Help! I crossed the cables while jumping a dead battery

Guest · Post by **Guest** » 03 Feb 2006, 07:05

Well, I'll be damned, it worked!, the long cranking with pedal to metal that is. Called my neighbor to thank him again for lending the slow charger and ask about jumping from other car while trying again and he asks, "You don't stilll have that thing hooked up do you?" I said, "yea, I do, figuring I want to get it really juiced and he said he never slow-charged a battery more than about a day and a half (mine was connected 3 days). I said, "Oh, that may expalin the gurgling sound I hear when I put my ear next to it. It can't blow up right?" So he says, "Well, if its a Maintenance Free (which is the only kind I ever see anymore) one, of course it can as there is no where for any built-up gas pressure to go since it ain't got no little water refill caps. Gurgling's not good. Disconnect and let her sit for a spell just in case." I let it sit 15 mins. as it was getting dark out and then put it back in the car. Did not hook up a jump from the other car to it because I wanted to confirm if this battery can hack it. He said won't know that for another couple of days even if that's the case.

I put it on key position II for 10 secs. and then went pedal to medal for about 15 secs. cranking. Stopped as I was worried about blowing other components. No deal. Waited about 5 secs. and then cranked again for about 30 seconds and at about that point it seemed like crank was slowing down so I halted. Was about 50F at the time. No dice.

I said, "OK here we go" and after another 5 sec. wait, cranked it again and at about 30 seconds it started slowing down again but I just kept cranking w/PTM and somehere in between 30 and 60 seconds cranking got stronger (didn't think that was possible) she caught and fired up. Sounded like crap for about 15-30 more seconds (but no plumes of white smoke or anything, instaed really rich gas smell exhaust though which is a separate longstanding problem I need to correct, O2 sensors and/or MAF apparently) after backing off the pedal but not all the way off but then returned to a normal idle. Started 2 times after that and started right up like normal with no pedal applied. That, of course, is the good news. (You knew this was coming, right?)

Now the Bad News, she was bucking as I came to stops (decelerating) on the drive in this morning. For any other car people usualy suspect water in gas tank or bad gas but this is a Volvo. Let's see, last ETM cleaning which produces exact same behavior when dirty (w/o removing but from outside, removed accordian hose side only) was around Halloween so that makes 90 days since, yep end Jan beginning of Feb for the next due cleaning, right on schedule. Hope not too much rain this weekennd; well first hope it starts tonight so I can get home... Thanks again MIJ. Hope you Volvo stays healthy. *still tempted to put the ad in the paper and stop torturing myself*

P.S. Sorry for highjacking this thread and because of that ask. 95autoturbo, What "wiring harness" do you mean may need to be replaced if jumper cables ever are crossed accidentally?

95autoturbo · Post by **95autoturbo** » 03 Feb 2006, 16:32

it does not seem to be a problem for you, about the wiring harness that is......

the problem sounded familar as a friends problem when he created an arch from crossing his cables, he replaced everything before he thought to check that his wires were all fried..........when he replaced them everything worked fine, I do not wish anyone to have to go through all that..........took alot of time and patience.

best of luck,

I will be looking forward to finding out that you get your baby running smooth again!

White850Turbo · Post by **White850Turbo** » 03 Feb 2006, 17:03

Just read through this whole thread for the first time. Glad to hear that you got it running, but I thought that I should let you know that the car does not have an ETM. Volvo did not start using ETM's until the 1999 model year. That being said, it is good that you are cleaning the throttle body on a regular basis . I don't think that's really the cause of any problems though.

Next time the car does not want to start, leave the key in pos. II pull up the carpet in the trunk and listen for the whine of the fuel pump. If absent, you've got fuel delivery problems, quite possibly due to a intermittently faulty fuel pump relay. If not, the problem lies elsewhere, possibly an ignition issue or a faulty sensor.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 03 Feb 2006, 19:10

Glad my suggestion worked. The bad "jump" could have damaged some sensitive components that are now affecting the way your car idles...02, MAF, etc. So, drive it for awhile and see if you get any codes (or CEL), etc. If MAF, disconnect it and see if idle straightens out. When my MAF went, disconnecting it worked...plugging it in while the car idled killed the engine every time. Good luck and keep us up to date.

GADAWGFAN · Post by **GADAWGFAN** » 05 Mar 2006, 13:16

For my car that is. Let me first say that this site is awesome. This is a fantastic demonstration of the good things the internet does.

You may recall that back in Jan 06 I crossed the wires on my jumper cables to my battery and caused my 95 Volvo 850 turbo's starter to simply turn over & over without cranking the car. My local mechanic advised that all fuses and the starter reports as operating correctly.

As a result, I need to order a new brain for the car. You advised in a previous post that I may want to search EBAY for the plentiful brains but that I should let you know that I have come to this conclusion so you could diagnose which brain I should purchase.

What information do you need to advise me of the brain I should buy?
Thank you in advance!!!!!

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 05 Mar 2006, 16:08

Glad I checked this site today. Okay....here's how it works. On the ECU there is a white paper glued down to the outside of it. If you look on eBay, some show a picture of it (if it were a book, it would be on the outside binding part), or they may just list the numbers. There are a series of numbers. Most don't matter. However, the last 3 numbers of the very first set of numbers listed on the very top, very left part of that sticker to the left of all of the numbers with codes is what you want to look at.

Although it's a sales site for upgraded ECU's, the following link should help you identify what you will need. Check out the model years and the numbers #602, #628, etc. Hope this helps.
http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.aspx? ... RootID=629

From your model year ('95) and description (turbo), most likely you need either #602 or #628. Look at your own ECU to confirm this before placing an order on eBay...and oh yeah, make sure the guy selling them on eBay has a decent rating...also check his recent transactions. Sometimes people with fairly high ratings for awhile go sour...you want to check this out to make sure you don't get taken.
Good luck!

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 05 Mar 2006, 16:51

I just looked and the only one I see that may be a fit for your car is $300. Wowsa...way to much. You should be able to pick one up for about $100 or so, or maybe even less. If you have no luck after searching eBay, then go to http://www.erievovo.com/ and give them a call. Often, they have these: 1-888-865-8613 Good luck!

GADAWGFAN · Post by **GADAWGFAN** » 06 Mar 2006, 07:14

I looked over my Bosch ECU and didn't find any corresponding numbers as you described. Could I email you .pdf photos of my ECU and and trouble you with assisting me in identifying the numbers that I should use?
I tried to attach two photos but the system would not allow me or I couldn't figure out how to make it work.

Thanks so much!!!!

This is an update.... Instead of troubling you I took your advice and called ErieVolvo, got Al there. He was very helpful and had an exact new Bosch # match in stock. He is shipping it to me for a out the door cost of $255. Thanks again for the help; saved me at least $650!

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 06 Mar 2006, 22:06

Glad you found one....sorry it was that price. Sometimes you get lucky on eBay for about $100, but didn't see one for a '95 turbo there at all. At least with Erie, you're getting stuff they'll stand behind. Let us know how it all works out!