I will see if the extended warranty the previous owner bought is willing to pay for it, I will have to convince the dealer first that this is the problem. Guess is going to be hard without a low oil pressure light on. Is there any way of knowing if there is a problem without dropping the oil pan? measuring oil pressure would reveal anything?. I mean, if I pay the dealer to remove and check the o-rings to tell the warranty company to pay for it, it will be the same as paying him to fix the whole thing.
I guess if I can't get them to fix it with the warranty, I will try if different oil fix can buy some time, otherwise it seems I will get my hands dirty with oil... it didn't look too bad on VIDA.
Startup noise video. 2004 XC90 2.5t
Update: So I changed the oil for full synthetic 5W30. Before changing the oil I added a bottle of Lubro Moly Engine Flush and let it idle for 10 minutes before draining. The oil came out dark, but nothing terrible. It had been there for about 1500 miles only. What surprised me is that the filter looked a little collapsed (bended inwards I mean) but not very dirty, and in the bottom of the filter housing there there was some sludge. This sludge is sticky, I tried to clean it up with a rug and seafoam, but couldn't get it all out. I'm thinking sludge could be the problem. I have seen sludge (little) in the oil cap, in the dipstick, and in the oil filter housing. It is not much sludge, and is all in parts where the oil is not getting a lot of circulation, thus I don't know if moving parts could be dirty as well. Besides this car had regular oil changes, although probably used for short errands.
Added the new oil, turned the engine back on, and the noise is still there. And a day later, still there. I'm considering giving auto rx a shot, or should I drop the oil pan already and see if the pickup screen is not dirty, failed oil rings, etc. Could the engine get damaged by waiting?. I mean, there is no low oil pressure warning and by the time the engine is revved up the noise is long gone, so I don't think is bad to wait, but advise from people that actually knows better is greatly welcome.
Added the new oil, turned the engine back on, and the noise is still there. And a day later, still there. I'm considering giving auto rx a shot, or should I drop the oil pan already and see if the pickup screen is not dirty, failed oil rings, etc. Could the engine get damaged by waiting?. I mean, there is no low oil pressure warning and by the time the engine is revved up the noise is long gone, so I don't think is bad to wait, but advise from people that actually knows better is greatly welcome.
These engines are picky about oil pressure. Even a slight drop will cause the lifters to tick. Even with a rebuild head, I had lifter tick. I replaced the oil pan o-rings and that has fixed the problem about 85% of the time. Every once in a while, I will get a little tick, but only for a few seconds. The collapsed filter leads me to believe that you are in fact in need of the oil pan pickup needing cleaning and the o-rings changed. While the engine tries to pick up the oil, a partially clogged tube will cause a bit of a vacuum and I think this leads to that crushed filter look. I replaced the oil pan o-rings and cleaned the pickup and am going to be doing an oil change in the next few weeks. I will post my findings about my filter here.
Thanks for the advise, makes a lot of sense.
I took a picture of the oil filter. Now that the oil drained it looks pretty clean and I'm wondering if the filter is collapsed or it got squeezed when they put it in.
I took a picture of the oil filter. Now that the oil drained it looks pretty clean and I'm wondering if the filter is collapsed or it got squeezed when they put it in.
- Collapsed or squeezed?
I don't like threads without an ending, so here is the end of the story.
I took the car to the dealer, and there was a leak because the exhaust manifold gasket was dead. Lucky me, when I bought the car I transferred the extended warranty the previous owner had, and that paid for everything (except for a US$100 deductible, but after seeing the bill I was happy to pay only the deductible). To get the manifold out and change the gasket, you have to remove the turbo, and to remove the turbo you have to remove an almost endless list of stuff (drive shaft, bevel gear, etc), and that was pricey.
I took the car to the dealer, and there was a leak because the exhaust manifold gasket was dead. Lucky me, when I bought the car I transferred the extended warranty the previous owner had, and that paid for everything (except for a US$100 deductible, but after seeing the bill I was happy to pay only the deductible). To get the manifold out and change the gasket, you have to remove the turbo, and to remove the turbo you have to remove an almost endless list of stuff (drive shaft, bevel gear, etc), and that was pricey.
Hi,
I am driving volvo xc70 2003 which has same engine (2.5T turbo). Also, I have same noise at the start up and am wondering replacing gasket at the turbo might help to cure the problem. It was the case with you, pls let me know to try it out.
Thanks
I am driving volvo xc70 2003 which has same engine (2.5T turbo). Also, I have same noise at the start up and am wondering replacing gasket at the turbo might help to cure the problem. It was the case with you, pls let me know to try it out.
Thanks
In my case it was the exhaust manifold gasket. I have seen another threads with similar symptoms and the problems was also the exhaust manifold gasket.
I don't think it is the gasket at the turbo, but I'm no expert...
I don't think it is the gasket at the turbo, but I'm no expert...
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