2000 S40 Cam Timing

Post by **Choguy03** » 26 Sep 2011, 13:46

Broke a timing belt and bent some valves so I am in the middle of a valve job. Didn't have any issues in the tear down, but I had one question that I am hoping someone can help answer. While removing the cam sprockets, I was able to mark the intake, but the exhaust was impossible since the bolt that hold the sprocket on the cam is inside the sprocket. I am going to be able to get my hands on the Volvo specialty cam holder but I still don't know what the correct procedure will be to replace the exhaust sprocket. I can give more details about my problem if anybody need clarification. Thanks in advance.

volvodoc · Post by **volvodoc** » 28 Sep 2011, 11:42

the vvt hub is a press fit you will need to install tool on the head and on the crank once all lined up install hub and tighten and your done

Post by **Choguy03** » 28 Sep 2011, 12:34

So once the cam holder is in place, I block the crank from moving using that access hole and just align the timing marks and tighten?

Post by **jimmy57** » 28 Sep 2011, 17:10

The crank goes CCW to stop on the lock pin.
Fit exh cam gear/hub onto cam and snug the bolt . Move the gear back and forth to assure it is locked and then loosen the bolt.
If the exh gear has a mark align it with the notch on top plastic cover, if not it goes wherever it goes.
Fit the intake cam where the mark is aligned and barely tighten one of the bolts.
Fit the belt around pulleys and then loosen that one intake cam bolt.
Turn the eccentric tensioner CCW using a 6mm hex key (allen wrench) and take the pointer to the right past the vertical "goalposts" that give the correct tension range and then relax tension b moving the 6mm back CW until the tension is in the correct range and secure the bolt holding the eccentric to 17 ft-lb. Now torque the Exh cam bolt to 88 ft-lb and the intake cam gear bolts to 13 ft-lb.
THe purpose of the overtension in the Volvo procedure is to assure the belt gets tensioned all the way around, the gears may be a bit reluctant to rotate and the gears MUST rotate to get to the correct position. THe cams being locked are placing the cams in correct places and the gears moving as belt slack is taken up assures the final result is spot on cam timing.
Another thing I should mention is to leave one cam bolt out and after the overtension step, look to see that the cam gear has moved so far as to be stopped by the bolt. THe gear should go to the correct place with tight belt without being stopped by bolt. IF it is stopped by bolt the gear needs to be moved one tooth. The marks from factory is often done a little soppily and the mark may be in correct place and be one half tooth off. You may align it in earlier step and it may be off the other tooth away and bind on bolt w/o reaching the correct position. Leave out the one bolt and when first tensioned install the bolt, if it goes you're fine and keep going.

Post by **Choguy03** » 29 Sep 2011, 06:57

Thanks for the detailed info. I should be putting this all back together next weekend, so I will come back and make some comments. I will probably even take some pics too.

Post by **Choguy03** » 06 Oct 2011, 12:15

Got the head back today and the guy at the shop said 8 valves were bent. Going to be doing some cleaning up and other stuff and getting ready to put it all back together this weekend. Again, I will post pictures as I go.

EDIT: 10/7/11

Had 8 bent valves. Replaced them all.

: Rebuilt Head.jpg (38.37 KiB) Viewed 12369 times

Question I have, there is only a rear cam seal on the exhaust cam with the CPS. Anybody know why that is the case? Why is there not one on the intake. I realize there is a plug there, but that was an area with really bad build up of sludge and nasty stuff. Wouldn't a seal there fix that problem?

Post by **Choguy03** » 13 Oct 2011, 12:23

What a nightmare ordering parts has been. Got the head gasket set from Victor Reinz and the front cam seals and head gasket were all wrong. They only asked for engine serial number for fit and they show that the B4204T2 is the same as the B4204T which is clearly not the case. Anyway, sucked it up and got it from the dealer. Then I found it with the correct OEM number on FCP Grouton for half the price. (Dammit) Oh well, I am borrowing the cam timing tool from a local Volvo shop for the weekend so I will have some pictures for you guys. Also, I decided to replace the rear main seal so feel free to follow that progress here.

VR Catalog See part number the same for both.
Volvo Parts Webstore Clearly different part numbers. See number 26 and notice the OEM numbers.

Post by **Choguy03** » 16 Oct 2011, 10:14

I can't find the torque spec for the crankshaft pulley nut? Thanks dudes. 2000 Volvo S40 B4204T2

Post by **Choguy03** » 17 Oct 2011, 07:37

She is finished. There is a small oil leak coming from the turbo, so that will be fixed today. (way to hot after a test drive to mess with that). The engine is quieter then when I picked up the car at 100 k. With 166k on the clock, it is almost like a new engine. Here are a few pictures:

: Timing Spot On

: Volvo Cam Timing Tool

: She is done. Painted the Volvo with silver to make it look sweet.