Need help with codes, and free advice

coldax · Post by **coldax** » 25 Apr 2011, 09:45

Hi all...I have a 2000 S70 SE (N/A engine), auto trans with 198,000 miles. Car runs great, but I have the CEL light and it failed inspection. My local mechanic (not dealer) pulled the following codes:
P1671
P0135
P1670
P0442
P1672

Right now we (the mechanic and me), are thinking that replacing the 02 sensor (the first one, before the cat) may be enough the get the CEL light to go off long enough to pass.

In researching these codes I see that they may indicate other issues that would raise the cost of this repair to a point where it may not be worth it to keep the car. Obviously I can't drive a failed car, so I have to decide where my point of pain is.

So I'm really asking for anyone's experience with the codes listed, like what might be invloved (time and parts costs), and your opinions on whether to just move on from the car. If the car doesn't pass it's pretty much worthless. I'm not in a postion to part it out, I'd have to sell it whole for cheap to either a Volvo parts guy (I know a few locals), or if someone wants to take a chance on it and try to fix.

Thanks,
Neal

VolvoTurbo850 · Post by **VolvoTurbo850** » 25 Apr 2011, 10:29

p1671 camshaft reset valve, which controls the CVVT operation. This valve is controlled by oil pressure. and could be set off if you oil runs low too.

P0135 which is your O2 sensor

p1671 is a communication problem with the system

p0442 is the evap system leak detected

p1672 has something to do with the power supply.

Who did the code readings? Maybe you should get it done again. Find a local independent who specializes in Volvo

02 sensor is most likely the easiest fix to pass the emissions. .... the rest sounds minor.

What were the high levels on your emission test CO or H?

I think if your car is operating well and isnt leaking oil you might not be into too much major expense and might be worth putting some money into it.

Post by **hansenjg** » 26 Apr 2011, 07:00

He probably can't pass inspection simply because the Check Engine light is lit. If he's in a location that requires emissions inspection, they won't even do the breathalyzer until the light's off. O2 is good place to start. Do both. Not one. You might try disconnecting battery to clear Check Engine light and see how long it stays off. Might be able to do that right before inspection, pass inspection, and then light returns later. No big woop.

coldax · Post by **coldax** » 26 Apr 2011, 10:07

The code readings were done by the mechanic. In NJ, garages can be certified by the state to perform inspections.
The car failed the primary emission "MIL Command Status. Passed the Seconday Emmissions.

Silver1998 · Post by **Silver1998** » 26 Apr 2011, 10:19

if you disconnect the battery for a few minutes it will reset the computer and the check engine light will go off for a few miles

Post by **jblackburn** » 26 Apr 2011, 10:50

if you disconnect the battery for a few minutes it will reset the computer and the check engine light will go off for a few miles

Won't help it pass inspection. The "ready states" in the computer will read "not ready", which they have to be in order for it to pass inspection.

Before you REPLACE ANYTHING (O2 sensors, etc), start looking for a vacuum leak. There is one, and it may be only in the EVAP system itself.

coldax · Post by **coldax** » 26 Apr 2011, 11:07

I am searching for a local Vovlo specialist (non-dealer) to help me with this. The car is too good to just let go. My regular mechanic is a straight-shooter and trustable, but he doesn't have the deeper Vovlo knowledge I need.

If anyone knows someone who can help me I live in central NJ, (Somerset County), and work up in Franklin Lakes (Bergen County).

Thanks everyone (so far)....I will keep posting as this continues.

coldax · Post by **coldax** » 05 May 2011, 08:17

OK - I went to a Volvo specialist, he said I have these codes:

ECM-2110 Front heated oxygen sensor (HO2S).
ECM-6400 Camshaft reset valve,
ECM-640A Camshaft control, intake
ECM-720A Engine control module (ECM).

He recommends a front Oxygen Sensor ($416) and a Camshaft Solenoid Valve ($253). The total will be $824. He said this *should* kill the CEL light and allow for an inspection pass. However, he warns that the rear Oxygen Sensor may also be an issue but thinks I should wait to repair that only if the CEL light fails to stay off.

Any opinions?

coldax · Post by **coldax** » 05 May 2011, 16:37

I just removed and inspected the cam solenoid, part # 1275578. It did not look clogged or gummed up. Is there a way to test it?

And where exactly is the front Oxygen Sensor? Do I have to get at it from underneath?

falconbrother · Post by **falconbrother** » 05 May 2011, 17:22

Well, one suggestion, do the O2 sensor(s) yourself. Chock the wheels, jack up the car, use jack stands so you don't die, and change those suckers out. It will save you some money. The disconnects can be a pain so, I personally don't have a huge issue with the Bosch generics. Just cut the wires, solder the connections, use heat shrink, and you'll be done with that part. As soon as you find the O2 sensors (easy) spray a little penetrating oil on them. Let that soak while you get your tools together. Then they should come right off. If you use the generics don't go with the easy electrical connectors. They suck. Use solder.

To hold the wires together (any time it's needed) I made a special tool. I had some old house wire that I cut out about 8 inches. I rolled a loop in it and have the two ends come up side by side. I put alligator clips on both sides. With this you take the two wires you need to solder together and hold them together with the clips. Then your hands are free to solder.

When possible it's always better not to use the generics but, I have used them for friends and poor college students and they have always worked.

Oh yea, you have to get the O2 sensors underneath. No big deal. Just make sure the car wont fall. Don't use the factory jack or a cheap jack and crawl under the car. Always use at least one jack stand with the jack. I once used a cinder block and a stout piece of 4x4 to keep from dying under the car. Jack stands are better. Always put the cars weight on it, the give the jack a pump or two to put the weight on both.