P0132 and P0138 after SAS delete

Post by **Jack Rock** » 14 Aug 2011, 20:42

As the title says, I got these right after doing a SAS delete as outlined here and volvospeed. I followed the instructions and used the pins A32 and A37 and am sure of the direction of the diode. I did use a 1N4001 instead but the only difference is voltage and this one is good for 35V. I did get a little rammy pulling out the hoses under the distributor back to the SAS valve but I dove in deep down there today to check for damaged wires to the 02 sensor but found nothing. I'm wondering if it's because my V70 is very early in the production year which may make me fall in the 850 category as far as the pins go. Can anyone verify this for me and advise how to remedy? My next step will be to remove the diode to see if these codes go away and, of course

, SAS code comes back.

Post by **Jack Rock** » 16 Aug 2011, 20:26

How do I tell what kind of ECU is in my 1998 V70R? Was there a change in the model year?

Post by **erikv11** » 17 Aug 2011, 01:00

Even if it fell into the 850 category, it would still be motronic 4.4 and use the same SAS delete procedure. Every 97 with an air pump has 4.4:

http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/199 ... n1997.html

In fact if you go through all of the Volvo links year-by-year (e.g. http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/199 ... n1998.html), you will see that every 850 or x70 that has an air pump, is motronic 4.4 so SAS delete always works the same way. There should never be a need for the other pin - not sure what Lucky was talking about in the Volvospeed thread.

Post by **jblackburn** » 17 Aug 2011, 07:22

All 1998's use the 4.4.

Post by **Jack Rock** » 17 Aug 2011, 20:38

Thanks guys. So if 850s and x70s with air pumps are all the same ECU then why the difference in tutorials? One says pins A32 and A37, the other says B38 and A32. Which one is right and would the wrong one cause these problems?

pburnhamb · Post by **pburnhamb** » 13 Sep 2011, 13:47

did this last question ever get answered?? which pins are correct for a v70?

caz2773 · Post by **caz2773** » 13 Sep 2011, 14:09

did you leave the sensor at the fan shroud connected to pwr and cap the lines or did you remove the sensor also just checking cause i did it on my 96 and it worked perfect the first time no codes but i read the post about 6 times so i would do it right as far as pins go i dont remember which they are but search mvs for the wiring diagram for your model and verify what pi goes to what cause as you stated pins are biff for the 850 and the 70 series try to find the wiring diagram and itll clear it up

Post by **vjaneczko** » 13 Sep 2011, 14:19

I believe it's the A32 & A37 pins that need to be wired. This should help:

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/14 ... -with-pics

Post by **Jack Rock** » 13 Sep 2011, 14:24

I left the sensor connected. I've removed the diode and found it, gasp, shorted therefore directly shorting pins A32 and A37. This is what caused the 132 and 138 codes. Now I'm back to the original 410 code but luckily I didn't damage anything. This week I'll be reattempting with a new diode and I'm going to stick with pins A32 and A37 as outlined in the volvospeed tutorial, I guess.

Post by **erikv11** » 13 Sep 2011, 16:18

caz2773 wrote:did you leave the sensor at the fan shroud connected to pwr and cap the lines or did you remove the sensor also just checking cause i did it on my 96 and it worked perfect the first time no codes but i read the post about 6 times so i would do it right as far as pins go i dont remember which they are but search mvs for the wiring diagram for your model and verify what pi goes to what cause as you stated pins are biff for the 850 and the 70 series try to find the wiring diagram and itll clear it up

Yes leave the solenoid and relay connected, otherwise no.

The same pins are used for the 850 and 70 series.

A32 and A37.

The whole B38 business traces back to the original thread over at Volvospeed posted by Lucky. He was trying to figure out which ECU signal needed to be set. B38 worked temporarily but it was the wrong guess - it eventually fails.

If you clip into the wiring harness instead of soldering to the ECU, you have less chance of ruining the diode while soldering it. But that's just me - I am not skilled with a soldering iron.