Play in FR wheel, also sounds of bad bearing.

von_braun · Post by **von_braun** » 12 Aug 2011, 10:43

So I recently replaced the spring seats and struts on my 98 AWD v70, the previous owner and dealer I bought it from must have had no idea what they were doing because they changed the FR strut, when all that was really wrong was the seat. And it just got worse over time. Now that I have 2 new Blisten struts, the XC90 seats in there im hearing and feeling more problems.

The outer tie rod definitely needs replacing, a lot of play when shifting wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock.
Also im hearing some major "whuring" noises coming from that side starting at about 15 mph which makes me think wheel bearing. (Doesn't sound like bevel gear, my last V70 had that.) Any way to confirm a bad bearing?

Also I am trying to determine if the control arm is bad. There isn't any play at the 12 and 6 posistions, or any left to right travel but one on the bushings (frame side) has a slight tear, the metal shaft slightly visible. Is it just a matter of time before they go?

I'm thinking of replacing both LH and RH outer tie rods first just to get some of the process of elimination done.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Post by **vjaneczko** » 12 Aug 2011, 11:15

Not sure if there's a sure-fire way to tell if the bearing is going; I'd jack up the front of the car and spin each wheel to see if there was a noticable difference between the two.

Just a matter of time?

yep. I replaced the factory original suspension parts on my '97 last summer with the full kit from FCP. Odds are pretty good that if you have the factory orginal parts, they're on their last legs.

If the outer tie rods are going to be replaced, I'd go ahead and do the inners at the same time - I found out the hard way mine were shot and they're not a part of the FCP kit!

von_braun · Post by **von_braun** » 12 Aug 2011, 12:27

OK thanks a lot. Yeah I likely will do the inner rods as well after reading similar stories as yours. Gotta get out of the half assin' it habit.
Is it also a good idea to change both control arms at the same time? If the left looks OK I just want to leave it.

Post by **vjaneczko** » 12 Aug 2011, 15:08

I'd say Yes, especially if you still have the original parts from the factory - they've got the same mileage and wear & tear on them, so they're bound to fail at the same time.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 12 Aug 2011, 15:17

The newer hub style wheel bearings are harder than heck to diagnose. Back in the day there was all kinds of slop in the old style wheel bearings when they went bad but with the newer hubs I have had bad ones with no discernible slop - just a bunch of vibration.

The control arms are your call. If the ball joint and the bushings are OK I would be inclined to just keep them. If you wind up taking the control off from the subframe make sure the axle is at normal ride height (more or less where the center of the hub is lined up with the bottom door seam) before torquing the bolts back down or it will quickly destroy the bushings.

...Lee