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Instructions w/pics when Changing Timing belt/waterpump/tens

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Instructions w/pics: Changing Timing Belt/Water Pump/Tensioner
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850TurboTurtle
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Post by 850TurboTurtle »

How do you get that timing belt back on under the harmonic balancer?? I can't get it through.

ddpphx
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Post by ddpphx »

Great write-up for sure.

Please help me understand something, however. The write-up doesn't include a step to secure the cam gears in place. How come? If the cam gears cannot rotate and get out of alignment with the crank pulley, then what's the point of aligning the marks in the first place? Why not just take the belt off and put it back on?

Sorry for the ignorance, . . . I think I'm just missing one critical piece of information in order for me to understand and proceed with my own water pump replacement.

Thanks,
Danny
Dan P

88 240DL - almost 200K - dead, but saved my life
98 S70 T5 - 133K - dead - tranny quit
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04 S80 T6 - 254K and going strong

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LamboSE5
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Post by LamboSE5 »

Great writeup - I actually like the "every step" list at the top. Though pictures are so much better.

1) Was this tutorial written for an S70 with Hydraulic Tensioner? I can't seem to find a tut. with a mechanical tensioner latley. I don't know what I'm to be doing yet exactly with the Mech. Tensioner.

2) Marks on camshaft sprockets; Why are there even any marks other than the ones in the metal - from the factory. Why are people putting white out and stuff on'em? People keep saying how the actual marks in the metal are the ones; the true north, the holy grail. If, for example, I cleaned off the white out marks from other people work, I wouldn't be i trouble would I? Just use whatever the 'inscribed' lines and stamps, marks, grooves, protrusion are there for that purpose, or no?

I read a tutorial and feel pretty good. Then I read the comments and - they're helpful! - just some conflicting info and so much info overload I guess.

Thanks for the great write up O.P. and all the comments.

SaintStephen
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Post by SaintStephen »

Thank you to everyone who has added to the help on this list.

I have a few questions:

I am about to change the TB on a 1995 960 Wagon 165k miles. Last TB was changed at 70k.

1: I plan on changing the TB, serpentine belt, TB pulley, TB tensioner, water pump and spark plugs. Anything else I should think about doing at the same time?

2: What are the best parts to use for this job? I see multiple companies listed as OEM for the same part. Is there one company that stands out for making better parts?

3: Do I need to drain the coolant before removing the water pump?

4: If you were going to flush the engine coolant, is there any benefit to doing that while the water pump is removed? I bought the car used and the coolant looks bad.

5: I see some TB kits come with front seals for the crank and cams. Do these need to be replaced?

6: Any suggestions for the best spark plugs?

7: Do you have a supplier for these parts to recommend?

Thanks so much for all the help!

Keep on Truckin'!

precopster
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Post by precopster »

This post may help clear up some of your confusion regarding the part manufacturers of Volvo parts

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=38262
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design

xHeart
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Post by xHeart »

I would take time to do it myself. Use right tools, saving few bucks on tools can be very expensive. I would replace most items on cooling and heating system.
Separate each task, and find specific best practice on MVS. Read stuff from MVS Mavericks, look through their references.
Take a break. You can do it without a dirt in your fingernail or pain in the back.
Clean up after each task, before moving to the next.
Appreciate how it all works, look closer, enjoy it, tell your loved ones about it.
--
Golden-German Shepherd | 2021 XC90 T6 INSCRIPTION (Nexa) | 2020 V60CC (Frska) | 2013A XC90 (Lktra)
Past: Golden Retriever | 2001 V70XC | 1997 Volvo 854 | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240

madspeed50
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Post by madspeed50 »

dont forget to lock the cams in place before teardown. i used zip ties for this. I also did not drain the coolant beforehand, just captured as much as i could once the waterpump was knocked free of the block. If the coolant looks bad, why not flush and replace while your at it. As others have said, just print out the instructions and take your time. I completed mine in about 3 hours with not rushing and a few breaks in between That was my first time.

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rspi
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Post by rspi »

Here are my 960 instructions. I do NOT replace anything that is NOT leaking.

http://www.atthetipwebs.com/technologyi ... g_belt.htm

I use Volvo plugs. I pulled a set of NGK's out of my 960 that ran great. After putting the Volvo plugs back in my mileage went up 3 mpg. Not a lot but more than 10%. If you seen gas at 2 Exxon stations, one had gas for $4.00 per gallon and the other was $3.50, which Exxon would you pump at? No brainer huh?

If the coolant looks bad do flush it or drain it out. Use distilled water, tap water is bad for the cooling system. I would fill and drain 3 times before I do the tb job.

Any parts you get should be better than the old parts on there, however, I trust www.iPdUSA.com and www.FCPEuro.com. Then there is the stealer. Hope all goes well for you.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos

madspeed50
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Post by madspeed50 »

rspi wrote:Not a lot but more than 10%. If you seen gas at 2 Exxon stations, one had gas for $4.00 per gallon and the other was $3.50, which Exxon would you pump at? No brainer huh?
What about Sunoco?


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rspi
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Post by rspi »

Man, I left PA long ago. No Sunoco down here. LOL
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos

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