fifteen year old) steed.

This is the market that non-genuine parts are aimed at. No-one said they will last as long as OEM and there are perfectly reasonable instances where it is wise to use them.

While I agree this list is great I think that there is a minimum usage/ mileage of the vehicle where using anything else OTHER THAN OEM is plain silly. For example if I use my car to earn a living/get to work and drive it 10-20K miles or more per year I would say opt for OEM no matter what.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design

JRL
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Post by JRL »

cn90 wrote:
JRL wrote:[..Don't forget strut bearing plates, should be OEM only...
... Actually Bosch is
NOPE, Strut Bearing Plate is made by Sachs-Boge, not Bosch!
Again, someone quotes incorrectly
I said nothing about the bearing plates, I don't know who makes them for Volvo
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP

2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.

precopster
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Post by precopster »

JRL: response 21 in the thread, 2nd page about half way down. I thought you were talking about the bearing plates too.

Shame because I just put in the UROs I think from FCP :shock:

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Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design

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