No Spark!

remark90 · Post by **remark90** » 21 Nov 2011, 09:17

Oh, duh! sorry :-}

remark90 · Post by **remark90** » 23 Nov 2011, 12:17

Ok, so I copied this off of the “Volvo Forums”,
IGNITION CHECKS
BOSCH EZ129K
1) Disconnect coil wire from distributor cap. Put coil wire
next to ground and operate starter motor. If spark is present, check
distributor rotor and cap. If spark is not present, go to next step.
2) Connect voltmeter between ignition coil connector terminal
No. 15 (Red wire) and ground. Turn ignition on. (13.02V) If battery voltage is
not present, check voltage supply to ignition coil. If battery voltage
is present, turn ignition off and go to next step.
3) Connect voltmeter between ignition coil terminal No. 1
(Blue wire) and ground. Operate starter motor. If about .7-1.3 volts
are present, repeat test using new ignition coil. If about .7-1.3 (11.01V)
volts are not present, turn ignition off and go to next step.
4) Disconnect engine speed sensor connector located close to
flywheel. Connect an ohmmeter between sensor terminals. If resistance
is about 200-400 ohms, go to next step and check Camshaft Position
Sensor (CMP) signal. If resistance is not about 200-400 ohms, replace
sensor. (281 ohms)
NOTE: Engine speed sensor is also known as Vehicle Speed Sensor
(VSS) or impulse sensor.
5) Remove intake hose. Bend aside rubber sleeve on CMP
connector. Connect voltmeter between connector terminal No. 2 and
ground. See Fig. 4. Operate starter motor. If voltage reading varies
between 0-5 volts, go to step 7). If voltage reading does not vary (It does.)
between 0-5 volts, go to next step.
6) Connect voltmeter between CMP connector terminal No. 3 and
ground. Turn ignition on. About 10 volts should be present. Turn
ignition off. Connect an ohmmeter between CMP connector terminal No. 1
and ground. Ohmmeter should show about zero ohms. If voltage supply
and ground are okay, repeat test using new CMP. If voltage supply and
ground are not okay, reconnect intake hose and go to step 9).
7) If voltage reading varied between 0-5 volts in step 5),
disconnect power stage connector at ignition coil. Bend back rubber
sleeve on connector. Check ground supply by connecting ohmmeter
between connector terminal No. 1 and ground. See Fig. 5. Ohmmeter
should indicate zero ohms. Check voltage supply by connecting
voltmeter between terminal No. 3 and ground. Turn ignition on. Battery
voltage should be present.

Check power stage control signal by connecting voltmeter
between terminal No. 4 and ground. Operate starter motor. Voltmeter
should indicate .7-1.3 volts. If ground, voltage and control signal
are okay, repeat test using new power stage. If ground connection and (.25 v)
voltage are faulty, check wiring. If control signal is not present, go
to next step and check ECU input and output signals.

I also checked the primary windings: 1.4 ohms, meter set on 20.
Secondary windings: 7.96 ohms, meter set on 20K
I’ve added my readings in parenthesis; I’m thinking that I need a coil, Kent.

remark90 · Post by **remark90** » 28 Nov 2011, 18:29

Ok, so I hope everyone had a good holiday weekend or a good weekend if you’re not from the states

. I wasn’t able to work on the car all weekend but picked up a new coil and my worst fears were confirmed, my problem isn’t the coil

. I’m in a real pickle here and I can’t for the life of me get this figured out. If anyone has any ideas please…..throw them out, I need all the help I can get, Kent.

remark90 · Post by **remark90** » 29 Nov 2011, 07:11

Let me describe my problem another way;
I was driving my car, going 65 mph when all of a sudden the engine turned off, like the key was turned off. Pulled off the road and opened the hood to find my water hose going to heater core came out of the core and I lost all the water out of the car, I had no indications of it overheating or that I was losing water.
I can crank the engine over and it spins just fine, although with no compression, so I know that it is not seized up. Knowing that I ruined the engine, I located one from a wrecking yard and just replaced the original one with a 1999 V70 engine. I have everything all connected and ready to go, but I just can’t get any spark out of the coil. Also as a side note, when I turn on the ignition switch all of my dash lights are illuminated like they should, however they all stay on? Could I have tripped a safety switch or a security switch somewhere on the car?
I feel like I’m right there but that I’m missing something simple, Kent

remark90 · Post by **remark90** » 29 Nov 2011, 11:47

No one has any ideas for me?

remark90 · Post by **remark90** » 01 Dec 2011, 07:14

I there a way to check the ECU?

remark90 · Post by **remark90** » 03 Dec 2011, 11:02

Ok, now for an update. i have replace the crank & cam sensors and still have no spark from the coil

. Is there a way to check the ECU or could there be a fusable link that opended up not letting me get spark to the distributor?

remark90 · Post by **remark90** » 04 Dec 2011, 07:57

What about the knock sensors, if one/both are bad would that prevent spark from the coil?

Mad Dog Tannen · Post by **Mad Dog Tannen** » 04 Dec 2011, 08:45

remark90 wrote:What about the knock sensors, if one/both are bad would that prevent spark from the coil?

No.

remark90 · Post by **remark90** » 12 Dec 2011, 14:21

So I finally gave up and took my car to "Cutting Edge Automotive" in Santa Fe, NM, took them 3 hrs. and they figured it out! Apparently in 1999 Volvo changed how they wired the Crank sensor into the ECU. If I would have crossed the wires instead of matching the colors dam car would have started, who would have known? Oh well at least its running again. A huge thank you to everyone who tried to help, it really was very much appreciated, Kent.