Battery Drain Problem

Madhelpermonkey · Post by **Madhelpermonkey** » 29 Sep 2011, 21:20

Greetings

I have a problem with a 1996 850 non turbo
New battery found DOA after car parked for about 4 weeks
Charged, run and driven for two days with no problems.... then parked for 4 days
battery down again today
Using a multi-meter I found a 1.5 amp draw with ignition off and key out
it drops to .5 amp when I remove fuse #15 labeled "courtesy lamps, diagnostics, door warning lamps, (remote keyless entry), glove box lamp.

What is an expected draw from when car is off?
What should I be looking for?

Car was driven daily before my son went off to college and it was parked. Not sure how long the draw has been ther may have been what killed the battery early this year but it was rather old

I also have a door lock question that may be related...

I recently replaced to drivers door lock assembly and noticed a change in lock behavior. You know when you unlock the drivers door and then turn the key a second time to unlock the whole car...well now all locks unlock on first turn same on locking all locks lock on first turn. The lock assy was bone yards and I am thinking a switch may be stuck in there somewhere... alot to digest

Thank you folks

elchopperfreak · Post by **elchopperfreak** » 29 Sep 2011, 21:54

My S70 had that problem and the dealer under warranty coul not find what it was.
Now, I dont know exactly what solved it, since I changed a few things at a time.
My trunk and gas lock did not work, while searching for the problem I found that a microswitch on the rear drivers door was faulty, randomly, the courtesy lights would be on, but someone solved it by switching them off, still there was a draw. I also found the rear drivers side courtesy light ( next to the Oh my God handle) had a broken switch and could have been the culprit
I disconnected the faulty actuator until I could get a replacement, I also changed the master switch (drivers door) and the central locking system.
I believe it was the faulty switch on the actuator, but could have been any of those four The thing is, I do not have that problem anymore.. Its been a year and the car starts always, even after weeks of being away.

Post by **Jack Rock** » 30 Sep 2011, 00:15

Most likely glove box. It's pretty common, just search around this site and you'll find many sad songs about it.

Madhelpermonkey · Post by **Madhelpermonkey** » 30 Sep 2011, 04:32

Duly noted. I found detailed glove box info on Bay 13 last nite and will tend to that and recheck.

However, I would really like to know what a normal draw is when the car is off and where it goes. I dont want to see shadows when checking the rest of the fuse box for current draw and thinking there are more problems not knowing what is normal and what is not.

Anyone? Anyone? Lee?

Many thanks,

Post by **JDS60R** » 30 Sep 2011, 09:11

usually 150 milliamps or less

Madhelpermonkey · Post by **Madhelpermonkey** » 01 Oct 2011, 07:12

Now if I can only be sure I am reading the meter correctly

Post by **Pauloil** » 01 Oct 2011, 08:24

and using it the right way!! on my $4 meter from harbor freight, I would use the DCA scale and be sure the red plug is in the mA slot before putting one lead on the neg batt post and the other on the neg cable end

Post by **shiloh51933** » 01 Oct 2011, 08:38

Madhelpermonkey wrote:Duly noted. I found detailed glove box info on Bay 13 last nite and will tend to that and recheck.

However, I would really like to know what a normal draw is when the car is off and where it goes. I dont want to see shadows when checking the rest of the fuse box for current draw and thinking there are more problems not knowing what is normal and what is not.

Anyone? Anyone? Lee?

Many thanks,

Did you do the lock at/or around same time as you replaced battery? If you see where I'm going with this then start there. But as mentioned many have had issues with the glove box. I had charging issue with my 96'850GLT but turned out to be bad alty.

Madhelpermonkey · Post by **Madhelpermonkey** » 01 Oct 2011, 09:57

Took out the glovebox bulb and had a good drop in current draw... I was doing it the same way you indicated pauloil so I was good ther. I just get the scales mixed up on the digital meter...my only nalaog was very easy to read range wise.

on my $2.00 harbor freight Meter <had a coupon>I put the red lead in the top slot per instruction and set in on 10A DC and the meter now reads 0.03 where it used to read 0.15

Shiloh...battery was replaced months before the lock but I hear you loud and clear... I think at least there is a stuck microswitch in the assy and I am going to hiythem all with contact cleaner and see if anything changes..if not i may try and pull another one and the bone yard.

Still need to pull the rest of the fuses one by one to see where my 0.03 is going. I have no aligator clips so it as an arduous process measure , set down leads, pull fuse, measure, replace fuse, repeat, repeat, repeat.

Post by **shiloh51933** » 02 Oct 2011, 08:44

Madhelpermonkey wrote:

Still need to pull the rest of the fuses one by one to see where my 0.03 is going. I have no aligator clips so it as an arduous process measure , set down leads, pull fuse, measure, replace fuse, repeat, repeat, repeat.

Atleast your putting the work...if your patient then you'll find it eventually. Lets us know what happens.